Routes in Voodoo Area

Follow cracks up R-wards to a bold finish up the R arete of the gully face.

Start: Start in the gully around L of 'Argyle Street' at a grassy patch.

The beautiful, but "all too short" thin crack starting well up the face.

Start: Start just L of 'No More Gaps'.

A short hard layback to L arete (rest). Move back R and up seam.

Start: From L end of ledge at half-height, near orange patch.

Climb straight up the orange wall.

Start: Below middle of orange patch.

Head diagonally R from 'Argyle Street' to the crack.

Start: Just R of 'Argyle Street'.

Up seam, step L at top into main crack and finish L of wide crack above.

Start: 1m R of crack in centre of outcrop.

Climb to ledge from the R, then into thin crack to the R. Up and then back L.

Start: On bushy ledge 3m up, at R end of crag.

Start with left moves off left corner of big boulder in the gully about 20 metres left of New Image. Climb to left of big horizontal then follow the gear to ledge near big guano patch. (25 metres) 14

3 metres left of guano stain climb through roof weakness and steep wall on good pro but tricky moves. Take care of loose boulders at your feet on belay ledge (20 metres to generous ledge) 18

From ledge take easy moves off right side of ledge moving up through slab with limited but sane protection. Tip toe on clean holds through black moss and head up stripe of clean rock saving a purple cam for an essential pocket. Belay past dead tree at base of shallow corner (35 metres) 15

Climb blocky corner left of roof. Easy climbing but careful of rock in places. (25 metres) 10

Rap off perfect bollard at back of pinnacle (5 metres). Walk off up to plateau and right towards lookout road, follow road to central gully track, bring shoes. Or walk and rap down to Pan Grove. (Antur is welsh for adventure)

The little wall L of Undergraduate. Climb the pleasant grey slab direct up to the ledge below the wall. Pull up on good holds to veer slightly L to a large flat hold, then straight up to double rings (lower-off).

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose).

Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground.

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line, marked "NL".

The direct line up the clean wall, joining FL at the end of it's traverse. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 5'9"?

From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro).

Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug.

Follow the arching line to the end of the roof. A reachy clip and a tricky crux make way for an easy finish up 3m R of 'New Image'

Start: At the base of the obvious line snaking up the crag.

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

As for Hidden Secrets but take the easier start of Je Suis un Legend instead of the tricky boulder.

Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake.

Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete.

Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets'

Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'.

Another bouldery start, this one with little to no gear. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'. Good luck.

Start: 4m L of small chimney.

Boulder up to horizontal break (a few grades harder). Those concerned about their ankles may prefer the chimney or rib on the right until you can join traverse line. Traverse L until crack, up broken line, overlap, wall to rap station on ledge.

Start: 2m L of short chimney.

Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station.

Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'.

Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off.

Superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day. From the 1978 Lockwood guide: "Necky as anything, committing and sparsely protected." Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.

Shares the start of 'Glory Road', but goes straight up from half-height instead of escaping off left into the mossy ramble.

Start at L end of ledge, up to a couple of large pockets at 3m. Traverse left then boldy up to a horizontal break. From this ledge continue straight up without escaping left.

As for SP to pockets, then move R into 'Rats Alley'. Stay with this for 10m, then head straight up brushed steak (where 'Rats Alley' moves L) past bolt and hollow flake.

Start: As for 'Striptease Parade'.

A thin, almost-eliminate slab.

Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.

Start: On the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.

Up 'Rats Alley' for 15 or so metres, then scoot R (across Streetwise) to a welcome bolt. Keep your head together and climb straight up to the top.

Start: As for 'Rats Alley'.

Climb straight up to the bolt on Blyth Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.

Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.

Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.

Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.

"For historical reasons only..."

Start: Near 'Nymph'.

Original start was to bridge up chimney then swing onto R face with no gear! For some reason these days people clip the bolt on Crystal Vision and go L to the flake - still a bit bold. Up flake till it ends and move L and up to an exciting exit. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.

Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Bring medium cams to make an anchor for belaying. Re-Bolted 2024

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

Struggle up black crack, past overhang, then grey corner to ledge on R. Climb wall above to summit, it's possible to traverse off R to rap anchor on 'Chinese Algebra'.

Start: L of blank orange wall is a black crack.

‘The archetypical wall of impossible-looking rounds’ – Louise Shepherd guide. Very sustained. Up arête 1m right of PV to prominent undercling, then reach to sloper. Crux moving past this to a small horizontal slot (bombproof double RPs), then onwards up slope-riddled slab. Traverse right to First Blood anchor.

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

Move up and L to arete. Climb just R of arete and finish at rap anchor (or continue to the top in a 48m pitch).

Start: A few metres R of arete facing Caslte Crag.

Climb straight up middle of wall past 2 carrots.

Start: As for 'Chinese Algebra'.

Not the line with the carrot bolts just R of CA.

Girdle of 'Voodoo Buttress'.

Start: As for CA.

1. 25m (21) Up CA to ledge.

2. 30m (21) Traverse R until below Wasp flake. Up and R into 'Wurlitzer' to ledge.

3. 45m (21) Continue R on ledge, at end move up to 10m, then move R to arete and up to top.

Up crack to bulge, step R into 'Voodoo' (at kink). Head up (tricky) and L into easy crack.

Start: 1m L of 'Voodoo' is a crack.

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

2. 20m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings - 60m to ground or 30m to P1 anchors.

Overhanging L arete next to pitch 3 of Voodoo.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

Roof R of pitch 3 of 'Voodoo'.

Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'.

A harder variant start to Mother's Son. Simon Mentz has done a more direct version finishing up the crack instead of moving R into Mother's Son (still joins Mother's Son at the ledge and they share the same top half)

Start: 2m L of Mother's Son.

Tricky to start but soon gets easier.

Straight up pocketed corner to flake. Take LH fork through the bulge.

Start: At base of diagonal line uphill from 'Voodoo'.

Half way up 'Wasp' there is a large flake leading right. Follow this to join 'Warped'.

Climb the prominent R-leaning diagonal line to join 'Wurlitzer' below roof. Up to roof, then break L, turn roof and up face.

Start: As for Wasp.

Starts a few metres right of Wasp and Warped and a few metres L of Wurlitzer. Carefully up the slabby start for a couple of body lengths to gain the diagonal crack of Warped that comes in from the left. Up another few metres until able to lean out left from the Warped line to clip a bolt and move onto the wall. Up past the bolt then straight up over the little flake/roof to finish up the line/groove finish just right of Wasp’s finish.

Up then L into line below roof. Around this on R, then up to rap-anchor.

Start: 10m R of Wasp.

You might get to smell it yourself if you fall off this one...

Start: 4m L of 'Sound Chaser'.

Up to and through overhang. Join original and finish as for that. This is 22 in Lou's guide.

Start: 2m L of original.

Up short flake. Move L, then up and L more to bush. Up steep loose crack above. Heading straight up wall after flake at start is 19.

Start: Under R end of grey prow uphill of Wasp.

Up SC, then move R into seam (bolt).

Start: As for 'Sound Chaser'.

Boulder up on slopes and crimpers, till you can traverse L for 4m and into obvious corner (Spider LH Variant).

Start: Start 3m L of 'Spider'.

Up black nose of buttress, passing steepening at top on L.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

Was the original route.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

Up face (tricky to place RPs, then bolt) to ledge. Step R and up crack.

Start: A couple metres R of 'Spider'.

Start: As for original.

Swing L (hard), up seam to break, finish up SD.

Start: At 'Blockwork Orange'.

Follow 'Artifact' for 5 metres to the ledge. Then step down and right and climb wall left of arete.

Start: Start as for 'Artifact'.

Up leaning corner to roof, then exit L (at break).

Start: Up the gully from previous routes and short corner crack.

As for original to break, then climb through roof past bolt.

Start: As for BO.

Short crack through overlap.

Start: 5m R of BO.

Up crack.

Start: Opposite 'Sound Chaser' (on other side of gully).

A thin crack to an overhanging corner on the L side of the gully. Pass roof on the L.

Up the wall and thin crack R of WOS to a bulge. Move R to shallow capped corner then exit L.

R of SWCF is a R-leaning crack beginning from a hand traverse. Runners were placed with a stick.

Up little groove then R a bit and straight up on little incuts.

Start: Opposite WOS at the L side of a mossy wall.

Up and L to a stance, then back R and up crack to wide ledge. Finish up steep wall.

Up prominent crack near gum (L of white streak) to big ledge. Finish over roof.

Start: R of DOV is a gnarly dead gum.

Up wall, the head R to ledge. Move R again then up.

Start: Just L of 2nd gully is a wall with orange and black rock.

Start off the flake then trend L to short L-facing corner. Up this then pass roof above just R of centre.

Start: About 2/3rds of the way up the 2nd gully is a flake resting against the wall.

R-facing corner 2m R of CTT's to ledge, then straight up.

Some people just can't resist a new route.

Short line around left of the main face, at the right end of the side facing Grotto Wall. Hard finish.

Committing crux with less-than-the-best gear. Left-facing corner at the left end of the cliff, just right of a callitris tree growing adjacent to the wall. Finish up gentle wall to bolt belay.

Lovely rock and cute pro. Starts about 4m down and right of Pointy End. Climb up to and past the prominent white streak. Step left and up the line to the Pointy End bolts.

Climb straight up to the left side of the bulge immediately right of Stretching the Point. A runner in that climb protects a blind step right around the bulge. Up the ramp a little then up to the headwall. Up the headwall, starting on the right side then moving left into the centre. Step around left to the Pointy End bolts. Originally finished up right of the headwall before cleaning.

The thin line starting 1m or so left of Zabriskie. Easily top-roped from the Zabriskie anchor

Very enjoyable with an interesting mix of styles. Starts 8m or so right of Making The Point.

1. 22m 16 Delicately right past BR and into the left-leaning groove. Follow this the straight up shallow flake-corner and wall to the prominent left-facing corner. Belay anchor at top of corner.

2. 10m 18 Straight up to the short wide crack just below the overhang. Move right through the overhang. Have a sit-down on the lip then move up to anchor. Best to belay and abseil rather than lower as the edges are very rough.

Quite committing. Starts 3m right of Zabriskie Delicately past BR (hard to see from the ground) and step right into the line which bounds the right side of the steep wall. Follow the line to the ledge and walk left to the Zabriskie bolts.

Another nice little exercise. Climb the clean white slab (tiny RPs and cams) about 3m right of Tipping Point and continue up the steep orange nose. Finish up and left to the Zabriskie bolts.

Good direct climb to top of cliff. Could be split into two pitches if so desired. Starts right of Point Blanc and left of a short left-facing corner further right.

Climb a faint vertical bulge in the cliffline and continue up the obvious short crack/groove. Pass the little rectangular roof on the right and bustle your way over the overhang above that guards the upper part of the cliff. Veer slightly right to finish.

To descend, scramble down the ridge towards camp then find a bollard to make a short rap into the gully towards the Voodoo buttress (sling needed).

About two-thirds of the way from the left on the roadside face is an orange corner which faces left and is low down. Easiest approach is behind the Death Row Pinnacle and walk left along a terrace to its left end.

Scramble up and slightly left and climb orange corner. Above the corner there's a little bulge with a stack of loose blocks offering a foothold. Instead move left onto the steep, juggy wall and up past the bulge then step back right into the obvious crack.

Start 2 metres right of Point The Bone, below a crack.

Climb crack. Where it peters out at bulge step up right. Go up bulging wall. Above, move right at a guano patch on to orange buttress.

Up cracks, through the bulge at 10 metres at it's widest point and keep going, tending maybe a little right.

Start: Start about 12 metres right of Point Of 'No Return' at the best-looking crack system near the right side of the wall.

Gets more atmospheric the higher you go. Takes the north ridge of Deadpoint Wall. Start below the U-shaped gully behind Death Row Pinnacle.

1. 40m Climb clean rock on left side of the usually-dry little waterfall. Continue easily up and left to base of ridge.

2. 20m Up to short orange corner, step right onto prow of ridge, and up easily to big ledge.

3. 15m Bridge line 2m left of steep orange corner, and continue up nice wall on left side of the ridge to the big terrace.

Compact yellow face left of pine.

Wall just right of pine and move left above flakes to finish straight up above tree.

A leftwards diagonal on the right wall of the gully.

Overhanging crack right of 'Triple Nipple'.

Twin seams up the grey nose.

An attractive line that used to be graded a very tough 17! The right-hand, shallow corner just right of Outlaw Oats. Chains on top.

The chimney to off width corner to thin crack right of OE with a flake on the left wall. Belay at abseil station.