Routes in Upper Gully

Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot".

Start as for No Room For Mistakes and hand traverse right into overhung line past piton.

Crack with overhung start 8 metres left of 'Trampled Underfoot'.

Useless. Twin cracks 5 metres left of Trampled Underfoot.

Awesome major corner that sees few ascents. Large gear is needed.

Start: Start below the corner forming the left side of the 'Slabocide' wall.

1. 15m (18) Wide roof and up to belay in gully.

2. 15m (18) Traverse out right across wall and go up.

A "convenient bundle of fun" taking in bits of a few other routes.

Start: Normally started as for "Wishful Thinking" but can also be started from the base of "Trampled Underfoot", below a fixed hange a few metres right of that climb.

From gully, pull onto wall and up vertical crack to major horizontal. Clip FH then hard moves up and right past another FH. Onwards past some natural gear and another bolt up higher.

Serious route which appears to require a long reach and has a suspect grade. Rarely, if ever repeated and you would probably need blinkers to avoid clipping the bolts on "Flesh-Eating Pixies".

Start below block jammed in the horizontal break right of "Trampled Underfoot". This block is a metre or two right of the first fixed hanger of "Flesh-Eating Pixies".

Move up from jammed block to an undercling (looks desperate) then veer left, crossing "Flesh-Eating Pixies" into flake.

Looks quite dramatic. The bolts are carrots and the first is pretty rusty.

Start 1 metre right of "A Touch Of The Vapours".

Awkward moves lead right past 2 bolts and a fixed wire.

This is probably now the first bit of Flesh-Eating Pixies.

The left-hand line up wall directly below 'Slabocide'.

A good roof - the crackline just R of the arete. You can also take the flake to the R at the same grade.

Originally raved about but the crux section has to fight to avoid easier climbing. However now that the bees are gone (as of Apr 2023) this route might just be worth the hype it was originally given. Usually done as one pitch.

Start in the gully below the prominent orange wall.

1. 14m (17) Start at the left of two right-facing corners: up this for 7 metres before veering left to platform (alternatively take the central line starting up a seam in the grey mossy wall).

2. 25m (22) From the ledge, start a few metres left of the old beehive at a fist sized pocket, then step right (can also be done directly up from the beehive - neither option has great gear). A big span left brings you to a large pocket, then up to a horizontal break. Aim for a pocket towards the top of the dirty groove, going straight up (ignoring easier climbing on either side).

Superb, intricate and sustained climbing. Originally done as two pitches but best done in a single pitch.

Start at the R-facing corner 2 metres right of "Grand Central".

Up the right-facing corner to ledge. From the ledge, delicately move over bulge. Clip bolt and zoom through a peg (natural pros available) to an easier ground. Stay R of the crack to avoid loose rock.

... a good crack too.

Bridge up the chimney right of Fever Pitch and pull onto the wall below a short crack. Steeply up crack to good holds. More hard moves lead up to and around flake, then continue up crack and face.

Scary start.

Approach via gully and chimney right of Fever Pitch. The arete right of Not Just A Pretty face from top of approach chimney.

Middle of face opposite 'Flash Gordon' and left of 'Haphazard'.

Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 7 meters to ledge, then climb wall directly with tricky moves at the top.

Climb the ramp just left of Haphazard for 5 meters, step right and climb the face 2 meters left of the arete to the top.

The overhanging, cracked arete up the gully from Lunatic and across gully north of "Flash Gordon".

This is in the hanging gully between Lunatic and Blue Hawaii and is approached by scrambling down from Haphazard. Lefthand of two lines left of the original start to 'Lunatic', finishing up arete.

Seam just right of Psychotic in hanging gully left of the arete of 'Lunatic' in gully. Continue up exciting face moves. A runner in 'Psychotic' protects crux.

Thin crack below left arete of 'Future Past' pillar. From ledge above crack go up arete, finishing on right.

Go up to and around an overhang. From ledge above, finish up 'Future Past'.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Future Past'.

Cut loose on big block about 2 metres right of 'The Last Resort'. Pass right end of small cave and go straight up to finish just left of arete.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Future Past'

Climb right-hand side of pillar and traverse left above overhang to small cave. Step out and go straight up to top.

Quite pleasant really.

Start up Future Past and climb directly up, keeping about 2 metres right of the blunt arete, to the top.

Start up Yesterday’s Rooster. Just past first bolt on YR step left under small roof. Blast straight up wall past another bolt, and tending left at the top.

Up and left to top of corner from which BH escapes. Up and right past BR to thin line right of arete, almost back into BH below final triangular roof. Step left and up past BR to double ring bolt belay and rap.

Start: Start: As for 'Blue Hawaii'.

Bring two bolt-plates.

Excellent, steep fun. Solid at the grade with fiddly gear on the crux.

Start on the left edge of the pillar, as for "Yesterday's Rooster".

Gain short hanging corner, fiddle with pro then move right and follow middle of buttress.

Direct start up dodgy rock 2m R of original is actually quite a bit easier. Just toproped, I'll put 2 bolts in it, or feel free to put them in yourself, I don't mind!

Wonderful sustained and steep. A megaclassic.

Start about 10m right of 'Blue Hawaii' and 2m left of 'Yesterday'.

Follow an inverted staircase flake into a hanging gully. Step R and continue pass two FHs along the weakness to the overlap (peg). Crank through the steeper section on jugs to the double ring bolt anchor.

Provided the logical start to 'Lunatic' but it's now just a footnote as a link from 'Lunatic' into That's 'Fantastic'.

Follow Lunatic to the bolt. Continue for another 3 metres then step right and go up arete into That's Fantastic.

Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains. 27 in both current guidebooks.

Avoids the crux of "Yesterday" via a fine alternative finish.

Start: as for "Yesterday".

Take Yesterday to bulge, traverse left along break then up the spectacular arete.

Probably awesome so we'll chuck a few stars at it and see what everyone thinks. To be distinguished from "That's Fantastic" which also starts up "Yesterday" and moves left.

Start: As for 'Yesterday'.

Up Yesterday to the crux, then traverse left and up through little roof, past fixed wire.

A powerful, overhanging line.

Place high nut with a stick and boulder into line from either side. Up the line which veers right at rooflet. Move left for final few moves to rings.

Excellent sustained face that adds a hard start to 'Yesterday Direct'.

Start just right of Yesterday and climb past a fixed hanger to join 'Yesterday Direct', which continues up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

A good route to try if Ingvar's variant is out of reach.

Step off the boulder about 8m up the hill from 'Yesterday', traverse left 3m to a seam. Up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

Link Yesterday Direct into Use No Chooks.

Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and straight up past several more FHs. Start about 12 metres right of Yesterday

A few desperate bouldery moves.

Face 10 metres right of Use No Chooks.

Overhanging crack 3 metres right of the start of 'Genug'.

Step left across void and diagonal up to jugs. Back right, trying to climb arete and not walk off left.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Vicious Rumours'

Avoidable but good - small groove with an odd fin down from Parsley etc. Doesn't look overprotected.

Line 1 metre left of 'Parsley'.

Crack on left arete, step left around small roof and up.

Seam just right of Parsley. Start at Rosemary then tend left.

Next crack right of Sage with good holds around bulge.

Nice crack up righthand side of wall. Looks suspiciously harder than 16, especially the topout.

Left arete of major buttress. Lost In The Ozone takes the right arete. Wouldn't be too bad with a bit of traffic.

Start up shallow corner-flake and up, keeping just right of arete. The crux section is avoidable.

Start: Start 10 metres left of the chimney of "The Protege".

1. 30m (22) Climb crack then grooves to hanging crack then out over roof to belay.

2. 35m (22) Swing onto right face of arete and finish steeply up it.

Start below middle of orange wall 15 metres left of Lost In The Ozone corner and finish left of diagonal crack.

A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.

Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top.