Routes in Beechworth Area

The curving corner crack on the right of the little crag (known locally as Bum Rock) on the western slopes of Mt Jack northeast of Myrtleford.

A really cool route if you can do the start. The wall 2m right of Ache To Touch You. A very hard start leads to jugs.

At small gum tree go straight up finger crack.

Bridge the crack and slip up the arete past 2 BRs.

Climb the hand-crack on the back of the boulder, then pull past some thin moves protected by a FH.

Arete right of Sister Crack. Up to horizontal, then crux moves to clip the only BR.

4m right of Bridge Work is a clean curving crack.

Has a nice committing crux that has seen more than one fall! On the next tier below the climbs described above, is a cracked face topped by a bulge. Climb the broken crack system and clip a BR before pulling the root-bulge.

Nice moves up the pockets/scoops to the gripping finger crack. Dodgy rock.

Excellent and somewhat sustained climbing on the obvious half-height horizontal flake. At the end of the flake, head left for a couple of moves (crux - take RPs), then straight up into dyke city. 1 BR.

Stunning crack, both in appearance and difficulty!

The hard one. 2 BRs plus wires.

The arete that forms the right edge of the chimney to the left of Rhinocerous Breath

This route starts in the middle of the main face at a weakness with heaps of dyke rock. Climb the slab to the rightward sickle crack and follow it to the top. 3 BRs.

The easier one. 2 BRs plus wires.

The first route as you walk down. Climb the face left of the arete to the horizontal crack. Swing right on the face above the slab and up to the top. Has 5 BRs or so, take a few small cams as well.

Start as for Rocky Road, only blast your way straight up the middle of the face passing 6 BRs on your way to glory!

Start at bottom of block. Up vertical broken crack to fist jam, over ledge and follow line to horizontal. Go left and up.

Start as for Falcon's Lair, move left past the two scoops then up the face past 3 BRs to join Falcon's Lair.

Start as for Rocky Road. Follow the leftward crack to the top on bad gear.

Right of Matinee. The 75 degree left-leaning finger-crack (which is of excellent quality). Surmount ledge, move right, and step down slightly for thin moves up arete. According to the guidebook this had a bolt but there's no sign of it now.

Up centre of the face to diagonal crack. Pull through then up face past 5 BRs.

The low angled black slab behind the big dead tree. Excellent climbing past 3 BRs leads to huge jugs at the horizontal/ledge (2x#1 SLCDs). Continue past another BR to the top.

The obvious weakness on the left arete. No real protection.

Right side of face. Pull past BR to thin ledge, traverse right and over small roof. Climb the arete past 4 BRs.

The very coarse finger crack to the left of Apple Scroll. Heads right under bulges and up. Tape up!

Hard and dangerous. Crank up on a few good holds (RB) to stance on right. Take a deep breath and traverse left (crux - fiddly RPs) to seam/gastons. Keep going left and up until you hit the top.

Start off the big block at the base of the chimney. Ordinary gear leads to a FH and then a ledge (another FH). Continue up the left arete passing 3 FHs to the top.

Aptly named. On the next separate cliff-line is a black slab capped by a big flattish boulder. This route starts on the right-hand end at all the edges and just left of the chossy chimney. 3 BRs lead to a crack (#1 SLCD) in the overhang, pull through this and head on up.

Flake system on high side of green chasm. Worthwhile.

To the R of On The Edge is a beautiful clean finger crack. Climb this to the ledge and then boldly mount the face above.

The left corner/roof.

The crack 1m right of Danish Crack. Up the left side of the top block which may be loose.

3m right of Geranium Crack. The widening to off-width crack.

Start as for Shadowline to first BR, out to second BR and continue up arete past 3rd BR. Small wires at the end (BD nuts size 2-3).

The crack/corner, exiting over the top of the talon.

Left of Scooter. From under overhang, move to arete, onto face and up.

The first closed corner you come across. A hard start leads to good pockets and good gear. Avoid the chossy direct finish by moving left over the slab at the end of the corner to join The Tourist Route.

Opposite Talon. Arete and face.

The obvious big layback flake. Fun laybacking leads to a pleasant doddle up the slab (1 FH). Don't fall while clipping.

Arete left of Spoonerism.

Duck through the cave and this is the next nice crack along. Easy moves out of the cave lead to a no hands rest. Continue up the thin corner (crux).

The obvious wide chimney that has a zig in it.

Forty metres right of the left-hand end of the cliff at a leftward diagonal line becoming a flake/chimney.

1. 35m. Move left on the boulder, pull onto the ledge and up leftward ramp to the flake/chimney.

2. 20m. Scramble to the top.

Overhanging off-width crack to the right of Thomas Flares.

Follow crack up until bolts travel to the right and up to 2BB.

Starts at the main corner of the left-hand end of the cliff and about 50m left of The Lighthouse Of Alexandria.

1. 20m. The corner to a cave behind some large blocks.

2. 20m. The crack to the ledge. Instead of scrambling off, continue to the top via the steep crack that starts on the little ledge above.

The crack 2m right of straight up, which angles slightly right. Jamming from thin hands to fist up higher. Start 1m left of fused crack on jug, then up to diagonal crack for pro. Anchors at top for lower off.

Small pro in crack line to the right of the off-width crack. Go left of centre.

The first bolted route. Up the black wall past a FH to big jugs at 4m. Wander up and left placing whatever gear you can find, just don't fall at the top!

The fist-crack left of the blunt arete, then mantle the flake and up.

Follow the crack all the way past a thrutchy crux. Take 2 hangers for the anchor.

Horrible. The major ugly looking crack. A lot harder than it looks and not recommended.

The crack around right of Comic Relief.

Another awful route. Start up flake/crack that joins The Venus Fly Trap at about 4m. Up as for The Venus Fly Trap. Also not recommended.

Small seam right of G String. Bad pro to start leading to nice flakes.

Probably the best route at Mt Pilot. The finger-crack/flake a few metres L of Chicken Salad Roll.

The right end of the face, trending right past a FH to a horizontal (pro). Then go left to the steep finger crack and up.

The obvious corner crack which takes great protection.

The chimney. Bring BIG gear, otherwise go on an adventure and use the chockstones for pro.

Not recommended. The first crack around the corner from Bobbin.

Solid for the grade. Up the wall a couple of metres left of Grendel past two BRs. Small cam protects the finish.

Climb Chicken Salad Roll to 3rd BR. Hard move out left to horizontal crack (takes gear), and up to jugs.

Channel your inner chough as you clear leaf litter from the back of this crack to find great cam placements, and maybe the buried treasure of hexes that fit a bit too perfectly.

Easy beginner trad for learning to place and clean cams, with the odd hex placement. Follow the large crack splitting the wall up to the tree.

The next big crack 2m L of Beechworth Bakery. Can be protected fairly well.

The next crack right of Crack One.

Left side of face. Thin crack to off-balance ledge, stem to gain small alcove and a couple of jams to exit.

The tiny seam to the left of Chicken Salad Roll. Very technical. Uses Chicken Salad Roll's BRs and a few RPs, exit up The Bakery Connection.

Climb the thin crack left of Breakfast At The Ponderosa on natural gear to a bolt near the top.

Mixed trad starting in the crack chimney to the left of sticky date and joining at the 3rd bolt of sticky date with an obvious step across. Nice stances in the crack feature.

Probably the first route here. Excellent protection. The obvious finger/hand crack through a small overhang.

Off-width crack forming right side of John's Arete to ceiling bulge, then turn bulge by face on right. You can clip the BRs on John's Arete until some natural pro, then run it out to the top.

20m downhill and left (SW) of Western Exposure is an obvious crack line.

Towards the L end of the wall there is a crack which ends at about half height. Up this and then continue on up the slab.

The finger crack to the huge horizontal slot and roof, continue up the headwall. Gear was pre-paced above the roof on the FFA.

Wires plus 1 BR. The right hand route.

Climb up a ramp past 2 BRs and then mount the headwall above past one more BR.

The wall to the left of Obelisk. Feel free to bolt it.

The clean black water streak in the centre of the slab.

The first small slab between two cracks. Start in centre, go left to a big edge, up over bulge, then right to join Straight Up.

As the name implies, straight up.

On the main slab is an obvious white water streak. Follow this over the steepening and past some dubious flakes. No protection!

The short crack at the left end of the Flake Off wall is a "muck around boulder problem".

About 10m past stumper jumper and 5m before the fatties is an obvious offwidth/squeeze chimney which goes up about 10m and then trends right, finishing with a short fist size crack. Would require very large pro to lead.

The line on the far left of the slab. Straight up through the slipperiness.

The centre line. Start as for Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then follow the line of little vertical seams/cracks. A direct start was done using the trees and a big edge at a grade of 21, but it's not known if the trees are still there.

Pockets don't get any better than these! Start up Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then traverse right until you get to the line of pockets.

The cool-looking right-hand line on suspect-looking (but surprisingly solid) rock. Straight up past 3RB's to double ring lower-off

The left-hand line is also not too bad. Good gear down low. 1 FH to rings.