Routes in Gorgeous Crag

Start under sharp triangular break. Utilise the horizontal crack (watch for lizards) and climb up using some funky moves and 2 fixed hangers til you reach a vertical crack starting at the chockstone. Finish at two fixed hangers left of the crack

up from the right to the ledge and then to the top.

The pure trad start to Stoneage Surgery. Start 2m left of SS using the obvious large dog-leg crack. Climb up onto ledge, traversing right to join SS at the chockstone. Finish as per SS

Start 2m right of TR 2, at the section of the cave underneath a decent vertical crack line. Boulder through the reachy start, past the vertical crack and head up, finishing at bolts to the LEFT of the regrowing tree stump

CAUTION - Lots of loose rocks and chossy spots especially at the top

Either traverse right from TR 2 or use a more powerful direct start, this route follows the system of cracks that heads up to finish at bolts to the right of the regrowing tree stump. Gear is adequate though rock quality is poor so discretion should be exercised when choosing placements.

start on the right, go left under the roof, up to the ledge and then climb to the top.

up the arete, top rope or trad with very few placements on the first section

Fun little kiddie climb sticking to the left of the Slab. Use double U-bolts set back from the edge.

Can be used as a Abseil

Nice kiddie climb with a good sense of exposure.

Start same as Moss Monster. Once onto middle ledge following the right side of the slab and then curve back to the anchors

For now use the same anchors as Moss Monster and in the future this climb may have it's own anchors

Can be used for Abseiling.

Start 1m right of Lion Heart and head straight up to finish at the U bolt anchors in the middle of the protruding block

Still in development

Line of bolts starting right of boulder. Shared lower offs with "My Brother In Chalk".

Line of bolts left of boulder. Shared lower offs with "Lion Heart".

Start the same as Leaping Lizards but after the 3rd hanger head into the gully, clipping the 5th and 6th hangers from MBIC. After this stem till you top out at the tree

There are future plans to better define the end of this route with it's own hangers.

Solid start, then a cruzy middle to a committing finish

Start 1m right of Stoneage Surgery following bolts straight up through a committing transition to the block. Finish at two FH's on right hand side.

Start 1m to the right of TR 1 in between the vertical crack lines. Head straight up, finishing on anchors to the right of the protruding block. Previously a TR problem, now bolted.

Climb the start of My Brother in Chalk and clip the 3rd bolt with a long runner, then traverse right to join Lion Heart. An interesting traverse and makes slightly more sustained climbing.

The high line. Can have a wet section 2-3 days after rain.

Follow the ramp and corner up to the right. Can have a wet section 2-3 days after rain.

Link up: traverse as for Fing Ringer to the inverted-triangle notch, then up the edges on Big Moose.

Follow crack line from right to left, topping out the same for "Ape Index". A great challenge for the foot work

Pretty much straight up to the higher top out through the middle of Fing Ringer.

Sit start, directly up from the small cave

traverse from the furthest right part of blackberry wall to the tree about 7m left.

Go straight up on the furthest right wall.

traverse right and up a bit from the slightly bigger cave

Up to the big block sticking out of the boulder and then top out.

up the obvious diagonal crack to top out.

start on the left cracked wall and finish same as big cams and stuff

Compact sit start, laybacking to the left with hands using the 45deg crack line. Head up working the cracks and left side of the little face. Topout with a walk off to your left.

Sitting start under cave lookers right of sunshine wall. Traverse along rim of cave