Routes in Ben Cairn

A slippery awkward groove to a tough exit.

Start: Start at the far left (south) end of the lower cliff.

The line with a gross start, then continue past a BR and some fixed tat which, if it's even there, will definitely be shite. (happy if another bolts goes in this-mikl law)

Start: Start 3m R of TA.

Kept clean by traffic, and good climbing. The obvious thing would be to squeeze a new route next to this and call it Pakenham In. (happy if another bolts goes in this-mikl law)

Start: Start 5m R of PH at the lowest part of the slab.

Heave onto slab then past 2 bolts. Belay from 2 fixed hangers

Start: Start 5m up R from PU on mossy ledges.

The line with nice moves into the corner crack.

Start: R of MBC there's a gully: start just R of this.

Kept clean by traffic, no doubt because it has the only orthodox holds on the entire crag!

Start: Start 3m R of BCJ.

If you lead it you may as well leave the rope on the ground. But it is certainly a worthwhile toprope problem, and quite clean.

Start: Start 2m R of FatW.

Kept clean by traffic, and worth doing.

Start: Start immediately R of EA.

Reclaimed by moss.

Start: Start as for F.

A nice little crack to start with a bold run out to finish.

This climb has been upgraded to 13 in the 2011 guide book "Rockclimbs Around Melbourne" by Glenn Tempest. If you dont know how to jam, its most likely considerably harder.

Very reachy onto slab, then follow the ramp diagonally L, across Plum Jamb, to join Raspberry Ripple. Doesn't look great...but it is kept clean by traffic.

Start: Start just L of 'Protagonist'.

Technical and slippery. Trad gear can be used before the 1st bolt.

Mantle into the R-facing corner, then into the jam crack. Quite tricky at the grade, and kept clean by traffic.

Start: Start 3m R of P.

Do the mantle of PitS, then step R and over the technical bulge via the faint seam, with a single BR (new in 2004, take a bracket). Kept clean by traffic.

Start: Start as for PitS.

Up the seam for 5m to a ledge. Desperately boulder over bulge past BR, then more easily. Currently well coated by moss, although the initial seam was partially cleaned in Jan '09 if anyone would like to continue the work.

Start: Just R of PitS a slightly lower slab starts. Start under the left side of this, about 5m down R from PitS.

Up the faint closed seam past 2 BRs then step R and follow 'Fiction' past it's crux and final 2 BRs. Never sent, and now quite mossy.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Fiction'.

Simply superb, but at the crux you have to make something out of nothing. Unfortunately a chipped foothold appeared on the crux bulge about a year after the FA; ironically for many subsequent ascentionists it is in a poor location and doesn't get used. Rebolted 2016

Start: Start 5m R of 'Gnipples', under the only clean streak up this face.

"The hardest thing I climbed in the 80s": Law. Originally given 26, but "more like 28 now that no one climbs slabs". Brushed and rebolted 2016. One of the best hard lines near melbourne.

Start: Start 2m R of F.

Named after an old novel about French soldiers in Algeria, this route was the subject of a minor hoax in the 80s ... see Chockstone for the sordid details. It was then long neglected and moss had returned, but it's actually well worthwhile. Cleaning efforts have recommenced, as of Jan '09 it's about 90% clean. Please bring a brush and help finish the job. Rebolted with FH 2016.

Start: Start as for 'Skating Away'.

Perhaps the best route at the crag, and kept nicely clean by traffic. Start under the appealing clean finger cracks 4m R of RaD. When the cracks disappear, move onto the slab and up to a comfortable stance. A ringbolt above protects delicate slab moves, after which the climbing becomes easier.

Now reclaimed by moss.

Start: Start at the tree which is about 6m above the start of 'Skating Away' and just to the right.

Reclaimed by moss.

Start: Start as for GY.

Reclaimed by moss. Definitely worth a scrub, the steepest route here

Start: Start 4m R of GY.

Up the blank corner to a hold then L around arete and up the slab. The bolts and chipped hold are the work of a previous party.

Start: Start just R of NF.

The appallingly grungy mossy corner, starting off the terrace.

Start: Start 4m R of NF.

As for GS to the bolt then take the L side of the slab to a short corner then more slabbing.

Start: Start as for GS.

Named "Friends in Low Places" as it was originally led without the bolt on the top crux corner due to the drill bit snapping whilst hand drilling. Therefore was first climbed with a couple of Friends in the break a very long way below!

Quite good, and kept clean by traffic.

Start: Start 3m R and down from the terrace, and 2m L of JBC.

Alternate, easer finish to do the bottom grooves of GS, Start as per GS to the bolt, then traverse right to the corner, ether climb the block or layback the cracks to the top

Has been reclaimed by moss which makes a groundfall off the initial corner a distinct possibility.

Start: Start under the major dirty L-facing corner.

Really just another way of doing 'Bluffing It'.

Start: Start 1m R of JBC.

Up JBC to big detached block then step R. BR, then the crack across the block onto slab.

Start: Start as for JBC.

The filthy R side of the block including a yucky chimney. Slab finish.

Start: Start 1m R of WotE.

For an onsite climb it was a little run out, Mike law agrees

Kept clean by traffic.

Start: Start at the lowest point of the base of the R end of the crag.

The bolted section is kept clean by traffic but the upper slab is in poor condition as most parties seem to finish up PF. Please pitch in with some brushing so that this route can keep it's independent finish.

Start: Start as for PF.

Groove to ledge and continue onwards to join DD. A variant is to step L at the ledge and up a short slab into DD.

Start: Start 3m R of PF.

An enjoyable direct finish for No Steel. The combination is worth a star.

From the finishing ledge of No Steel, instead of stepping left into Digit Dancer, head straight up past a good cam placement and 3 FH.

A pleasant outing with good protection.

Start as for Cracker Barrel. Up for 6m. Step left to short face and move up 1m. Step left again into the base of a ramp with twin cracks running all the way to the top.

This route is far longer and offers better climbing than Raspberry Ripple, but for some unknown reason has been neglected so much that the moss has returned.

Start: Start under the small detached flake which is 8m up R from the start of PF.

Dirty - because it was never cleaned!

Start: Start as for CB.

Another very worthwhile long easy line. Melbourne's low grade climbers should forgo their 27th repeat of Raspberry Ripple and instead salvage this line by putting in some brushing effort.

Start: Start as for CB.

Some really good moves, though the pro may concern some.

Start: Start 2m R of CB.

Better and bolder than RT. Balance up slab, teeter left, then up the arete of RT.

Start: Start 3m R of RT.

Very worthwhile climbing, but some reasonably serious fall potential at times.

Start: Start about 5m up R from TAG. It's the first route you get to if walking down the north end of the crag.

Probably quite a bit harder.

Start: Start as for TAG.

Describes anyone who's new routed at this crag!

Start: Start 10m R of the far R end of the main cliff, where a tree leans against a slab.