Nodes in Waterfall Dome

The Waterfall dome is a large dome, 60m in height and runs about 200m at the base. So far, all the routes on the dome are bolted slabs from grade 18 to 24+. There is potential for more desperate smearing at even harder grades up nice dark streaks.

To Get There:

From the Donger head west along the road for about 2km. You will go through 2 (most likely) open gates. The third gate will be closed, if it is not, close it after you go through. You are now on Private Property.

Follow the slashed road through the waist high grass to the south. The road will stay close to the fence and after about 700m there will be a gate in the fence to your left. Go through the gate and close it behind you. This gate is to remain closed. Once you go through the gate or over the fence you are back on Beulah.

Follow the dual track trail that has been slashed along the fence. You will head slowly downhill to another gate that will most likely be open, and can remain open. Continue along the trail and after a couple hundred metres you will be at the parking area for the Waterfall Dome.

To Get There:

From the Donger head west along the road for about 2km. You will go through 2 (most likely) open gates. The third gate will be closed, if it is not, close it after you go through. You are now on Private Property.

Follow the slashed road through the waist high grass to the south. The road will stay close to the fence and after about 700m there will be a gate in the fence to your left. Go through the gate and close it behind you. This gate is to remain closed. Once you go through the gate or over the fence you are back on Beulah.

When you go through the gate and start following the fence line down hill to the Waterfall Dome itself, up the hill to your left is the Waterfall Dome North area. Hop the fence at almost any point and head up hill to find lots of boulders with great potential.

Start on the crumbly rock, and up onto overhanging flake to top. Can be lead if you have a bunch of big-bros, otherwise top-rope. Gear anchor required.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

From break up slopey ramp to top out

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

A 'wall' of 4 boulders, starting at large prominent boulder on the right, with 'Don't really care', then following left to include 'Angsty, the emotionally advanced Tiny Teddy', the classic 'King of the Wagon', and warmups on 'Mosquito Coil' and 'Citronella'.

Rightmost boulder in wall, down the gap. Starts below small tree, up the crack to top out. Sketchy spotting.

Starts at top of walk-in gap, just left of way up to top of boulder. Sit Start, up and left to top out.

Starts middle of top wall, 1m left of 'Love/Hate', direct to top out on jugs.

Leftmost problem on top section of the wall, start at undercling on flake, left of 'Are you qualified', left and up to top out.

First problem on lower boulder section. Sit start on 2 low sidepulls. Pull to rail then high, sharp crimp on right, before moving powerfully left to good ball and top out.

Starting start using big edge left of [NOUN] Head. Hit up to crimp then out to same finish as NH.

Straight up the slab on the corner left of Better With Lunch.

Starts 2m right of large crack on lower boulders (Mosquito Coil). Desperate hands up arete to top out.

Sit start on the crack in the lower section of the wall, just beside 'King of the Wagon'. Layback to the top out, jugs the whole way.

Standing start, undercling on flake left of 'Mosquito Coil'. Traverse right, then up the crack to top out finish.

Awkward layback sit start left of Citronella. Onto crimps then straight through onto jugs in vertical crack top top out.

Link start of Not My Undies into Citronella traverse.

a good selection of boulders downhill (north) of Natural Selection boulder.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Up offwidth crack.

Currently there is 3 sport routes on the dome, fully bolted with lower off anchors. All routes have potential for a 2nd pitch and all have the second pitch anchor installed already, they just require the bolts in between.

Line of bolts up water streak through white vertical rock to chain anchor.

2010 Red point project

In between "On the Shoulders of Giants" and "Tribute to Dangles". Start on top of the large block wedged between a stump and the dome. Follow line of bolts for 32 m to a ledge. Can just make it to the ground with stretch of a 60m rope. Belayer, watch the end of the rope when lowering.

Follow 8 bolts up steep improbable looking line of thin crimps. Chain anchor.

2009 Red point route

Starts up a boulder at the base of the cliff about 8 meters to the right of 'Tribute to dangles'.

A thin start leads to a great slab with holds!! A great hands free rest before the top crux, traverse low and over to a great slab jug (don't get suckered up to the hanging flake) Beware of loose flake at the top out left.

Up arete, tops out onto the ledge where the climbs start from

Directly under the 2011 project.

Located 30m before the 2013 Red Point Route on the walking track up to it.

SDS on the crimp rail on left hand-side of left-leaning seam/thin crack. Boulder up following crack to flake, and traverse left off flake to finish the route.

Any part of the main boulder itself is "in", the detached blocks on the ground are "out".

This area encompasses any boulder near the Waterfall Dome. At present this is a large crescent shaped area that wraps around the base of the dome.

This standalone rock is on the river slab to you left as you cross the creek.

Sit down on blocks, then pull on flakes

Access to Beulah is closed.

Up short face on very thin crimps

Up the nice arete.

These very large boulders are clumped together in a nice threesome only minutes from the parking area for the Waterfall Dome. Head up towards the dome and you are sure to pass these on your right. The most impressive steep face will be facing you and has no holds unfortunately, unless you are a mutant maybe.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Stand on the separated piece of rock, then reach up and mantle over the top. Watch the fall if you don't make it!!

Stand start up the challenging slab starting on the block, this is also the eaisest way off the boulder!

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the 'Three Stooges' boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder. Routes are listed from downhill to uphill.

Big holds and mantle, just don't look down!

Two moves, not much to it, a lower start off two very poor slopers awaits

Crap slab

Yet another slab

another slab

As the name suggests this is the best of the four routes on this slab. delicate start, eases at top, watch the stinging nettles on the topout.

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.

Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.

Start on the easy finger crack, then to increasingly worse slopers. Directly under the 'Sickle of death project' and could be linked into it.

Access to Beulah is closed.

This would probably go at V0 if you had the balls. Death drop on both sides!

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

Access to Beulah is closed.

It is actually two very large boulders leaning on each other. It is possible to scrabble up the thin gully and bridge to the top to access the chains but it is a little committing.

Walk then climb up progressively steeper slab.

2012 Red point route

On the west side of Saturday Boulder, a large chunk of the boulder has fallen off a the opening of a cave created by the boulders leaning against each other. Where it split has left a nice clean arete to climb.

Sit start on the left end of the arete and heel hook your way up and right along the arete. When you get to the boulder the arete is leaning against mantel to finish.

Start below the highest part of the 'Know Heel Hooking You Sissy' traverse. Mantle.