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Bicheno
Bicheno is a small town on the east coast of Tasmania with a population of approximately 850 people. The town is primarily a fishing port and a beach resort. |
Whalers Lookout
Whalers Lookout is the northern of the two rocky hills in Bicheno. |
Whalers Lookout |
25
★ Moby Dick
On the first buttress climb boldly up thin flake to a peg in the break, small cam also, then hard over bulge. |
22
★ Qui Quegs Coffin
On the main area 50 metres further south along the trail, climb the hanging groove. |
Lookout Rock
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Lookout Rock |
22
Life Threatening Blood Clot
On the way up the track you'll pass a blank looking wall with a horizontal break at half height. Climb the centre of the wall via two poor #5 Rocks, and finish with trepidation. |
20
★ Economy Class Syndrome
On the west face of Lookout Rock itself is a L facing flake crack. Layback up this to a move R onto the slab. Up to a ledge and tree, then climb the final wall to the top. |
26
★★ Deep Vein Thrombosis
On the R side of the north face, up the gully to the L of Economy Class Syndrome is a thin finger crack, with hard to place wires at the top. |
17
★ Corn Flakes
This climb is located on the path, up to the lookout, on the L. There is a wall with a Flake/crack on the R side. Follow this to top. No recording of any previous ascent. |
The Blowhole Area
There are some great problems on the freestanding boulders and walls around the blowhole. |
The Blowhole Area |
Whale Boulder
South facing slightly overhanging wall |
The Blowhole Area Whale Boulder |
V6
★★ Sperm Whale
Sitstart on low hold, hit arete to the left and up |
V10
★ Right Whale
Project - Same start as Sperm Whale, blast high and right to side pull-ish feature and then up. |
V3
★★ Minke Whale
Sit - Up on Flakes |
V1
Narwhale
Sit start. Undercling and up |
V1
★ Blue Whale
Stand - Flakes to high topout. SDS is a project |
V5
★★ Humpback Arete
Sit - Classic steep arete to slopey topout on right hand end of boulder. |
The Blowhole Area |
Old Man / Warm Up boulders
Boulders near the blowhole, further south of the Whale Boulder. |
The Blowhole Area Old Man / Warm Up boulders |
Old Man Boulder
Directly across from the Whale boulder |
V3
Flake to groove
SDS |
V4
Pockets
SDS. Pull through the shallow pockets to top out. |
On the back of this boulder
On the back of this boulder |
V1
Flake
SDS |
Warmup Boulder
The long face behind the previous boulder |
V0
Juggy face
SDS |
V0
Quartz jugs
SDS |
V0
Quartz arete
SDS |
V0
Buldge
SDS - Layback off the buldge, pull up through the ridge. |
V0
Layback
SDS - Layback on the crack. |
V1
★ Arete
SDS 1 handed off the round arete hold, up through jugs. Can be campused for an extra grade. |
V2
★ Ironing board
About 3m right of Arete, find the large horizontal overhanging flake. Start underneath, work your way around and up to top out. |
The Blowhole Area |
Blowhole Walls
There are some great vertical to slightly overhanging square cut walls below and south of the Blowhole. Most if not all of these problems depend on a low tide and swell. |
The Blowhole Area Blowhole Walls |
V3
V3 a
Stand start. Up the right side of the arete. Potential for sit start |
V2
V2
Stand start. |
V4
V3/4 - 1
SDS |
V4
V4
SDS |
VB
VE a
Stand |
VB
VE b
Stand |
V3
V3 b
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Project
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V4
V3/4 a
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V4
V3/4 b
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
VB
VE c
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
VB
VE d
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V3
V3 c
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V4
V3/4 c
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V3
V3 e
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Next is around the corner into the next little zawn, below Blowhole Boulder
Next is around the corner into the next little zawn, below Blowhole Boulder |
V3
V2/3
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V1
V1
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V?
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V5
There she blows
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
This is directly under Blowhole Boulder:
This is directly under Blowhole Boulder: |
V0
V0
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V1
V1 A
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
V1
V1 B
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
The Blowhole Area |
Blowhole Boulder
The main freestanding boulder directly next to the blowhole |
The Blowhole Area Blowhole Boulder |
V8
★★ Blow Job
Sit start on crimps and then up, classic Tassie test piece. Stand start goes at around V5 from highest crimp and the big flake in the middle of the face. |
V2
★★ Blown Away
On the backside of the boulder climb the left arete (ocean side) to the top. A great problem but scary at the start |
V0
★ There She Blows
Again on the backside of the boulder. Start in the scoop in the middle of the face trend right to jugs and follow jug rail traverse to summit. |
The Blowhole Area |
Exploding Crystals Boulders
Three freestanding boulders. Rock isn't as good as some of the other boulders and tends to be a bit gravelly. These three free standing boulders are about 40m north of the Blowhole. |
The Blowhole Area Exploding Crystals Boulders |
V2
★ Bohemian Crystals
Sit start on arete. Left hand in good low jug side pull and right hand on slopey face. Climb up and left. A spotter is nice |
V0
★ Slab 1
Left most slab towards the back then orange top out. |
V0
★ Slab 2
Easiest slab up the middle of the boulder, between My Brown Dog and Slab 1 |
VB
★ Hot Dog
Stand start the arete to the left of My Brown Dog, east and fun slab climbing |
V2
★ My Brown Dog
Sitstart and up crack |
VB
★ Mantlepiece Stand
Stand start on the huge step and mantle the top of the boulder |
Mantlepiece Sit
Sit start the mantlepiece and mantle as for the stand |
V2
★ Dark Crystal
Sit start on two mediocre crimps with your right foot on the good shelf like protrusion, pull up and mantle the left end of the boulder |
VB
★ Skeksis
Stand start and mantle straight up |
VB
★ Mystics
Stand start and mantle towards the right hand side of the boulder |
V2
V2
Stand start 2m L of V5 on sloppers and mantle over top |
V5
★★★ V5
V5, sit start about 1.5 metres left of left cleft. mantle onto the boulder from slopers. |
V8
★ Left Cleft
Start on slopey protrusions at the base of the left cleft. Slap up and left to the lip and fight upwards. |
V3
★★ High Tide
Sit start side pulling on the furthest left side pull/crack feature to the right of Left Cleft. Top out straight up. |
V1
★ Low Tide
Sit start with left hand on good flake and punch up |
V4
★ Drowned
Around right arete of boulder High Tide is on, pull on two slopey edges stand starting and mantle the boulder. |
The Blowhole Area |
Mushroom Boulder
Obvious mushroom-like looking boulder, problem faces inland. |
The Blowhole Area Mushroom Boulder |
V7
★ The Mushroom
SDS - Pull up using crack and anything else, gain sloppy arete and then topout. |
V3
Not Much-room
Sit start at next arete right using good flake with foot on good hold. Stand up to jugs and move slightly left to mantle |
The Blowhole Area |
Crab Boulders
Mostly slabby to vertical walls. |
The Blowhole Area Crab Boulders |
V5
★ Hermit Crab
Heel hook start then up hanging arete. (SDS) |
VB
★ Easy Slab
(Stand) |
V2
★ Mud Crab
(SDS) |
VB
★ VE
(Stand) |
VB
North Side VE
The next few problems are on the northern side of the boulders. |
V2
V2 Arete
Arete in the centre. (SDS) |
V2
★★ Giant Crab
Flakes then up centre of block. (Stand) |
V0
V0
(Stand) |
V0
Inner Slab
There are a few easy slab problems in the crack in between the boulders. (Stand) |
The Blowhole Area |
Gaston Wall
Nice wall. |
The Blowhole Area Gaston Wall |
V9
Project
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Suntrap Cove
Halfway between Crab Boulders and The Block Area is a small cove with several large boulders on the southern side. |
Suntrap Cove |
VB
VE Arête
Sit start arête. |
V3/4
★ V3 Crack
Sit start crack with LH crimp |
V3
★★ V2 Arête
Sit start with left facing flake. |
V4
V4 Face
Pull into undercling and up. |
V2
V2 Flake
Sit start on flake and head up right. |
V1
★ V1 Sit
SDS. Up on flake |
V3
★ V3
SDS. Ugly first move leads to crimp and highstep. Best avoided. |