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Blackwall

This is a pleasant small South facing summer crag with a few moderately graded classic sporty routes with the bonus of a glorious view over Broken Bay.

Bogas Cave

A selection of climbing from slab to roof on on top quality sandstone.

Bogas Cave
23 Left most route at crag

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

21 Juggy overhang to mad mantle

Steep moves to a tricky mantle and lower off on the left.

19 Bulge Slab

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

19 Swing Left

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

21 Hidden Hold

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

21 Roll me in Her Flour

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

19 In the Name of Progress

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

20 In the Name of Progress R.H.V.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

24 New arete

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

16 Dave's Warmup

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

23 Agro Arete

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

24 Heart of Darkness

Up the small corner to start, good stance leads to a juggy roof. Large flake has been reinforced. Best to back jump to clean.

28 The Bogas Line

Huge line of Permadraws heading out the roof.

25 Lacquerhead

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

25 Vita Fresh

Slick white rock, thin moves to anchor before horizontal roof.

26 Swine

Steep climbing to finish at the "Swine Traverse" anchors.

22 Carnosinengines

Last line of bolts in the lower cave

21/22 Swine Traverse

Starts at the far left of the top cave. Lean out and grab the ledge then traverse for 3 bolts and head straight up to anchors. Tree start has largely disappeared.

16 Left Out

Trad corner at the left end of the top cave. Often dirty.

23 Hang Out

Start on the featured bulge in in the top cave.

24 Farout

Starts above the graffiti to the right of bulge. Jug haul with a cool dyno in the middle

24 Right Out

2m left of the corner, straight up then join White Out at the traverse to the centre anchor.

23 White Out

Start in the corner on the right hand side of cave (shared start with Gonzo). Hard start to a pumpy traverse left. Shared anchors with Farout

23 Gonzo

Shared start with White Out in corner then head right under roof and up short headwall.

  • Back-leading is recommended to clean the route. Too much rope drag exists in order to top-rope from the anchors.
18 Gonzo's Girlfriend

Starts on the right side of the roof. Awkward moves heading up and right to shared finish with Gonzo.

Kit Kat Wall

Routes described from right to left.

Kit Kat Wall
V4 Worlds End

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

V4 Squalkin

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

V7 Flaminco Dance

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

V7 The Crow

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

V5 Night Walker

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

V3 Owl

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

12 An Akubra adventure

The crack R of Chocoholic

14 Chocoholic

Start up corner at the right end of Kit Kat wall to ledge of cave, then left up slab to top. 2BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

18 Break a Piece for Me

Direct start to Chocoholic, 1.5m left of corner. Straight up past BR then as Chocoholic. 3BR, DBB.

19 Waffer Fingers

Start 4m left of corner, up to BR then veer left to hueco then straight up. 4BR, DBB.

21 Better Brakes than a Bobcat

Start 2m right of BBTAKK (below). 4BR, shares belay with BBTAKK.

19 Better Breaks than a Kit Kat

Obvious centre crack or weakness up centre of wall. 4BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

21 Take a Break

Start 2m left of BBTAKK, take care with the first high clip. 3BR, DBB.

22 I Love Cats, Not!

Harder left hand variant start to TAB, right after first clip then as for TAB. 4BR, DBB.

16 Put a Hot Wire Through my Head

The right side of the obvious off width chimney, excellent protection.

Red Head Wall

Routes described from right to left. Area starts on the left hand side of the large chimney and finishes at the left arete after the roof.

Red Head Wall
19 Suspenders Will Do It

Start 4m left of large off width chimney, veering right to underside of roof and exit left. 4BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

21 Suspenders Will Do It RHV

Start to the right side of SWDI, straight up arête to roof and exit left. 4BR, DBB.

21 Just Dye it

2m left of SWDI up left side of blunt arête. 5BR, DBB.

23 Rather be Dead than Red

3m left of JDI, straight up and over bulge. 4BR, DBB which is on top of large block in front of dead tree. Heading left to the ring bolts above the crack misses the crux.

15 Grand Canyon

Off width crack / corner at the end of Red Head wall. Ring bolts anchor and runners added 4/7/15.

22 Big Day Out

Top rope problem 2m left of corner, never bolted due to poor rock. Up center of short wall through roof and short headwall above. DBB.

Offspring Wall

Route descriptions from right to left. Area is a bit more spread out than the previous two areas. Some routes are on carrot bolts

Offspring Wall
16 Hell No its Twins

Up slab on left side of arête. 4 carrot bolts along route, CARROTS FOR ANCHORS

17 Shelve it

Start 3m left of HNIT, up slab then run it out through easy ground to the belay. 3 carrots, DBB.

14 Home improvements

Obvious crack 1.5m left of 'Shelve it'.

19 Roaches have cream centres

Up through small alcove 4m left of HI. Bit dirty but worth a look. 3 carrots, DBB - CARROTS FOR ANCHORS.

14 Backyard Blitz

8m further left up corner past black boy sticking out of the cliff.

18 Arête left of bb

Up alcove right of rumba, with a small cam if needed. Step left onto arête and up to bolt belay. Can traverse left to access U bolts to clean.

22 Route to R of Rumba

Start: As for Rumba

Veer right up wall to finish up the the right side of of the prominent overhanging block.

21 Rumba

8m left of BB, start off low block & veer slightly right to finish back on the left side of the prominent overhanging block. Looks like this has been retro-bolted.

23 Techtonic

starts on the left or right side of the undercut block at the right end of the large cave. 2 rings are placed to allow either start.Straight up to the steepening wall and the anchors directly above. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015. Much safer than the earlier version by Richard. (He gave his blessing to the rebolting)

23 Sagittarius

Start as for Techtonic until third ring then branches off left to the lower offs on L side of upper wall. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015 with Gordon's blessing

26 Living vicariously

10m L of Saggitarius and just before The Box. Hard start up to the roof then up and around the lip onto the arete. Finishes as for The Box. Bolted by Julian Hurrell and Paul Riviere Feb 2016. FA by Julian May 2016.

23 The Box

Starts 8mts L of Techtonic. Crux start up the steep cavity to horizontal break at about 3.5 m. Upwards tending L around into the boxy corner. Enjoy some good old fashioned jamming (remember this is a sport climb) before leaving the crack and moving back onto the wall. Depending on the moisture continue straight up or trend a little right. Fun climb

26 Modern plumbing

Left end of cave, stick clip first bolt to protect start, up to break #1 & 1.5 camming device then up steepening wall. DBB.

25 Ring Leader

Start 3m left of MP, easy climbing to the first high clip then veering right and up steepening wall to top. 2 Rings added by Paul Riviere July 2015. It was originally graded 23. Sandbag at the grade. The last move is desperate - not sure if it has ever been done without bailing left on the last move? Be the one!

21 Welcome to Ettalong

Start: 3m L of Ring Leader. Trends R up the weakness L of RL with a funky move to get to the anchors. Looks easy with some fun at the end. Easy tick for the grade.

12 Red Neck

Up easy slab left of RL. Mid sized Friend protects at half way.

14 Grubby groove

Corner crack 8m left of RN.

15 Unnamed 2

10m left of GG up slab left side of arête. 2 carrots, tree belay. FA unknown

Bolted dirty abandoned project

6m further left, left side of blunt arête, always dirty. DBB.

Underworld

From the "dirty abandoned project" at the end of Offspring Wall walk 70m further L until you come to a collapsed roof system - This is where "Underworld" commences. If you go down the little gully to the lower tier you will find an overhanging section with three bolted mini routes on superb polished sandstone. If you continue walking thru the upper section it will bring you to a 5m long roof with an epic long boulder problem. Toward the edge of the cliff you will find anchors on a large slab that is atop the lower level. This area contains three routes.

Underworld
V10 Standard Deviation

Starting 1-2m to the right of "Sinusoidal" on two edges in the roof. Move right to a pocket, and make a big move to the lip. Make your way up using crimps and slopers on the face ultimately joining "Sinusoidal" to finish

V10 Sinusoidal

Just as you walk into the cave, start on two obvious juggy pockets just under the roof. Make a tough move out to a small crimp rail then a tricky jump to a flat ledge. Continue straight up the slab to top out.

V7 Room with a View

Sit start at the back of the cave, and follow the line of holds arcing out to the right. Finish matched on a ledge around the lip after some cruxy moves.

Back to the upper level. This is the boulder problem under the roof that sits above Nice climb for the Kids and Little Gem. When you come the collapsed roof system and crawl thru to the other end of the cave you will come to a roof system about 1.5m above ground level. "Room with a view" starts in the back of the cave and goes all the way to the lip and finishes on the headwall.

V8/9 Room with a better view

Climb room with a view all the way to the slopey lip then bust up and left to good ledge before going straight up and up on some crimp rails before easy high terrain topping out. First done with a tied in spotter and it would be recommended.

V10/11 Sloths in the Attic

Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off.

Jenny Lin

V12 Sloths In Space

The contender for best in the cave? Climb as for 'Sloths in the attic' to the the big jug rail, from here traverse the lip back-towards 'Room with a better view" through some small edges and a tough cut. Top out as for "Room with a better view'

V13 Academic Revision

Start about 3m to the right of "Room with a View" matched on jug at back of cave and climb virtually directly out of the roof, towards the same finish jug as "Room with a view" continue left topping out as for "Room with a better view"

V13 Academic Advancement

Links Academic Revision into Dr Bob top out.

V13 Academic Analysis

Climb "Academic Revision" through to the finish of "Room with a view" traverse right through some crimps to the obvious flat ledge of "Sinusoidal" and head directly up the slab, with some spooky feet to top out.

V7 Dr Bob

Starting on the finish jug of "Room With a View" and head directly up through a long move to the crimp rail, continuing straight up to top out.

V6 Cold Blooded

Start on smooth slot at the beginning of the left hand arete. Climb the arete all the way out to finish topping out the same as Sloths in the attic.

V0 Trad dads in the corner

Stand start in the corner. Lay back or jam your way up, mantle over the boulder on top.

V4 Slugs on the walls

Sit start with hands on the low break. Use side pulls and edges to gain the jug in the high break. Mantle over the top, no feet on the wall to the right.

V6 Kangaroos on the verandah

Start and finish as for ‘Slugs on the wall’. Move up to left hand slot and right hand flat side pull. Yeet to the break and mantle over. No feet on the wall to the right.

15 A Nice Climb for the Kids

This route is best approached by taking the vague gully (before crawling thru the collapsed roofs) down to the lower level where a nice short overhanging wall sports three routes. The first route is easiest is on the R hand side of the overhang. Two rings and anchors.

21 Little Treasure

The route 1m L of 'A Nice Climb for the Kids' Beaut sandstone up the ever steepening little wall to the anchors 3m L of previous route. Short and sweet. Easier than it looks.

the gift - project

The furthest route L of the three in this mini area. Harder than its companions to the R. Open project

V14 Fourier's Proof

Starts the same as Academic Revision but after the hard pinch move you go across via some techy moves into the start of Sinusoidal and finish this topping out the cliff. A PE feat.

V14 Sloths with Degrees

Climb Academic revision to the slopey jug on the lip. Then reverse room with a view back to the sloths crux, finishes as sloths in the attic. Fight the pump!

Pinochio and friends

A difficult to find cliff on Blackwall midway between Bogas and Underworld. Is best approached by locating the southern end of Bogas Cliff. Find your way from Gonzo moving up and around to the R. You will eventually come to the top of Blackwall and a distinctive walking track. Follow track to its most south-west location, then drop to the southern side of the hill moving L as you get lower. You will come to a large boulder with bolts in the top for top-roping some great boulder probs. Pinochio and friends are just beyond this block,

Pinochio and friends
top roping boulder

Several options exist on this boulder for some tough little top rope problems. Belay bolts can be found on top. You walk down past this boulder on your way to Pinochio and friends

25 Mary's little lamb

Like a lamb to the slaughter. The route up the seam/wall a few mts L of the arete route "Pinochio". Goes straight up the seam using mainly cams a bolt or two.

22 pinocchio

The alluring arete R of Mary's Little Lamb. Starts from the ground and just L of the arete. #3 cam adds a bit of comfort getting beyond the horizontal break before heading R for the arete. rap anchors on top.

24 piss point

a blunt arete down on the lower level short cliff. Used to be used to piss off from the upper terrace until we noticed it was worth climbing. Hard move to start with some nice friction and balance moves on the upper section.

26 the joker

a few metres R of piss point. natural gear, smallish cams and a couple of #2-3 nuts give adequate protection down low until you get into the business up higher with a couple of rings to get you there. Anchors for top roping. This climb is a must!

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