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Routes as sport in Blackwall

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Showing all 52 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
16 Hell No its Twins

Up slab on left side of arête. 4 carrot bolts along route, CARROTS FOR ANCHORS

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Ted Rhodes & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
23 Hang Out

Start on the featured bulge in in the top cave.

FA: Paul Riviere

Sport 8m, 4 Blackwall
19 Better Breaks than a Kit Kat

Obvious centre crack or weakness up centre of wall. 4BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1996

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
14 Chocoholic

Start up corner at the right end of Kit Kat wall to ledge of cave, then left up slab to top. 2BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

FA: Anna, Rod Schneider, Richard Jeffrey & Jenny Mclaren, 1996

Sport 10m, 2 Blackwall
24 Farout

Starts above the graffiti to the right of bulge. Jug haul with a cool dyno in the middle

FA: paul, 1989

Sport 8m Blackwall
17 Shelve it

Start 3m left of HNIT, up slab then run it out through easy ground to the belay. 3 carrots, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Ted Rhodes & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

Sport 10m, 3 Blackwall
23 White Out

Start in the corner on the right hand side of cave (shared start with Gonzo). Hard start to a pumpy traverse left. Shared anchors with Farout

FA: Paul Riviere

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
19 Suspenders Will Do It

Start 4m left of large off width chimney, veering right to underside of roof and exit left. 4BR, DBB (CARROTS FOR ANCHORS)

FA: Richard Jeffrey & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
21 Welcome to Ettalong

Start: 3m L of Ring Leader. Trends R up the weakness L of RL with a funky move to get to the anchors. Looks easy with some fun at the end. Easy tick for the grade.

Set: paul

FFA: paul & carlos castillo, 28 Jun 2015

Sport 14m, 4 Blackwall
21/22 Swine Traverse

Starts at the far left of the top cave. Lean out and grab the ledge then traverse for 3 bolts and head straight up to anchors. Tree start has largely disappeared.

FA: Paul Riviere

Sport 10m, 3 Blackwall
26 Swine

Steep climbing to finish at the "Swine Traverse" anchors.

FA: Paul Riviere/ George Fieg

Sport 12m Blackwall
19 Waffer Fingers

Start 4m left of corner, up to BR then veer left to hueco then straight up. 4BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Ted Rhodes & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
23 Gonzo

Shared start with White Out in corner then head right under roof and up short headwall.

  • Back-leading is recommended to clean the route. Too much rope drag exists in order to top-rope from the anchors.

FA: john wilde

Sport 10m Blackwall
19 Swing Left

FA: Paul Riviere

Sport 6m Blackwall
16 Dave's Warmup
Sport 6m Blackwall
23 Techtonic

starts on the left or right side of the undercut block at the right end of the large cave. 2 rings are placed to allow either start.Straight up to the steepening wall and the anchors directly above. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015. Much safer than the earlier version by Richard. (He gave his blessing to the rebolting)

FA: richard jeffrey, 2000

Sport 12m, 7 Blackwall
18 Break a Piece for Me

Direct start to Chocoholic, 1.5m left of corner. Straight up past BR then as Chocoholic. 3BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey & Ted Rhodes, 1996

Sport 10m, 3 Blackwall
23 Rather be Dead than Red

3m left of JDI, straight up and over bulge. 4BR, DBB which is on top of large block in front of dead tree. Heading left to the ring bolts above the crack misses the crux.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1996

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
21 Juggy overhang to mad mantle

Steep moves to a tricky mantle and lower off on the left.

FA: paul riviere

Sport 7m Blackwall
18 Gonzo's Girlfriend

Starts on the right side of the roof. Awkward moves heading up and right to shared finish with Gonzo.

Sport 7m, 2 Blackwall
21 Better Brakes than a Bobcat

Start 2m right of BBTAKK (below). 4BR, shares belay with BBTAKK.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Mathew Kingsman-Smith & Jenny Mclaren, 1996

Sport 10m Blackwall
23 Sagittarius

Start as for Techtonic until third ring then branches off left to the lower offs on L side of upper wall. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015 with Gordon's blessing

FA: gordon porter, 2000

Sport 15m, 7 Blackwall
25 Lacquerhead
Sport 12m Blackwall
24 Right Out

2m left of the corner, straight up then join White Out at the traverse to the centre anchor.

FA: paul riviere

Set: paul riviere

Sport Blackwall
19 Roaches have cream centres

Up through small alcove 4m left of HI. Bit dirty but worth a look. 3 carrots, DBB - CARROTS FOR ANCHORS.

FA: Richard Jeffrey & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

Sport 10m, 3 Blackwall
19 Bulge Slab

FA: paul riviere

Sport 7m Blackwall
23 The Box

Starts 8mts L of Techtonic. Crux start up the steep cavity to horizontal break at about 3.5 m. Upwards tending L around into the boxy corner. Enjoy some good old fashioned jamming (remember this is a sport climb) before leaving the crack and moving back onto the wall. Depending on the moisture continue straight up or trend a little right. Fun climb

FA: paul riviere, 4 Jul 2015

Sport 15m, 9 Blackwall
21 Suspenders Will Do It RHV

Start to the right side of SWDI, straight up arête to roof and exit left. 4BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 2001

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
25 Ring Leader

Start 3m left of MP, easy climbing to the first high clip then veering right and up steepening wall to top. 2 Rings added by Paul Riviere July 2015. It was originally graded 23. Sandbag at the grade. The last move is desperate - not sure if it has ever been done without bailing left on the last move? Be the one!

Set: richard jeffrey & grant severn, 2002

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
19 In the Name of Progress

FA: paul riviere

Sport 6m Blackwall
21 Hidden Hold

FA: Paul Riviere

Sport 6m Blackwall
22 Route to R of Rumba

Start: As for Rumba

Veer right up wall to finish up the the right side of of the prominent overhanging block.

Sport 12m, 4 Blackwall
25 Vita Fresh

Slick white rock, thin moves to anchor before horizontal roof.

FA: Jason Piper

Sport 12m Blackwall
21 Just Dye it

2m left of SWDI up left side of blunt arête. 5BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1996

Sport 10m, 5 Blackwall
24 Heart of Darkness

Up the small corner to start, good stance leads to a juggy roof. Large flake has been reinforced. Best to back jump to clean.

Sport 18m Blackwall
21 Take a Break

Start 2m left of BBTAKK, take care with the first high clip. 3BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1996

Sport 10m, 3 Blackwall
18 Arête left of bb

Up alcove right of rumba, with a small cam if needed. Step left onto arête and up to bolt belay. Can traverse left to access U bolts to clean.

Sport 12m, 4 Blackwall
23 Agro Arete

FA: Paul Riviere

Sport 6m Blackwall
22 I Love Cats, Not!

Harder left hand variant start to TAB, right after first clip then as for TAB. 4BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, 1996

Sport 10m, 4 Blackwall
26 Living vicariously

10m L of Saggitarius and just before The Box. Hard start up to the roof then up and around the lip onto the arete. Finishes as for The Box. Bolted by Julian Hurrell and Paul Riviere Feb 2016. FA by Julian May 2016.

FA: Julian Hurrell

Set: julian hurrel & paul riviere, Feb 2016

FFA: 14 May 2016

Sport 12m, 7 Blackwall
15 Unnamed 2

10m left of GG up slab left side of arête. 2 carrots, tree belay. FA unknown

Sport 8m Blackwall
23 Left most route at crag

FA: paul riviere

Sport 8m Blackwall
22 Carnosinengines

Last line of bolts in the lower cave

FA: Jason Piper, 2006

Sport 10m, 5 Blackwall
24 New arete

FA: paul riviere

Sport 13m Blackwall
15 A Nice Climb for the Kids

This route is best approached by taking the vague gully (before crawling thru the collapsed roofs) down to the lower level where a nice short overhanging wall sports three routes. The first route is easiest is on the R hand side of the overhang. Two rings and anchors.

FA: paul, 2015

Set: paul, Jul 2015

Sport 8m, 4 Blackwall
21 Roll me in Her Flour

FA: paul riviere

Sport 6m Blackwall
21 Little Treasure

The route 1m L of 'A Nice Climb for the Kids' Beaut sandstone up the ever steepening little wall to the anchors 3m L of previous route. Short and sweet. Easier than it looks.

Set: paul, Jul 2015

Sport 12m, 5 Blackwall
20 In the Name of Progress R.H.V.

FA: paul riviere

Sport 6m Blackwall
the gift - project

The furthest route L of the three in this mini area. Harder than its companions to the R. Open project

Set: paul riviere, 19 Jul 2015

Sport 8m, 6 Blackwall
Bolted dirty abandoned project

6m further left, left side of blunt arête, always dirty. DBB.

Set:

Sport 8m, 2 Blackwall
24 piss point

a blunt arete down on the lower level short cliff. Used to be used to piss off from the upper terrace until we noticed it was worth climbing. Hard move to start with some nice friction and balance moves on the upper section.

Set: paul riviere

FA: paul riviere, 2000

Sport 5 Blackwall
28 The Bogas Line

Huge line of Permadraws heading out the roof.

FA: Jason Piper, 2020

SportProject 17m Blackwall

Showing all 52 routes.

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