Routes in Magpie Gully

Start matched a big sloper on the left side of the crag. Move out right to a big sidepull on the arete, then diagonally left to crimps in line with the arete. Top out.

Start as per Snakes Alive and then right hand up to the arete and top out. Originally done by putting the right foot high right (making it V6), however more cunning people (with amazing technique) worked out the left foot on the starting hold made it much easier.

Standing start with a good LH edge and thinner adjacent RH edge, then lock down to gaston the arete up and left. Match this and topout diagonally left via crimpers.

(SDS). Start under the roof beneath the start holds of 'Married to a Magpie'. Climb into the start of that problem (blind move LH) then bust up and right to a big sidepull. Topout.

Start as for Mach III, move RH into a hard gaston, then LH to the Bicep Buster sloper, RH out to the sloper of Magpie Has Landed, match this, then finish up that problem.

9 move power endurance line starting as for Mach III/Bicep Buster but busting left all the way across the Snakes Alive sloper.

Powerful two move problem starting off the sloper below the roof (centre of the crag) then busting LH up to a poor sloper-edge and RH to the Mach III hold (sharp sidepull). Top out.

Start on two small holds on the break (one being the right hand start hold of Magpie has Landed). Then RH to the sloper with the sharp crimp on it, LH to the slope with sidepull (intermediate) then left again to sloper. RH into vertical slot (sharp) then LH over the top to sidepull. Top out.

Silly name for a great problem squeezed in between The Magpie Has Landed and A Close Shave. LH on the triangular sloper, RH on the next small crimp, over the top with the LH to another small crimp, then RH up to 2 more small crimps before getting to the finish jugs.

Start as for Snakes Alive. Move RH to the good edge of Magpie Roast, then LH to a small undercut sidepull. Bump RH to the RH edge of Magpie Roast and move LH to its starting crimp. RH to the Mach III start hold, then LH to Magpie Roast R-hand edge. Bust a move to the Mach III sharp sidepull, then LH to the small edge above it and RH to the jug up right. Sequential, sharp and tough!

Brilliant climbing along a sustained and technical traverse. Do 'Snakes Alive', and at the big right hand side pull, continue low right thought the start of 'The Magpie Has Landed' Stand Start and finish up right of 'Warm Up 1'.

Start 'Very Low Traverse' into 'Bicep Buster' and finish as per route.