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Ascents climbed between 2013-7-00 and 2013-12-31 in Blue Mountains by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 166 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
23 ~22 Smoko Sport 35m, 16 Very Good
Repeat, seconding Gene as one long pitch. This climb is better than I remember it. I still find the crux near the bottom rather tricky, but the rest of it was simply great fun, and I just enjoyed it.

 
25 The Life of Riley Sport 35m Classic
2nd shot today. Stoked! Is this perhaps the best face climb I've ever done? The first shot I struggled with the bouldery bottom crux (and after falling, took my time to figure out the super-technical, strenuous middle-crux), so that when I jumped on for the second lap it was all executed perfectly, and I still felt really good after topping out. A true climbers climb in the vein of Marxism P1, with 2 distinct cruxes, but unrelenting technicality outside of them. Brilliant!

 
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Reservoir Dogs
21 Mr Orange Sport 38m, 17 Very Good
Repeat, seconding Gene as one long pitch. Still a great climb, and an interesting contrast to Wake Up and Apologise next to it (Mr Orange is far more strenous, but not particularly technical). On the money at 21 when climbed as a giant pitch.

 
22 Wake Up and Apologise Sport 38m, 16 Very Good
Climbed as one giant pitch. Makes a good warm-up, as the cruisy start gets you in the mood for the great top section. The top half is maybe sustained at 21, with great thin climbing and a variety of different moves. The rock looks a bit friable but neither Gene or I broke anything off. At least as good as Mr Orange.

 
Sat 28th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Jean Genie Area
24 Goosebumps Sport 10m, 4 Good
Too thrashed after the day. Unlike my last attempt all the moves felt easy, I just didn't have the gas left for the send. Next time I'll get on it before the end of the day. Fun tricky boulder start, and exciting dyno finale.

 
Sat 28th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave
22 24 A Most Profligate Sinner Sport 18m Very Good
2nd shot. Most of it is a great, tricky, varied 22 on perfect rock and with nicely spaced bolts... Except for the V3 boulder crux, that's probably more 24... But if you IGNORE that section, it's totally 22. I really enjoyed this one for the experience, but don't climb it for the grade.

 
Sat 28th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Rod's Ravine
16 The Friendly Jackal Trad 20m Very Good
Repeat. Climbed to get Guns gear back. Only placed 2 cams (the rest was wires and hexes). Nice climbing, and a friendly introduction to trad with tonnes of great pro.

 
Sat 28th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave
25 George, King of the Jungle Sport 20m Very Good
An embarassing number of shots for the tick (4) because I just kept making stupid mistakes and falling off. Great climb, why does this get climbed so rarely? Not hard for a 25, but amazing climbing the whole way with really funky, varied movement. I did the last move to the ORIGINAL set of anchors, which isn't really all that hard, but quite exciting. I then had to back-jump it to clean which was exhilerating from the top.

 
Sat 28th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall
21 22 Hang onto Yourself Sport 20m Very Good
Repeat. Direct start without pre-clipping the draw this time. More scary and balancy than hard. By the 3rd draw this one is over, but it's a blast getting there. Not 22 despite what the guide says.

 
21 22 Lady Grinning Soul Sport 25m, 7 Very Good
One move wonder, definately a grade 21 move, surrounded by easier (but still pretty good) climbing. Undercling!

 
Thu 26th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower)
24 Ten No Trumps Sport 16m, 7 Very Good
2nd shot, way too smashed for the flash. Soft at 24 WITH the beta, but probably quite a hard onsight as the crux is quite sequency and the best holds are not obvious. I found the main crux hard, but the second (reachy) crux wasn't so bad for me at my height. Quite interesting climbing, and unique compared to its neighbours.

 
Thu 26th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside
25 The Dreaming Void Sport 29m, 12 Classic
Nooooo! Placing the draws, in the sun, the tick ended on the LAST MOVE TO THE ANCHORS (which isn't even that hard) when I totally muffed the sequence! I fought tooth and nail with everything I had to get there, and it was absolutely devestating to come off when it was totally in the bag. Fortunately this is such a great climb that if I have to come back to it for the tick, that's not such a bad thing. Much more fun this time than my last lap... Except the sandpit start, that bit is horrible.

 
25 The Reality Dysfunction Sport 20m, 12 Classic
First shot today placing the draws. Alzheimers Onsight? This was the first 25 I ever tried a year and a half ago! Mindblowingly great climbing. I was making all kinds of weird noises as the climb progressed, and the jugs began to feel less juggy. The crux is turning the roof at the start (super-funky moves), and the jugs merely form the pumpy gatekeeper for the REAL test: the final flake sequence. Masterful steepness from start to finish.

 
Thu 26th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall
24 23 Out For A Duck Sport 15m Very Good
Second shot. 23 for the red-point. Fell off on the last move of the crux at the top (where everyone does). Great steep-ish face climbing to the crux, then some strenuous climbing to the anchors through the steepness (and via much glue). Definately not as bad as I've heard people say.

 
22 Lucky Duck Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
Placing the draws, but I belayed Bundy on this back before he ticked it, so no onsight for me. Tricky, with some interestingly weird moves, but probably about right as a "shorter" (read: less intense) 22. I sandbagged myself trying to climb it too directly, but eventually used both-seams and got the tick.

 
Sat 21st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Mr Wall
26 Mr Wendle Sport 10m, 5 Very Good
End of day lap. Really wasn't feeling this climb, but other than the final boulder sequence after the dyno it all went pretty well. Fun.

 
Sat 21st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge
25 8 Carat Sport 26m Very Good
Surely this deserves a star? Bouldery betwen 3 bolts (getting established on the prow) then airy face climbing. Felt quite good. Was psyched for another lap for the tick... But then the sun hit!

 
26 Family Jewels - CLOSED PROJECT Sport 25m, 8 Very Good
Put together the sequence for the lower (main) crux, but am still a long way from linking the climb. Big falls onto my cams in the horizontal is mangling them pretty badly... Might be time to replace the cams with a bolt.

 
23 The Bolt Bloke Sport 30m Very Good
2nd shot. The warm-up onsight attempted ended on the headwall when I couldn't clip a draw due to a quickdraw cockup. I really liked this climb. The start is fairly easy, but makes a good warmup through juggy steepness, and the top headwall is unlikely, technical climbing on amazing red/grey-streaked rock. If it weren't for the lack of lower-offs, this climb would be a classic.

 
Wed 18th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls
22 Wally World Sport 75m Very Good
With Gene. If it weren't for the hideous V3 start, this entire route would be classic. P1 - Red Point. Took a few goes to get off the ground. P2 - Onsight. Both pitches are great climbing with good moves, good position and solid rock... Just ignore the semi-manky carrots. We had an epic finding the second rap (Hint: its at the bottom of the grey slabby section before the first undercut) so I got some prussiking practice. Slings for a useful thread or some supplemental gear might be a good idea.

 
Sat 14th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Colosseum
17 Red Solo Cup Trad 20m Good
Seconded Guns. Pleasant, short-ish tradding with only 1 section of bad rock and good gear the whole way. The top section might be easier now that I've removed the vegetation in the flared section of the crack (still some scrub remains). Almost certainly climbed previously.

 
25 Mixed Business Trad 40m Classic
Wow. 2 shots. Would make an amazing 24M1 IF there was a dogging bolt to pull through the crux. The crux is bloody nails (If there is a grade 25 way of doing this, please tell me!) and I didn't have a hope of linking it. Nice mix of SPACED gear and bolts with stunning climbing on good rock, mixing trad and sporty movement into a must-do monster. A bit of a mental and physical endurance test at 50m. For me, it all came down to the nails crux sequence guarding the tick, or a 3rd lap on it.

 
Sat 14th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Valley Farm
19 Virgins with Rifles Sport 15m, 6 Good
Not too bad... Not too good. Worth doing once, at least. One tricky sequence, okay (easier) climbing around it... Didn't break anything off. Some exposure, I suppose. Something something.

 
Sat 14th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sunbath
20 Radioactive Man Sport 12m Very Good
Repeat. Warm-up in approach shoes. Only clipped the bolt before and the bolt after the crux. Awesome little 20, still heaps of fun.

 
Fri 13th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Lower Blue Mountains The Heights Purgatory Wall
14 Yoda Sport 8m, 3 Good
In the dark with my approach shoes. Not a bad little doddle. A pleasant beginners climb.

 
19 93 Memorable Years Sport 10m, 4 Very Good
Repeat. A recon lap to see if I wanted to solo it. Probably the most sustained climb on this wall, and better than I remembered it. The "crux" section with the broken crimp climbs better technically using a double under-cling sequence. Best climb I did all day.

 
18 Totally Testicular Sport 8m, 3 Good
2 Laps. Nice (but short) climbing, but hideously dirty. An interesting crux move. This is the sort of climb that never actually cleans up, so just endure the dirt or stay off this climb.

 
19 Col Wills Aussie Tour Sport 9m, 3 Good
2 laps. Repeat. Pleasant climbing and interesting, long-ish crux. One of the 2 best on this wall.

 
21 Spiderfest Sport 8m, 2 Average
Repeat. A one-sequence wonder. Felt about right at the grade, but only due to a single hold. Okay climbing.

 
15 Queen or Country Sport 8m, 2 Average
Repeat. Okay easy-climbing. Some nice stemming.

 
Wed 11th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side
25 Cicada - PROJECT PAUL Mixed trad 45m, 16 Classic
P3 only. Rope soloing lap. Can now climb every move in good style EXCEPT for the crux move. I'm going to move one of the bolts and redirect the route slightly.

 
Sat 7th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Colosseum
23 Wake of the Flood Trad 50m Classic
Wow. No wonder this is a test piece crack. Amazing trad climbing. P1 - Clean 2nd. P2 - Onsight. P3 - Red Point (took a huge fall back to the ledge onto C3s on the final move on the onsight). The Chimney on P1 is one of the most amazingly WEIRD I've climbed, the jam crack on P2 is strenuous and the coffin slot (and its exit) is weird and techy, and P3 is a sporty, bouldery finger crack. Stoked to finally get on this with Taib. Great rock the whole way.

 
21 Zucchini Crack Trad 25m Average
Called Finnegans Wake in the latest Blueys guidebook. Looks great, climbs okay, but with some of the most horrible rock I've ever climbed on. This rock doesn't snap, so much as disintegrate into sand with ever jam or gear placement. The crux is committing for all the wrong reasons. Climbed with some gear left below the crux (so my partner could lower off), but otherwise placing all the gear. Definately not worth it.

 
Sat 7th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sunbath
22 It Goes! Sport 15m Very Good
Climbed entirely with trad gear for a laugh. The last gear is below the crux roof (for a comparison, as a sports climb this has 3 bolts through the roof, and 2 on the 10m headwall above), and the top headwall is totally unprotected. EXCITING! The gear below the roof is bomber, but a fall from above it would be very bad. Great to see it goes on gear.

 
19 Empty Chairs Sport 10m, 3 Good
Repeat. Short'n'sweet. Nice climbing which is harder than it looks. Good rock and a bit techy.

 
Fri 6th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge
26 Family Jewels (Family Jewels - CLOSED PROJECT) Sport 25m, 8 Very Good
No giveaway, but great, weird, punchy climbing. The money part of the climb consists of 2 dynos (one off a mono, the other off an undercling), and 2 other proper hard sequences, and concludes with an exciting runout. This will be a hard FA, but I'm stoked with it. With good gear placements, I couldn't justify fully bolting it, hence the mixed climb. Looking forward to getting back on it.

 
Thu 5th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Underworld
25 Odyssey Sport 22m Very Good
Rad! First shot I couldn't come up with a viable start sequence, so just kept climbing rather than going for the tick. After the bouldery start, the roof thugging is tonnes of fun, and just keeps going forever (and is excitingly run-out) at maybe 23. After coming back down and with Gene's beta I put together a sequence, and climbed the opening crux moves twice clean before bailing for the night. Next time, for sure!

 
24 Julius Caesar Sport 12m, 6 Classic
Great to finally get back on this for the tick 2 years after it became my first ever "project". Even better to know that my beta from back then was spot on even today. Still took me three shots though, in the coldest summer day ever (sleet???). 1st shot as a warmup I made it through the crux, but my hands froze and I fell off. 2nd was a back-clipped mess. 3rd shot it came together and felt easy. Still great climbing in the style, at the grade.

 
Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls
17 Sweet Dreams Left Variant (Sweet Dreams Variant) Mixed trad 120m, 12 Very Good
Finally got around to actually LEADING this one (after all these years). Pleasant climbing in a great position. Bring some wires a few medium cams for the top seaction.

 
14 Sweet Dreams Mixed trad 130m, 20 Very Good
Repeat. Climbed out with (heavy) packs rather than walking out of the crag. Lead Pitches 1 & 2 (linked) and Pitch 5 via the grade 17 variant. Entertainingly picturesque.

 
Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
23 28 Marxism Sport 62m, 22 Classic
Pitch 1 only in the baking sun. Still took me 2 shots (today) to get it after I got lost below the crux on the first shot. Stunning climbing the whole way on great rock. This type of movement epitomises face climbing!

 
Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
22 La Niña Sport 25m, 10 Very Good
Repeat. Climbed to retrieve a stuck rope. Fortunately it was THIS route that the rope got snagged on and not Thai Virus, because I actually enjoy lapping this beauty.

 
Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Iliad Buttress
23 Trojan (The Illiad Pitch 2 Variant) Trad 25m Very Good
Much harder than it looks. I thought I'd knock this over pretty quickly, but ended up taking 3 shots and quite a few falls trying to sort out the crux ground-up. Quite strenuous and technical, and with only 1 real way to climb it. The gear is okay, but not great. Some small C3s and a double rack of small-ish wires would be an advantage.

 
16 The Iliad Trad 87m Good
Repeat. P1 only to get to the ledge at the start of P2. P2 was then climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start for the FA of that pitch. The first pitch has cleaned up nicely, and was genuinely pleasant to lead.

 
Sat 30th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Mr Wall
26 Super Weak Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
One recon lap (and some playing around at the start trying to find a sequence to the technical crux that works for me). Feels hard, but doable, though I still have my doubt about the crux. Aside from all the glue holding this route together, the climbing itself is pretty awesome, and unrelenting. The glue behind the top of the flake is cracked and the top section of the flake now moves quite a bit.

 
26 Mr Wendle Sport 10m, 5 Very Good
3 shots. Can stick the dyno and the moves after it (with a great deal of grunty effort) but haven't linked past the cut-loose match. Feels like a bit of a novelty, but is a hell of a lot of fun (even if you don't like this sort of climbing). Feels like it should go easily, but somehow never does.

 
Sat 30th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge
23 Uncooth Youth Sport 18m Very Good
Tried as an onsight for a warm-up. Not so good a warm-up. Had a 2nd shot a few minutes after the first, but still didn't managed to tick it. Will go easily enough next time. Cruxy and punchy, but with generally interesting climbing. The crux section is definately tricky thanks to an absense of worthwhile footers.

 
Sat 23rd Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall
25 Dark Energy Sport 22m, 13 Classic
Soooo close on the flash! It all ended at the huge dyno 2 bolts from the top (almost stuck the dyno, but couldn't hold the swing). Pumpy, gymnastic, and with a bit of technique in there as well. Prime super-steep real-estate on this arete. You won't believe how steep it is until you lower off. The final moves after the dyno are exposed and technical: damn good onsight, JengA.

 
26 Rabbit with Fangs Sport 26m, 15 Good
Tough number! The crux crimp section seemed ludicrously impossible until I found an unchalked, unticked CRUCIAL hold that made the sequence merely very hard. Quite tough the whole way, with a lot of glued on holds, and really weird, techy climbing. I'm keen to try it again.

 
25 Captain Kurko Sport 22m, 12 Very Good
Great steep, thuggy climbing, with a gymnastic start and a few more intriguing moves amongst the ongoing pumpy jugging. Maybe soft at the grade, or is that just because it's so straightforward? Tonnes of fun, though.

 
24 Brain Drain Sport 20m, 11 Classic
2nd shot. Great sustained climbing in prime position. Two hard moves, but this is not a "cruxy" route, just a technical and pumpy one. Brilliant.

 
Thu 21st Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
24 25 Taxi Driver Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
3 shots in deteriorating conditions (wet mist and at night), but Gene proved pitch black and a headlamp is no excuse not to Send. Done with 1 fall on my third shot, stuck the crux move but couldn't follow through to get into the easy climbing. Would be 22/23 without the one hard sequence. Don't follow the chalk out right at the tricky start. : look around.

 
Thu 21st Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall
23 On the Wagon Sport 22m Very Good
Warm-up, placing the draws this time. Felt easy this time. Height is a definate advantage on this one.

 
22 The Draw Thief Sport 20m, 11 Average
A few hardish moves, then sustained pump to the top. A bit contrived, and bad rock. Probably the worst of the bolted routes on this wall.

 
Sat 16th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower)
22 Bell End Direct Sport 16m Average
A good start sequence, and one interesting move in the middle, surrounded by much psuedo-steep ugliness and knife blades masquerading as holds. Sharp and painful. Probably not worth it.

 
25 Paint God Sport 20m Classic
2nd shot. The first lap ended at the same point as Will Monks below: launching for a red-herring monster-tick mark, instead of to the crucial jug elsewhere. Super-rad roof moves, then interesting and mostly juggy climbing up the headwall. The top crux is challenging but not too bad. The final section (to the anchors) is a balancy, committing change of pace. Excitingly run out (I took a big fall on this one). Awesome.

 
Sat 16th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside
21 When the Spirits are Calling Sport 15m, 8 Good
Stiff at the grade, but interestingly awkward. Better than the lower-grade climbs on Duck Wall, so makes a worthy addition. Some dubious rock.

 
25 The Dreaming Void Sport 29m, 12 Very Good
So damn close on the flash, fell off 2 bolts from the top. Great climbing with a few different personalities. More technical and "sideways" on the steeper sections that some of the other climbs on this wall, and the techy corner above the ledge is great. Next time, for sure.

 
23 An Angel Walks By Sport 23m, 13 Very Good
2nd shot. I climbed like a bumbly on the first shot and totally muffed it up. A great climb that goes right to the top of the cliff, and climbs very differently to its neighbours at this crag. I found it quite stiff at the grade, but a great addition. Slopers and Underclings!

 
22 Seamstress Sport 22m, 10 Classic
Repeat. Stunning climbing, and quite long. Right up there as one of the best 22's in the mountains,

 
Thu 14th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall
21 Catweazel Trad 15m Very Good
Packs a punch for 10m of climbing. Climbed at night with a headlamp as a "warm-down", but it got the blood going instead. Some great, tricky, thin arete moves in the top half.

 
Thu 14th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond
22 Cheap Dive Sport 27m Classic
New guide calls it "test piece 23", I thought it was hard for 22, but probably soft at 23. Regardless, it is radical climbing the whole way (with around 2 million bolts to keep it "safe"), with some awesome technical sections, a brief bit of thugging, a balancy arete and a thin face. Not a test piece, but certainly a classic.

 
Thu 14th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Black Gold Buttress
19 21 Long Distance Relationships Mixed trad 50m, 20 Good
Climbed from the ground to the top of the cliff in 1 50m pitch with two ropes and only minor rope management. I actually thought Screen Gems had been Retrobolted and I was following that line. Took a rack of cams and I'm glad I did, though it's still excitingly run-out at times. I think the crux move is probably more 22 than 19, though the rest of the route is about right at 19-20. I got confused with the divergent carrots at the crux and rested to try and figure it out. Not bad. Adventurous!

 
Thu 14th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Fashion Area
24 Work Injury Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
Good, but it's got nothing on Fashion next door (which I also thought was harder). Some extremely thin moves between pretty good stances, with reasonable criming to the anchors. The bottom few bolts are pretty bad.

 
23 Fashion Sport 15m, 7 Classic
Awesome climbing! The bouldery start is tough, but after that the climbing is pleasant and technical to the anchors. Following the weird flake feature makes for funky psuedo-corner climbing. I agree with Will on this one, 4 bolts + anchors would have made a perfect route on this wall.

 
21 Queen Bitch Sport 15m Very Good
D'oh! I could have clipped the anchors on the onsight from the stemming stance, but decided to do one more move to the "jugs" above the anchors and fell off. Whoops! Most of the climb is funky grade 19 stemming, but the top moves are kind of tricky, and probably warrant the grade. Pretty good as a warm up, especially if you want a bit of trad with your sport.

 
Sat 2nd Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff
24 23 Shaggy D.A. Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
One hard move that is out of proportion with the rest of the climb, then fun jugging to the top. The final long runout adds character to this route, without actually being dangerous. Juggy steepness.

 
24 Rain Maker Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
2 shots. Damn good. No crux, but sustained slopiness. Should have sent 2nd shot, but muffed one of the lower easy moves and pumped out on a harder move up high. Great movement on great rock, and nicely bolted. Will go down next time for sure.

 
22 Dead Man Walking Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
I quite enjoyed this. Felt like a spot of thrutching at a sport crag. Very 3-D and quite out of place at Logan Brae. Not too pumpy... Might be a good warmup.

 
Sat 2nd Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge
23 You Crazy Diamond Sport 26m, 9 Classic
Still awesome, and good to clean up this silly old dog, placing the draws. Felt quite easy today, but it was a pleasure to climb even in the blazing sun. No real crux, just sustained and varied technical climbing right to the anchors. One of the best 23's out there.

 
Sat 2nd Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Frog Buttress
22 Unknown Sport 15m Very Good
Probably worth the walk. Steepish juggy start, to nice climbing with one particularly tricky move to an invisible hold. Spot on at the grade. The tiny bolts are a bit bodgy.

 
Sat 2nd Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge
21 The Jewel Thief Sport 28m Classic
Repeat. No pushover at the grade, but stunning and worthwhile climbing the whole way. Some long draws will help. Did the unprotected (bouldery) direct start, probably better to start up the vague corner to the left. Great!

 
Sun 13th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Boganville Right Wall
23 Venissieux Sport 23m, 9 Classic
My biggest dissappointment in myself of the day: done with one rest after the hard clip at the start of the second traverse (I saw the runout to come and got scared). Funky jugging at the start and the finish, with a super-thin fiddly traverse in the middle, and a reachy, steeper, bold one after that. Could easily be called 24, I think. Probably my favourite route of the day, and one I wish I had the energy to give a second shot. I'd come back for this one. Even with one rest it was a fight!

 
21 The Original Bogan Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
Niiiiice technical climbing. At the end of Mr Ed you have a choice of left or right to get to the next bolt (one move balancy mantle or a longer technical flake, which will YOU choose?), with an undercling flake finale that makes climbing Mr Ed to get here totally worthwhile. Don't let appearances deceive you, this one is rad.

 
19 Mr Ed Sport 14m, 6 Good
Ugh... painful. Steep jugging on sharp rock. Not my cup of tea, but it IS cool that climbs this steep can go at this easy a grade in the Blueys. Felt harder than All The Way May except for the last move. Only really worthwhile if done with the extension...

 
22 All The Way May Sport 11m, 5 Good
Nails thin finale to a grade 19 climb. I disagree with JengA, in that I think that a grade 22 move at the end of a grade 19 climb still makes it 22. The epitome of a one move wonder. An okay warm-up, perhaps, but an average climb.

 
Sun 13th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Boganville Left Wall
24 Johnny The Neo Liberal Bogan Sport 25m, 12 Classic
Can you get any closer without sending? My flash ended 1/2 a metre from the anchors. I could touch the anchors, but couldn't clip them, so I threw to what looked like a jug... but wasn't. After a titanic fall (my belayer thought I was trying to clip and paid out a mountain of slack) I found the trick jug not where one expects it to be. Crux off the ground, with a few tricky sequences accentuated by the ongoing steepness, getting progressively thinner as the climb gets higher and steeper. GREAT!

 
21 Boganville Sport 28m, 11 Very Good
2/3rds of this is stellar. Technical thin-ish traverse, then nice body-position moves to steep-ish jugging. The last 1/3rd is bad rock, and ruins the experience a bit... but only a little. The anchors should be 2m lower.

 
21 The Fishmongers Wife Sport 24m, 10 Good
My least favourite of the three 21s. The first 8m or so is really good interesting climbing on nice rock to a no hands rest, after which it's just steep, sharp chossy jugging forever and ever. Not a bad climb, just very predictable after the start.

 
22 Yobbo Cow Bait Sport 20m, 10 Very Good
Fun thugging. The start is probably 21ish, then 19 to the top after the ledge, but the trick hold around the arete might make it the grade for an onsight (until someone like me puts a BIG TICK MARK on it). Entertaining steepness.

 
21 My Flannelette Shirt Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
Bloody hard for a 21, and strenuous as a warm-up. The others climbing with me on the day might disagree, but I thought that this one was at least as good as Boganville. Somewhat ugly, reachy, position-dependent climbing, but it was less straight forward than the other 21's on this street. Rock is good until the very end.

 
Sat 12th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mitchells Ridge Grace Gully
26 Grace Sport 16m Classic
2 shots. So damned close! Fell off with my fingers on the clipping jug after the crux (didn't grab the hold properly before committing to using it, and slipped off) on the second shot. With good conditions, this one HAS to go. Thanks for the help on the crux sequence, Gene.

 
20 Oh! Shut up! Sport 15m Good
2 laps as a warm-up for Grace. Lead-down climbed the whole route on the 2nd lap. Better than it looks, and strangely not as dirty as you might think. Technical and thin at the grade. TOP ANCHOR IS LOOSE!

 
Sun 6th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side
25 Cicada - PROJECT PAUL Mixed trad 45m, 16 Classic
Pitch 3 - Still can't do the crux move, even after rapping the route and working out a new sequence. The move is there, and it will go, I just need to actually TRAIN to be able to send it. This one could be a bit of a long haul.

 
25 Cicada - PROJECT PAUL Mixed trad 45m, 16 Classic
Pitch 2 (23) ONLY - Sent 2nd shot today. Probably the best single pitch of climbing I've ever bolted. Super technical, moderately pumpy, with an exciting final sequence which could be a heart-breaker. Mostly brilliant rock, and every bolt is spot on. Probably soft at the grade, but would be solid at the grade for anyone shorter than me (6ft 2in). Super psyched!

 
Sun 6th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls
17 Sweet Dreams Variant Mixed trad 120m, 12 Very Good
Repeat, seconding Guns on his very ever Multi. Probably the best pitch of CLIMBING on the entire route. Actual climbing moves, nice exposure, and an interesting final exam to any prospective multipitcher.

 
14 Sweet Dreams Mixed trad 130m, 20 Very Good
Repeat, taking Guns on his first ever multi (he lead every pitch). The climbing is very average, but the grade is reasonable, and the position is spectacular. It's popularity is justified.

 
Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mitchells Ridge Grace Gully
26 Grace Sport 16m Very Good
My 11th pitch of climbing today, but glad I got on it. An exploratory lap to see if this classic lived up to its reputation: In the style, it is pretty damn good. So much sharp, microscopic thinness accompanied by much technicality. Sequency! I think that this will go in a few more shots, and -more importantly- I think that it deserves it.

 
Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Catch the Wind Area
22 23 Eat. Sleep. Climb. Repeat Sport 30m Very Good
Took me an embarassing number of attempts for the tick (3), but I'm glad I got it. A tough 7m cruxy section on small, holds (sidepulls!) on a slightly steep orange face gets you started, with easier pleasant climbing to the top. 22 in the same way that Chase the Lady is 23, right JengA? A very good addition.

 
19 5.9+ Sport 20m, 5 Very Good
Better than I expected, and quite a bit better than Catchit nearby. Quite consistantly thin, on good rock, and with pure slab moves. Worthwhile.

 
23 Static Mixed trad 35m, 8 Classic
Another lap to get the gear back for JengA? Sounds like fun. It was. Messier as a speedy second ascent, but no less brilliant.

 
13 Greased Lightning Trad 15m Good
Easy, but pleasant and safe as houses. Would've been brilliant if it were about 30m longer. A few small cams and some wires.

 
23 Static Mixed trad 35m, 8 Classic
Great blank technical stemming. Hard sequences, to great stances. I've been wanting to get on this for a long time, and it was worth the wait. Felt like a Frog 20, but regardless it makes for a brilliant route. The thin crack at the top is heaps of fun too. Take a rack of wires, and maybe a #3 and #.75 for the belay to bring up your second. Probably overbolted, would've been great with 3 bolts and more trad placements.

 
21 Catch the Wind Trad 45m Classic
Repeat. 2nd pitch (THE pitch of the route). No less awesome than the first time, only it made for a good warmup and was less scary. The epitome of trad climbing in the Blueys. Technical, engaging, with truly memorable moves. Dreamy...

 
19 Catchit Sport 15m Good
Repeat. Hasnt become any better since last time, but its an okay warm-up. The first move isnt fun, tbe rest is pleasant, and the rock is good.

 
Sun 22nd Sep 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Buddha/Engineering Area
23 Buddha and the Chocolate Box Sport 25m
Broke a footer at the crux at the second bolt, took a huge (painful) fall, and made a mess of one of my fingers. Climbed to the runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but my psyche was no longer there, my boldness pass for the day had expired, and I was tired. So I backjumped to the last ring and bailed. Might be pretty good, I just need to come back and see. The rock is a bit questionable.

 
Sun 22nd Sep 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area
20 Atomic Punk Mixed trad 25m, 5 Classic
Great to get back on this and simply enjoy it from start to finish. Bloody hard at the grade (half the 22s at Shipley are easier than this), but worth the effort. A classic, despite what I might have said on my previous onsight attempt.

 
22 Safety in Numbers Sport 25m, 5 Very Good
Probably 22 if its clean, for me it was covered in moss. Pretty contrived to stay out of the crack (I backstepped the wall twice, but only climbed the face itself). The lower 10m has some super-small gear (RPs) for moral support, but is balancy enough to be pretty sketchy. The top is better than you might expect, sustained and varied thinness. A bit wandery. My onsight ended at the 3rd bolt (the last hard move), I just sweated off the rail before I could finish the move. =(

 
Sun 22nd Sep 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area
23 Radios Appear Mixed trad 25m, 3 Very Good
The 2cm deep rope-wear line in the rock at the top explains why all the small holds are now tiny crimpy SLOPERS. My onsight ended at the first bolt 1/2 way up, struggling with the sequence on the crimp slopers. The new guide says 22, but this is definately mid-grade 23. The gear at the bottom is there, but spaced. 2 distinct thin and tricky cruxes, but sustained 20ish otherwise.

 
Sun 22nd Sep 2013 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area
19 Auntie Jack Mixed trad 27m, 1 Classic
Repeat. Good to get back on this (one of my very early trad leads) years later, and find it just as awesome as I remembered it. Kind of run-out, but never unsafe, but with some fiddly gear to keep it sane. Great, varied climbing. A climbers climb from start to finish.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 166 ascents.

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