Ascents in The Devils Circus

Spent too much time on the sloppery hold (wish it hadn’t been there) and if it wasn’t for that I may have onsighted. Much harder and cooler than Mr Redeemer.

Very moist and sticky indeed. And sharp

Really enjoyed trying this! Nice rock, cool moves, tough crimps ++

Moves done, new beta helps. Much better than last time I tried this. Now to refine and put it together.

First Oz 27. Took 6 visits over 12 months. Super rad route, cool moves, nothing too hard but putting it all together was a challenge. Made progress on each session with new high points and reduced from 3 to 2 to 1 sit.

Managed to do this slightly quicker than WOAF and used some good beta on the crux so can't see this being 28. Boulder-wise prob nothing harder than V3 (maaaaaybe the crux is V4 depending on sequence) but there is a lot of it

Very althetic moves all the way, that get slightly easier over time, although the start became more confusing?? (hint keep both heels on). Cool balance between maintaining body tension and cutting loose efficiently on the bottom half.

I avoided the nasty crimps on the crux by going direct in to the undercling. My method used a high R heel on the jug to get started then bump L from the wierd pocket up into the undercling (RF on blind ticked hold and high LF) but there are other ways possible. This is powerful but avoids the worst holds and in the end I just had to stick with a sequence rather than chop and change. Marginal kneebar (no pad) under the jug helped with recovery before the crux. Helps to extend some of the fixed draws in the middle section to improve the clipping positions.

The clean up tour continues. Almost first go but not quite.

I have once again (for probably the 15th time) learnt that climbing faster makes you less pumped. What gives?

Actually pretty good, even if it makes your hand bleed.

Eod shot melted off the top holds

Good re-introduction after the first session 2 years ago. Psyched to put some time in now

Happy to have set a first highpoint at the positive jug after the pinch move - too pumped to contemplate getting to and clipping the next draw. Struggled to the top after this as I dug deep to even get there.

EOD woof-fest

Woooooah, epic epic epic! So much climbing

Didn't know that it was possible to be so pumped and close to falling off for so long on a route this short.

Bouldery start through pockets to the upper crimpy headwall with some good rests.

Didn't have anything left after Mr Redeemer... Loved the sneaky pockets though, one to come back for

First exploratory lap, jugs galore through the roof to a pumpy finish

Bit of a surprise! Didn't feel like I did the start in the most efficient way, but managed to milk the rest up high for all it was worth before the crimpy headwall. Insanely fun route

Awesome climb, let’s see how many sessions it takes

feeling good - new beta for the top crimpy sequence

Psyched to get back to this soon

Pretty much everything was wet at Bell, but this was only damp (until after the permadraws, then it was proper wet)

Some fun moves jug hauling across the roof. It’ll go when it’s dry for sure

Powerful jugging. top was wet.

So much fun, extremely psyched to get on this again soon

I had a rather enjoyable time doing this climb, probably 23

Wow, very rad climbing. Got everything sorted to the headwall ish, then was too gassed for more. Need smaller shoes to do the 2nd clip via insecure heel, but the postion was fine.

3 more, high point and a one sit but need to come back to this route with much more PE. Great route that should be repeated more often.

3 more, high point and a one sit but need to come back to this route with much more PE. Great route that should be repeated more often.

3 more shots. Some good linkage, and probably seem more achievable than it has in the past. Awesome, compact, sustained power-endurance climbing on great rock. Much better than I remember.

Made great progress today. Did the top Boulder first shot easily( struggled on it for the rest of the day) then second shot linked to the top hueco but couldn’t clip and took the whip. Messed the third shot and too cooked on the fourth. Supa route but hard.

Fell at the tensiony move at the 3rd draw

Pumped out at the permadraw as the angle decreases and the jugs get a little smaller. Mega route, psyched to make this the end of winter proj

Hanging draws, all moves done. Absolutely mega

2 shots. With the epic beta spiel from Mitch, I flashed to the 3rd last bolt... but only managed to go one move higher on my second shot A radical start, followed by sustained juggy steepness, with a gnarly steep face-climbing finale on great rock (right when you're pumped to oblivion). But for the encouragement of my buddies, I would never have considered this ugly duckling worth getting on, and I would have missed out!

Clean repeat. Sharp and hideous... but awesomely steep and punchy. More fun than I remembered.

Second shot, the contrivedness of this route hurt my soul so I found some classic mitch beta.

Felt Brutal on the equip but did 50% of the moves some mega cool moves! will be back.