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Yesterday's Groove Area
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
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★★ Slaughter Falls
Major corner with a waterfall pouring straight over the top! Avoid like the plague after heavy rain or in winter. No trad required, but bring some longer draws to extend runners on pitch 3. This route was bolted and climbed in a day by the drill-masters.
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★★ Slackbladder
A monster sport route, with great exposed arete climbing on every pitch bar one. If you want to do the full route, rap in via Mirrorball and walk along base of cliff past Bucket Bunny and Hotel California' You can also just climb the last 4 pitches if you rap in down Yesterday's Groove. Equipped on a rainy night, the bolts seemed too far apart in the light of day, thus 4 more were added after the first ascent! If it's been raining avoid this route for at least a few days as a temporary waterfall blows onto the arete at pitch 5. Bring 20 draws, prussics or an ascender, double ropes and enough time! Start: Starts aprox 100m right of 'Hotel California' below major arete.
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★ Drybladder
A dry alternative to pitch 6 of to Slackbladder if the waterfall is running onto the main arete. A bit chossy but has plenty of bolts. Starts at bolted arete on right of chossy corner 5m right of Slackbladder' Delicately up the vegetation to first bolt, then bouldery first move to gain the arete on the right. Up the arete then out left above the roof and up face and arete to hanging belay at little cave (same belay as pitch 1 of Slackbladder). A couple of bolts were added after the first ascent - but it's still airy. |
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★★★ Yesterday's Groove
Major orange corner. Once a scary mixed route but heavily rebolted now.
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★★ Mild Peril
…with jug references. 'Steep' and juggy, Gets sun at 4pm Start: 100m right of yesterday's Groove at small right facing corner
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★ 50 year itch
trad corners leading to slab. Take big rack and some brackets. Start: About 120m right of yesterday's groove, scramble up to ledge and single U belay
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Probus
Thin face climbing variant finish, crappy bolts at one spot Start: On belay 3 of 50 year itch |
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★★★ Rutger Hauer
Brilliant face climbing on all pitches. All U-bolts. Start as for 50 Year Itch, 120m right of Yesterday's Groove. Best to leave gear at the col, scramble down and rap down Yesterday's Groove raps
To get off walk up and right to breach the second cliff line and then around and left to get to the col. |
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