Routes in Long Routes

Start: A blatantly obvious wide crack with 2 roofs on the first pitch. This is the first crack you will come to as you exit from dry creek bed approach. A small tree is directly in front of the start of the crack, and a rusty carabiner and old shoe mark the start of the climb.

1. 35m (18) Pleasant climbing up the wide crack, sling the occasional chockstone. Pull through roof on huge holds hand size crack to next roof, step left and up to comfy belay in sentry box.

2. 45m (18) Steeply out of sentry box on to wall, continue up wall via crack/flake to stance (steep for the grade). Short crack then corner to large sloping ledge, belay at large gum tree.

3. 40m (18) Rightward arching crack for a few metres to join leftward arching corner with large groove in the left wall. Up the corner then step left and continue up the groove to loose ledge. Traverse 5m left over big block to small stance directly under flake of pitch 4. Belay #3 and #3.5 friend in wall above ledge.

4. 35m (18) Pull on to wall using big ironstones. Vertical wall climbing using flake for gear for a few metres then the angle eases, ramble up to final headwall. If doing direct finish, belay from carrot bolts at base of wall, or if doing the original finish traverse right across wall to ledge and belay 10m before chimney.

5. 50m (16) Traverse into chimney/gully. Climb up until gully steepens then escape right along ledge to arete (belay). A few moves to top.

Vertical slab climbing over 150m of open air. Mostly protected by carrot bolts (take bolt plates) except for a few Cam placements to prevent run-outs. Rock is a bit brittle, currently graded 20, but will probably get harder as holds continue to break. With the last pitch of Weld Party 10 meters to right this may be more popular.....or less.

Start: On the ledge at the top of Pitch 4 of 'Serendipitous Cracks', go straight up the main wall following a line of carrot bolts, instead of traversing right and heading up the Chimney for pitch 5 of 'Serendipitous Cracks'.

Ground up attempt on crack system. Left facing corner 70m left of the start of Weld Party. P1. 30m. 20 Up the corner to semi hanging belay 3m below the roof. P2. 12m. 18M1 Up to roof, finger sized crack, traverse left, mostly aid till roof ends. Belay from gear under roof and single bolt slightly higher and left. Crack above is still unclimbed. Rap 40m to ground.

A fantastic mid grade multi, fully equipped with ringbolts and U's as a sport climb. 16 standard sport quickdraws plus whatever your usual multi harness requires. There is also potential to link pitches (if you could be bothered bringing that many draws) as it is a drag free wall. Wall gets sun in summer at 11:30 and earlier as winter sets in. Approach is now possible on foot as for Serendipitous Walls sector. It's the obvious route above you as you approach rap point for serendipitous wall, scramble up and left before the sketchy hill with grasstree. Can be combined with lower cliff for convenient multi-pitch. At top of climb walk up to higher terrace then right under small clifflet then back left up to Bald Head along vague trail to first saddle on left, where you had started serendipitous track.

1. 18, 30m

2. 18, 20m

3. 19, 30m

Starts several hundred metres right of 'Serendipitous Cracks', and about 100m left of the Hat Hill Creek waterfall. The climb is the small left facing corner crack in the middle of the steep yellow wall of sand, and is distinguished by two gnarled fig trees at the base of the corner.

1. 48m 18 Follow the horribly loose and chossy corner until you eventually reach a ledge liberally covered in large loose blocks and sand dunes. Calm down from the ascent then organise a retreat, using the dead, rotten tree, and a large slung flake that looks disturbingly loose.

Further pitches may be possible, but the territory looks steep and uncompromising, and the "rock" looks like it gets worse before getting better. Make sure you take double ropes if you intend to retreat (it's a full 50m rap).