Ascents in Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head

Quite an adventurous climb, worth a crack., starts up vegetated corner (cams) before first carrot, and a dusty rail traverse over to the arete. Some great arete moves on this long pitch! One of which I could not do , off the midway ledge. Some interesting route finding, off the ledges two times I traversed in from the far left. Mostly carrots but bring a single rack of cams to 3 and nuts.

A really nice and varied climb! Lots of scope to try different types of jams. Watch the small footholds. I blew 2 footholds on this climb. One caused me to take a fall (as a second).

Mega classic. Will be back to lead the 2nd pitch

Insane climb ! Not easy if you tall and full packed. Next time nacked and vaseline.

Top pitch is not really worth it. Rap off the rings.

A veritable waterfall. Shhh Pat, don't tell them we left booty...🤫

Telstar where to begin... well if you read the previous entry from Alex you'll get his recollection of the day so here is mine! It all started one night as we were flicking through the book and saw a photo of the climb, it looked outrageous and we were obsessed. Weeks earlier when arriving in the bluies I said I wasn't leading any trad with the exception of eternity. After leading this I was hooked on crack once again and this goal of telstar didn't feel impossible. You'll note from alex we started the day with a dead car battery and going to the wrong car park but eventually we made our way there. Gorgeous hike in with the muddy track providing a soft landing when I slipped and fell. Arriving at the base of the climb and looking up at this imposing roof crack, we had made it. Weeks of talk had finally turned into something, unlike bunny but who wants to clip bolts when you can go on wild trad adventures? I lead the first pitch, some committing moves and questionable rock but overall very engaging and fun. I got to the ledge below the first belay spot and could see the end of pitch 1, only a couple more moves and i was at the start of the bombay chimney. I opted to keep more right as it seemed the better option but quickly realised how wrong I was. I ended up too far right but couldn't down climb so I had to commit. I start climbing up and realise I'd be topping out on complete choss I was terrified. The foot holds disappeared and the 'hand holds' were large blocks that would fall off if I grabbed onto them. I committed to the scariest mantel onto choss yelling ROCK far too frequently. I got up and somehow was safe but then had to crawl to the left along the loose rock to where the belay was, somehow I had made it safely. Liam seconded this climb and then smashed out the next pitch. We went as two parties and Alex lead the first pitch so he go to join me at the belay spot, both trying to not knock off any more rocks as we navigated the choss pile. He watch me terrified to start the chimney and had the camera out to record it. Getting in was the hardest part but once I did I absolutely loved it. Finally the last pitch, what I'd been waiting for. A beautiful finger crack which was completely new terrain for me. I set off jamming and placed the 0.75 before taking my first whip on gear! I fell ending back at the hanging belay so ended up redoing it from the start and managed to send it! The best crack climb I've done so far, sustained and technical with beautiful moves. Getting to the top as the sun was shining and appreciating this amazing experience in the most beautiful place.

Liam and I enjoyed the view while waiting for Alex and Manu. We were starving and dehydrated but figured the others wouldn't be long... oh so wrong. Turns out while we were soaking in the sun they were having an epic! Manu fell off the chimney and it turned into a mission to get back on. 5:30 quickly turned into 8:30 and still no sign of them. We switched the radio on and alex responds just starting the last pitch, oh no this was going to be a long one. I respond 'onsight or whip' before waiting patiently. I wait where I though alex would top out yet he appeared on top of a pillar way too low. He responded 'I can't go any further the rope drag is too bad' as he tells me of the stuck cam and V1 boulder problem it took to get there. Much different to the chill scrambling I opted for but he had arrived just in time before light disappeared. Manu smashed out the last pitch in the dark and managed to free Alex's totem, it was almost gone forever. I then made a quick belay at where I'd topped out so Alex and manu could scramble over safely while being safe. Tired, hungry and dehydrated we powered on back to the car and DEMOLISHED the up&go's I had left in the car. Arriving back at camp around 11pm and demolishing pasta at midnight as we laughed at the day we had. THE BEST DAY EVER! The most amazing climb I've done and amazing friends share this experience again, 10/10 will do this again.

I don't know if what I climbed has just seen its first ascent, but for the self-preservation of prospective ascentionists and their belayers, I hope it's seen its last.

A grand adventure of strangely masochistic attraction, that follows whichever stack of hollow blocks appears to pose less chance of death.

Keen for pitch 2, but Zac's leading this next time 🙃.

with Moss, Greg Moore

Absolutely nails, but bloody brilliant. Usually quite spectacular rock, though some sections of choss. There were so many moves on this where I was almost off, but stayed on by the skin of my teeth. On the onsight I did the crux move as one of the most ridiculous V5 boulder moves I've ever done on rock, but later found out a smarter way of doing it via a hidden hold. Totally worthy, but very demanding.

Really enjoy this style of climbing, had to go for it at the start!

with Micky B - A big day out!

with Micky B - A big day out!

Superb. Technical/sustained thin crack.

with Dude

Spoilt by poor rock and rope drag. The direct may be better? One of the stiffest things I've ever done at the grade

Pumped senseless and a little bit frightened. 22 from the early 70's isn't exactly the same as modern routes of the grade.

Really good climbing from the first roof on. Perhaps a bit soft at 22, but quite daunting escaping the roofs. Take lots of hand size pieces, and lots of long slings. I managed to lock up my rope entirely between the rock and a BD #1 in the final roof, I had to rap down to free it before bringing Mic up.

Super fun. Two exciting roofs. The first is easier than the second, which involves some delicate chimneying on grotty gear til you get established under the roof, its thin jams and a low lip make it awkward to pull around. But once you escape the sweat dungeon you're rewarded with a superb splitter to the top. Must do!!!

I should climb trad more often, probably my 3rd route in 2 years. Awesome but nice and soft.

WOW - what an incredible route. Probably the best adventure trad climb I have been on in the Blue Mtns. You really have no idea what to expect on this one, can’t see much of that evil diagonal gash from the ground. Highly recommended to all trad frothers and gym climbers

awesome climb with bomber gear pretty much the whole way. has a bit of a sting in the tail!

Now I've done the ACTUAL Aladinsane (not the faux-Aladinsane). Great, varied climbing with oodles of gear, and only a single patch of crusty rock. No harder than 21, but worthy of its stars. Quite a few sections would be easy to botch, I think.

Really lovely! Well worth the effort to get out there. Probably a 21.

Wow!!! A whole lotta fingercrack! Lead the whole thing in three pitches. I recommend double .3-1 three .4-.75 and one each 2-4

Just the first pitch.

Very cool climb.

Love it! A few solid finger locks and technical climbing.

One of the best crack climbs in the mountains. Sustained on glorious rock.