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Route in Castle Head/Ruined Castle Ridge for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
14 Ruined Castle Ridge
1 14 25m
2 14 40m
3 8 5m
4 14 15m
5 5 15m
6 14 25m

A sketchy, poorly protected, and sometimes exposed climb out which is usually done after completing the Castle Head abseil route as an alternative to walking out. Be warned though, the final pitch is very poorly protected, exposed, and consists of mostly soft crumbly rock. If you can't make it up this then you will have to abseil back down and walk out. After pitch one the route essentially follows the centre of the ridge, with some questing and abyss hopping between pitches.

  1. 25m (14) Up crack one metre left of final abseil, and slightly right to tree belay. Alternatively, bypass this pitch by walking left under the cliffline towards Ruined Castle, then scramble right up the highest point of the ridge.

  2. 40m (14) Up vegetated crack system on right, mindful of loose boulders, then from ledge climb face or traverse left onto slab face and up. DRB chains.

  3. 5m (8) Step across slot, place a cam (mainly to protect second) then up for a few metres and on to rap anchor.

  4. 15m (14) Up face past a few rusty carrots. Anchor is 5m past top out, bolt plus tree.

  5. 15m (5) Grade nothing run out slab to bolt and tree anchor.

  6. 25m (14) Up exposed jug haul. Run out, some big pro, bad rock. DRB chains.

Mixed trad 130m, 6, 10

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