Ascents in Dumbo Love Sector

very very good

2 shots. A really rad route with a brief but intense crimp-crux. The continuation up the seam (from Cobra-Kai Connection) and the top headwall above the crux are wicked. On my 2nd shot I climbed everything clean in a push (27ish?) but for the crux, which I can do, but its so thin and sharp that I don't really enjoy it. Haven't decided whether or not I'll try this again.

Action packed fun, tired for the flash but fingers numbed at the crux. Didn't feel that hard second shot send until I got to the mantel...

2nd go

Super route. Lots of interesting bits. I had to work hard for it.

Gearing up.

4 laps piecing it together. Grotto hard-climbing comes to the Blueys. Very sustained and punchy in the first half, with an easier (but totally drop-able) 2nd half. I made pretty good progress with my highpoint being the last move of the main crux... but there is still a move through the roof which I personally find quite hard on link. Love the section from the pocket up the big flake.

Bolt to bolt up this at the end of day. Didn't do the last move of the corner sequence. This thing is so good.

A real gem!

Another lash figured out crux!

Final go! No glory then smoked getting to the top!

2 more laps. Was only planning to do a warm-up lap (and equip the route for Geoff), but felt so strong I had to give it another. Got some great overlapping linkage on the 2nd lap, but need to dial-in the move before the crux again to have any chance to send. The crux itself felt weirdly easy today. I'm keen for more time on this when I get back from America.

Just one lap. Managed all the moves with no real dramas. Pretty psyched!

An end of day play on this old nemesis of mine. On the 2nd lap I linked to the last move of the crux, then went from below the crux to the top. Maybe one day I'll link it

I suck. Sure, conditions were rubbish (the pocket was proper wet today), but I just couldn't seem to put this together despite not finding the moves that hard.

Full value route for 27 with a little bit of everything. Totally rad climbing up the overhanging flake feature. Definitely a pumper (aido I’m looking at you 😂). Not in pumpy shape but all moves went pretty easy with rest. Best shot linked to the roll out from the Gaston to the edge. Going to need to skip the clip on the red pint me thinks 🤔.

really rad!! pull the mono. mantle the earth

Two laps sussing the moves, couldn't do a long move in the middle to a pocket and it was too hot for the top crimps. Linked the start second shot but pumped out. The mono move is sick.

Was keen on this for a while but after wasting the first two laps climbing direct at the crux and struggling mentally with a foot placement I tried the slight R version, and did the move easy.

Not too bad third shot but pumped at the top. Fun route with a great mix of styles but cruxie.

3rd shot. In the style, at the grade, this is one of the better routes I've been on in the Blueys. Still room to clean up to perfection (needs more traffic), but even as-is it's just bloody great resistance climbing. Very sustained in the first half, and very technical in the 2nd. This whole wall really deserves more attention, especially as its in the shade all day!

Finally. 3rd shot of the day. 3rd day on and probably a dozen shots, way more than it should of taken. Pleasure of a route to climb.

Lots of climbing on this beast, even to the first anchor!

Juuust didn't have enough in the tank for the crux. Pulled back on and to the top.

To the low anchor x3. One of my favourite 26's around, just didn't have enough juice today.

Punting the crux over and over again..

Very cool line. Look forward to coming back for the send now the beta's sorted.

Brilliant and interesting climbing but with a very frustrating crux. I couldn't seem to work out what the difference was between me sticking the move and me falling off hopelessly. Worth some more effort for sure. (2)

All the moves with some links except latching the crux hold.

Awesome climbing

Good to get back on this after 3 months and be able to do all the moves with what you would call relative ease on this route 🤣 disgusting conditions

Warm up

cool cool cool. its good ol black magic on this wall

I linked the ground boulder for the first time on my first warm up today then kept on pushing, the flash pump was real. I almost dropped it at the anchors but I whimpered and whaled to get it done. Only 8 crux's..

Hard and classic all the way. [2]

Well that was humbling.

Really classic climbing just very sustained with multiple crux’s and a hard boulder start. 3 laps with mixed results but fun the whole time. The run outs aren’t as bad as they are made out to be but I did take a 10m whip when I pumped off the achour.

This whole wall is very impressive, under rated and makes a great alternative to the main wall at the pit. I will be back...

Yeah, the grade is kind of a joke (call it solid/hard 27?), but the climbing bloody sustained and radical. Super varied, unrelenting, and spicy enough to keep you on your toes. I had a moment next to the anchors where I thought I was going to take Jenga's monster whip from last weekend before I found the correct hold. This seems like a route that would take me a while to tick, but it's probably worth it (provided one isn't interested in grade-chasing).

2 laps. Inarguably the hardest 26 in the Blueys, and a contender for one of the most sandbagged routes around... but damn it's awesome. Super sustained, with lots of hard bouldery moves, separated by no rests

Got some better linkage on the 2nd lap (despite being tiiiiired), and sorted the start boulder. Need more laps for efficiency to Send, and a few tablespoons of cement for doing the top runout when pumped to blazes.