Ascents of EIEIO

Worked the beta again first burn. 2 attempts afterwards which couldn't hold the sweaty crux hold.

On the warm up! felt good on the lower section, kept going and magic happened ✨️

Rad. Couldn't stick the crux move but the rest climbs v nicely

Project open. Let’s see how this goes 🤘🏼

Second shot. Great way to finish the sesh👌

Made some good links and worked out a couple of resting beta.

Exploratory burn. All moves done, is there a good rest somewhere as this is such a pumper?

Hail Mary. Top is easier in not 30 dev temps, crux is still bloody nails though.

Bloody sweaty condies but made some progress thanks to some micro beta for the pretzel move from Steph Hart. Tape job saved the left index from the pocket this time. All moves done, be good to give it a red point go when it’s not so sweaty!

Bittersweet. But it's done. Change of crux beta two sesssions ago was surely the most important bit. Then also small change of footwork at the last hard sequence.

Pretty bloody good for a bit if a squeeze job. Couldn’t figure the crux first go but found a sequence that worked after watching a few others. Pre-tape the base of my index finger next time!

Keen to come back to this. Did the moves but no beans to send

Dear Diary, today I fell after the crux.

One more (weak) day; two more doubts. Have I been doing the crux wrong?

Same same.

Warm (too warm?) say. I guess I matched the highpoint (left crimp) and the low point (from crux included). But really not much progress

Steps back.

Did the crux as a big throw. Sets you up nicely to exit the crux, but quite powerful.

Drop knee beta feels much more repeatable.

Climbed to the crux and had a nothing go at it. Room for improvement in the bottom half. Enjoyed it more than I expected too, pretty keen to work on this

Back on a warmish day to see if I rememebr the beta. I kind of do, and in fact fell at the usual spot.

It's been a while since I've put some consistent effort into doing one climb - 5-6 sessions. This one was interesting, felt like it came together quite quickly and just needed to keep throwing myself at it to stick the low % crux and take it to the top (and a 18v Milwaukee fan to dry the seeping jug).

The best sends are when you and your mate both send the same project on the same day whilst belaying each other. Thanks for the memories Cobba.. and the massive victory whip to the second bolt!

three working laps. falling off getting through the crux.

One more day, one more hold. Time to leave.

Tearing a finger tip apart on a slippery day.

Kind of a high point; kind of a low point. Hands get very cold at rest before crux...

got it in two sections, with a sit before the crux.

Best links were ground -> 2 moves into crux; crux (included -> anchors). Still work to do for rest and crux but some progress.

Trying to make some big links (easy to crux; still finding the top tricky, though; last move of crux still an issue). Not sure how to tape that left index finger...

6 shots over two days getting better!

Stupid new system Error on my behalf I did not send

Some links. Set for a functional beta. The sensation is that the last easier bit will be my big problem.

x2