Ascents of The Cramps as Hang dog

Next time!!

Warm-up. Did the bouldery start 2nd go but ran out of gas for the next crux halfway up.

Got the bouldery start but fell on the middle crux.

Tough start that is hard to read. Got the moves but couldn't string them together. The rest of the climb is sensational sustained fun.

The sun hit and the holds got spoogy. lots of pinning off.

more fun and techie than ToN, got all moves dialled but screwed the top crux on second attempt and didn't have time for 3rd try because of rain.

Nails start! Once you work the sequence out (which took a while... magic word here is KNEE-BAR!) it's doable... the rest easier but probably tough to do in one go... project...

Got the moves…..

In the sun, was sweating more on this than in the sauna at Leura

Beta to remember:

Ground to second bolt seems to be a knee bar(?) Alternatively, watch the wide feet to the left

From the second bolt, went (1) right foot and right hand to the right side, (2) switch foot and go left hand, (3) go right hand to the jug.

Crux in the middle with match hands and undercling to the left.

From the last bolt to the chains head way left.

Beta to remember "Ground to second bolt":

Left knee bar from the pinnacle on top of the tree towards the left under the rock (use undercling hands here for stabilisation).

(1) Reachy left hand move (no need to pull) to left chalky hand hold (flag right leg for stabilisation).

(2) Right hand crimp below the second quickdraw.

(3) Left hand shouldery hold.

(4) Right hand bump into second crimp.

(5) Right hand to the various holds in the right.

(6) Dead-point right hand up to rail (the further right the better this rail)

(7) High right foot into big chalky jug to the right, and rockover, to reachy right hand on the next rail up (small rest here).

(8) Right hand on to the top of the chalky hold in front, and left-foot rockover (quite high), for a reachy-left shouldery handhold (big rest here).

Beta to remember "Crux in the middle":

(1) Easy layback to the left, then three-finger right-hand hold in the middle, undercling with the left-hand straight below this one. Then, move right hand way to the right, and move left hand up to the three-finger hold.

(2) Move right foot, and right hand way to the right up (it is possible to keep left foot static to the left if quickdraw already placed), clip.

(3) Grab the good rail to the middle.

(4) Up big crimp with right-hand, then up and left with left-hand to crimp, and up and right with right hand to crimp. Move right feet up, and go with right hand into the next crimp to the right, and then big rail up, to clip.

To clip last bolt before chains, head way right. But then go back to the corner of the cave for left undercling, then easy up right to jug.

Bouldery hard start then very fun climbing