Showing all 38 nodes.
Node |
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Flying Fox Area
Mostly old school run out trad from 1970 with a few newer routes, and sport lines described as being in "lower Pole 28". |
14
The Underworld
Start: Leftmost climb of cliff on left side of The Underworld
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16 M1
Cerberus
Start: Corner marked C, 8m right of The Underworld
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17
Orpheus Arete Variant
A variant end to Orpheus Arete. From Orpheus Arete anchor 1 move left and up weakness in centre of wall. |
15
Orpheus Arete
Start: 30m right of Cerberus. Old Description
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14
Embossed Carbuncle
Start: 15m right of Orpheus Arete.
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15
Fibbertigibbet
Start on big block 2m right of Embossed Carbuncle.
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10
Who's Lead?
Start: 5m right of Fibbertigibbet at corner vegetated with ferns, shrubs and trees. #Historical This corner has returned to its naturally vegetated state and has no further need to be cleaned or climbed.
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13
Time Out
Start: 5m right of "Who's Lead?" at blunt arete marked TO.
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18
★ Copernicus
Start: Marked C at orange left-leaning corner. Originally 17 with "peg used for handhold", subsequently freed on the fine first pitch.
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17
★★★ Tycho Brahe
Not in 1992 guide, probably cracks in orange wall but have to ask Butch. |
14
Transvestite
Start 13m left of 'Psycho Arete'.
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10
★ Psycho Arete
Start: Marked PA just left of arete below small corner. Appeared to originally climb departed tree. Ascend corner or traverse in low from the right. Plenty of pro for the first 20m, thereafter plenty of jugs but unknown.
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13
Megalomaniac
Start marked M. New description Straight up from the mark to the lower gum with a lump on it. 5m grade 2 ledges then another 10m grade 3 jugs with pro past a block to a crusty carrot. Opportunities for pro now reduce with elevation. 10m to a wilted carrot, over which with a spicy mantle, then run it out to the tree. Short corner to cliff top. Original description
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8
Hair
Start: 3m right of Megalomaniac.
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8
Skinhead
A varient start to Hair. Start 7m left of Riff-Raff.
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8
Riff-Raff
Start 7m left of No Time Climb.
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11
No Time Climb
Start 13m left of As You Like It.
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12
As You Like It
A variant start to Nymphomaniac. Start 13m left of it at orange chimney/crack marked A.Y.L.I.
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18
As You Like It Direct Start
A variant start to As You Like It, start 2m right of it.
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13
★ Nymphomaniac
Start marked N, 3m left of The Homo.
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12
The Homo
(They certainly don't name 'em like they used to! - Ed.) Start 2m left of Sultry.
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12
Sultry
Start 3m left of Aquarius.
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8
★ Aquarius
Start 7m left of Deceptor Arete.
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Descend shale below red overhangs marked by white painted arrow to blocks and gap at -33.67943, 150.
Descend shale below red overhangs marked by white painted arrow to blocks and gap at -33.67943, 150.27551 Scramble left through blocks and down loose path to tree for ~12m rap to bottom. Beware shute below is full of loose debris and rockfall. |
12
Deceptor Arete
Start 13m left of old rap route.
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11
Blowfly
"Not great." (Owens). Start marked B, 3m right of old rap route.
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15
★ Contemplation
Start 2m right of Blowfly.
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7
Inexperience
Start: Marked I, 47m right of Contemplation at chimney/corner visibly separated from cliff at top. Deep chimney with more dirt the deeper you go, and little pro toward the light. Old Description
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16 M2
Delilah
Start: Unmarked, 2m right of Inexperience. Old aid crack jammed with ferns with no tree to bridge. Probably now unclimbable apart from potentially run-out arete. Old Description
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20
Crankenfurten
Start: At crack right of Delilah. Sport Route: 10 bolts to lower-off. A funky and gymnastic route with a thoughtful crux. Starts at a flared groove in the yellow wall. Up groove for several metres then onto left wall, up through thoughtful blocky bulges on nose (after clipping 6th bolt, unclip 5th for less rope drag) then aesthetic grey & orange face to lower-off. |
19 R
★ Home Birth Babies
Start: Unmarked, 4m right of Crankenfurten. No doubt already climbed. Easy 7m crack then hand/fist crack 10m to ledge under chimney. Top is somewhat vegetated chimney, or climb grey walls either side to tree belay. |
18
★★ Something Borrowed
Start: Marked SB. This may have been mistakenly-labelled as Spellbound at Valley Farm. Twin hand cracks and flared offwidth squeeze leads to open-bottom bomb-bay chimney. Up this then escape left up jugs to tree belay. |
17
★ Easy To Be Hard
Start: At steep orange corner 10m right of SB.
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CC
Start: Marked CC. Broken orange overhang with flakes and cracks, that continues up through grey juggy wall above. May have been a few moves of aid in the thin crack? Cram it with small stuff and soldier up, or lay away the flake. |
9
Easy Day
Start: Grey-green corner marked ED 20m right of CC.
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11
Escapism
Start 27m right of Easy Day below short corner near forked tree.
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Continue right facing cliff to Three Brothers descent gully.
Continue right facing cliff to Three Brothers descent gully. |
Showing all 38 nodes.