Nodes in Valley Farm

The cliffline that runs underneath 'The Sunbath' area, away from the Coliseum and towards 'Sooty Crag'. An old neglected area with only a few newer climbs. Inspect all ancient (1965) pitons and bolts before launching into an adventure with a potentially insecure ending. Old climbs are difficult to identify from lack of marking and obscure descriptions.

The following climbs start on the halfway ledge at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

Starts off the far left end of the ledge which is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

Starts halfway out the ledge that is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

The following climbs start at the bottom of the cliff. Look for remnants of stone walls and cuttings on this wider part of the old track that provided access to the Valley Farm.

"Not good" (Owens) Start 30m left of stairs in small corner.

1. 13m slight corner, right and up to bush.

2. 17m, easy to right of steps.

5m left of All Sorts. Finishes on ledge at 3 carrot belay of 'Virgins with Rifles'. You will need minimum 4 bolt plates.

Round the corner from 'Bus Stop Boxer'. Start in the right corner under the overhang. Climb up through the crack, and out the top.

To the left of 'Bondi'. Start standing on the rock under the overhang. Quite a lack of feet at the start of the climb (hence the name). Possible start from the ground, but might be very hard. Climb out the top.

Start: In corner 33m left of All Sorts.

1. 13m, corner/chimney to dead tree.

2. 17m, corner, traverse right on to wall and up to ledge (bolt belay).

3. 13m, up.

Start 10m left of Centaur.

1. 20m (12) wall and thin crack.

2. 33m, gully to right.

Wide gully and watercourse here.

Start: In chimney 50m up right wall of big gully which is 73m left of Anonymous.

1. 13m (8) chimney to tree.

2. 17m, gully/corner.

Start: 8m left of gully

1. 13m (9) up to bolt belay.

2. 17m, up.

Start: In chimney/corner 30m left of Fruitless.

1. 20m (crux) up to bolt runner, traverse right and up to piton and bolt belay.

2. 13m, traverse right, up break in overhang and back left to bush.

3. 14m, through bulge with piton runners and slight crack on right to top bolt belay.

Start below left leaning ferny crack about 25m right of Rubber Soul. Trend right up line of least resistance via grey slabs and slight crack to small tea tree below final short corner. Spaced slings, stoppers in notches and cams in breaks for the bold leader.

Start: 5m right of Revolver.

1. 26m, rising left traverse to orange corner, tree belay.

2. 30m (crux), crack left of corner, back into crack and up to roof. Traverse left and up wall.

Start: 50m left of Trog.

1. 20m, wall to tree.

2. 20m, wall to tree.

3. 10m (14), traverse under overhang, up crack.

Start: 20m left of Rubber Soul

1. 13m, easily up to bolt belay.

2. 27m (crux) mantle above bolt runner, traverse left and up crack.

The wall left of Hard Day's Night. Straight up the wall to reach L into a wide crack. Up onto small ledge then follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

Just left of Running Gun Blues is this overhung orange wall with prominent flake feature in the middle. The line was bolted some time in the '80/90s with bash-in carrots and hangerless expansion bolts but didn't appear to have been climbed (lots of loose rock). It has now been cleaned, rebolted and brought back to life. Crux can be done two ways - the left version is easier but more spicy.

"...but I am rather the fallen angel, whom thou drivest from joy for no misdeed."

An engaging journey up an impressive orange wall. Use the ramp to the right to access the ledge as for Frankenstein, then surge up the engaging slab to a good stance where the wall changes angle. Steel thyself for three confounding cruxes which diminish in difficulty as you approach the anchors high on the vague arete. It is wise to take long draws and extend a few bolts.

The excellent major arete left of the bolted orange wall. Up the arete and wall carefully past the nose then up the slabby arete to a small ledge. Crux past this and series of bouldery ledges to lower-offs. Originally finished left into the corner and topped out on trad.

Major corner with several bushes sprouting from it just to the left of Street Legal. There are two old carrots about halfway up - possibly a belay - and a ledge with white Eucalypt below the final overhang, from which exit stage left. The crack ranges from narrow chimney to offwidth and presents the opportunity for an old school epic.

Start: Major crack line just left of corner.

An old Thrutch (after 1972) mentions "a superb face crack" and has a photo of Greg Child on the second ascent, however Keith couldn't remember it when asked. This route may have been confused with another at Flying Fox.

Crack is vegetated with ferns, and gets thinner higher up, and has one old carrot at a little roof about half way up.

Face 10m left of Mystery Corner. Rock quality is a bit crap and it needs a brush. There are five old hangerless carrot bolts - one that has a bail biner fixed to it. Start up short corner crack (trad) then through small bulge (first bolt) and up face above past numerous bolts and some bomber medium/large cam slots. Double BRs on top but no way of walking off.

Another previously unrecorded route. Chiseled initials below short section of orange thin cracks leading to steep corner and small roof. There is a line of rusty carrots leading right along the lip off choss to the right of the steep corner as well.

Start with an 8m section of steep layback crack on trad (hand/fist sized cams) then traverse left onto sustained bolted face. 70m rope required for lower-off.

Start: 90m left of Hard Days Night at small left-leading corner under huge chimney marked SC.

1. 13m (crux) steep left leading flake (ignore random FH with project tag from the 90s), then bushbash right to base of huge chimney.

2. 14m, chimney to roof, traverse along roof, over lip and into slot.

3. 30m, chimney/corner to roof, along and over. Corner, left, up.

Prominent bolted arete. Climb up wooden rungs screwed into tree to gain rock. Trend right across grey face then launch up arete above. This was another route that had been sniffed at by someone decades ago - there are old carrots on a ledge about 10m from the top, an old battery stashed in a cave and a bolt with a faded project tag down the bottom near start of Stonkered.

Arnold Lane, had a strange .. hobby, collecting clothes, moon-shine washing-line .."

Start: 10m left of SC [Stonkered] in an overhung flared chimney. Obvious break in overhung wall.

1. (25m) (crux) Pull up into chimney - hard move to get established - then with increasing difficulty out of chimney. Pull onto ledge. Up small corner, then trend left up slab to base of scrubby chimney.

2. (25m) Up chimney, dive into chlorophyll and easily up corner and crack etc. to top.

Ignore reto-bolted FH with project tag and stainless carrot above.