Routes in Janicepts Area

The splitter line 3m L of Amen Corner, initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains (which are a bit outdated).

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope will get you to the ground on stretch).

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send. Start 60m left of Skypilot. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base.

1. 25m 21 Awesome orange corner crack to DRB (replaced 2013 - P.T)

2. 15m The chimney above is usually not done.

Start 26m left of TJ. Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

Start 9m left of P, 2m R of Amen Corner.

1. 27m (18) Up to traverse line, right, up flake to bolt. Right to traverse line then to arete. Up.

2. 22m (19) Up left to crack.

Start just left of the thin crack 10m down and R of Amen Corner (as for VotD). Up to roof and flake. Up. Traverse left to break, then up. Roof then up to ledge. Up.

Quote "One nasty fall off the initial thin crack saw ripped RPs and the leader bouncing down the slabs below the starting ledge, resulting in nasty injuries." If you trust RPs in Blueys rock you need a reboot. Either boulder boldly or use a high runner in Amen Corner. Take care.

Start as for Thin Time but take the right line of bolts up orange face, through bulge and up snappy black face above. Was originally graded 24 - and appears to still be a sandbag at 25 considering the lack of successful ascents on this site!

Start 5m left on left side of arete.

Start a few metres left of Whores du Combat, up a move, traverse left and up. Rings all the way (rebolted 2006).

Start as for Psychodrama. At half height where P goes left, crimp madly direct.

Start 2m left of The Kraken.

Start left of TT at cairn. Up then left around arete.

Climb the face 3-6m R of Amen Corner. Start as for Minotaur. Joins Psychodrama for a few bolts in the middle then heads back left. Mostly (dodgy old) carrots, take brackets. Same lower-off as Amen Corner.

Start 10m left of Taboo (7m left of the waterfall).

1. 36m (-) Dirty wall and up to the pillar leaning against the headwall.

2. 16m (19) Up the headwall past 1 bolt.

Start as for Idiot. Drop down, traverse left then up.

Start as for The Kraken. Takes the steepish wall 3-4m R of The Kraken. Check if it's still got bolts; there was talk of debolting this one.

Start from belay 1 of The Minotaur. Right to flake and up.

Start 5m left of TB. Grey groove to arete and up. Corner and gully.

9m L of PL. Up. right to rest. Up, then to arete and stance. Up.

4m L of VP. 3 pitches. Aid. Vegetated.

Start as for Psychodrama - with great caution. Up crack and traverse right. Up to rounded knob at start of The Minotaur's traverse. Straight up finishing as for TM.

4m left of Idiot anchor. Middle of the wall, corner and wall.

Good thin face climbing protected by good thin gear. Climb Janicepts to the height of its pod then move slightly right and straight up wall above following a thin crack feature, finishing back L to Janicepts' anchor.

The wide broken chimney 10m left of K.

1. 12m (12) To ledge and tree.

2. 33m (12) Bridge tree to traverse left, up left past scrubby ledge.

3. 13m (12) 'Gully'.

Not great rock! Start 6m left of TJ.

Start as for Thin Time. The right hand route.

There is usually a waterfall trickling down the slabs. About 20m off the ground, there are two parallel cracks a few metres right of the waterfall. The second pitch of Taboo takes the left crack. Start 3m R of the waterfall.

1. 20m (- M1) Up to roof and get over it using small trees for aid. Move R then up to small ledge beneath left crack.

2. 30m (15 M1) Aid to get started, then up the obvious crack to the top.