Routes in Cottage Boulder

Popular and dry pumper. Climb Flaming Youth then continue direct up the overhung wall to top of boulder.

Wide crack 13m right of Flaming Youth. Take big cams including a #6. Climb crack to cave, right and up unprotected 10m++ arete to old bolt belay on top.

Well chalked overhung route up right side of north face of boulder. At the half way height bail right onto arete (the direct finish is Leanings).

Left to right traverse of the north face along the horizontal break feature. Originally done in two pitches. The first is sport and finishes at hidden rap chain above Flaming Youth. The second is poorly protected trad and is rarely done.

Start: 27m right of O. Opposite the main cliff.

Starts for Disinclined for 2m then up groove and corner on left edge of wall. Don't underestimate the last couple of moves - it's steep!

Disinclined traverse for 3 bolts then up the middle of the orange overhung wall skirting the edge of the grey rock up high. Finishes left through amazing steep jugs (shared finish with Freedom Day).

Pump through the guts of the wall finishing with a spicy crimp and some of the best jugs around. Climb BBB for three bolts, then right and up centre of wall to eventually finish as for last bolt of Cant. Equipped during the dying days of the multi-month Covid lockdown of 2021.

Starts 11m right of Flaming Youth on sloping shelf 5m above ground. Up to holds, diagonally left to break, up to nasty PR. Finish up very easy grey slab. Two stars in the old guide but probably very dangerous.

Climb Abra Cadabra to break about 10m up, then left and up short orange wall past bolts to finish up easy grey slab.

Start: Just left of the boulder descent route. Take care!

Small orange corner under roof 11m right of Abra Cadabra. Up to roof, left and up arete. Take care with pro.

Start: Right of C.