Pants-pooping traverse and upper overhang (P2) despite being on the blunt end. Cracking P1, of which I remember the start, done with Peter Martland or not, definitely around '80, not '18.
First route in the Bluies and it’s a trad one. Fun climb but after a while off the rocks and a huge week and illness I felt like I had to fight for a few moves but sure it would go easy if I was feeling better.
Always rated and enjoyed this one, seconding Jack and checking his gear. It was blowing an absolute gale at the anchor; bloody freezing doing this just as it was getting dark.
Last lead at least 43 years ago with bare head, bare hands, bare feet a few trusty hexes on blue and silver cord and some pink hand-tied slings. Can't remember it being hard, strenuous or anything other than straightforward, all I can remember is Sebco yelling out from below "Don't fall now Lep!' from which I infer some length of rope between me and my last piece. Seconded today in the manner of a panting old dog, in only slightly less time than it took the little girl nearby to lead Eternity on pre-placed gear. Come on old man, the past is long gone but you're not too old. And the future is now.
Tried onsighting, but when I got to 1/3 of the route I realised I wouldn't have the right size gear to get all the way to the top, came back down and then top roped after. I'm by no means a trad climber, but I could have easily used 4 yellows and 3 to 4 reds, maybe some big nuts could have reduced that.
one quick lap before rushing through traffic
