Routes as trad in Catch the Wind Area

A proud, overhanging crack on great rock. Should really be a trade route for the Tradsters out there.

It is fairly easy to find the top of this route. Do the normal approach as for CTW but when you get towards the cliff edge head generally to climbers left until you get to the very obvious major corner that is just around from the far left hand end of the CTW amphitheatre.

The start is impenetrably overgrown, but it's very easy to fix an abseil rope off a few trees at the top and rap down to a huge, gear-protected belay ledge 5m above the ground. When you are fixing your rope it is worth noting which side of the crack you want to rope solo out on if you are choosing that option. Fix to a number of small trees on the climber's right if you want to climb the vertical face on better rock but with harder moves, or off massive trees on the left if you want to climb the easy but choss corner.

Bring a double rack of 0.4 to 4, and small-medium wires. A #5 is also highly recommended. Don't forget 2 x bolt plates for the belay at the end of P1 (that might be worth backing up with your rap line).

1. 40m (21) The rather obvious left-leaning overhanging corner crack.

2. 20m (18) Climb the slab right of the crack by self-belay on the rap rope, or boldly on gear. Alternatively, jumar out.

Arete 40m left of 'Catch the Wind'. Follow faint path underneath amphitheatre to Arete or rap 40m down route from top anchors.

Rebolted March 2016.

Stick clip new ring and aid your way to hanging belay. (best to have belayer on the ground).

1. 20m (23) Thin, balancy traverse to 'Arete' then up to DBB passing 4 more bolts and cam (0.5 C4).

2. 10m (25) Up face following 2 rings to start of crack. Up spectacular overhanging seam (past old FH, possibly not needed) to lip and up a long way to DBB.

Excellent route to fill in your day when climbing at 'Catch the Wind'. Pitch 1 is nearly a sport route if you're brave (ground fall), otherwise take a 0.5 C4 cam for the horizontal slot.

Arete 40m left of 'Catch the Wind'. Follow faint path underneath amphitheatre to obvious Arete.

Rebolted March 2016.

Stick clip new ring and aid your way hanging belay. (best to have belayer on the ground).

From hanging belay - Thin, balancy traverse to 'Arete' then up to DBB passing 4 more bolts and cam (0.5 C4).

One of the very best moderate cracks in the Bluies. Some connoisseurs even prefer this to the mighty Janicepts. It is likely that this is the reason you came here.

Start a couple of metres to the right (facing in) of the rap line. The obvious corner crack!

1. 15m (21) Up corner to roof and left to comfy belay. Often seeps.

2. 30m (21) Three dimensional joy. Stem, chimney, pirouette, and jam to glory.

Sustained, varied, and technical climbing up the obvious closed corner with fixed hangers at the start and a trad crack above. One bolt plate required for first bolt, and two for the bolt belay at the top.

Starts at corner on right end of half-way ledge. (Just right of rap line). Crack/pillar to ledge. Take wires and small cams.

Back to ground level. Start at the obvious crack/fault line between the rap and the waterfall.

1. 15m (16) Up crack. Is now overgrown.

2. 25m (16) Traverse right and up wall.