Ascents in Mount Victoria Area by Doug having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Ordinary start and finish, perplexing middle. Not a modern 25. Hard DS.

R/X? Not even close. A distinct lack of holds the whole way. It's hard and a long way to the first bit of gear. A couple of blank imaginary sidepully, high smeay, reachy cruxes after that. Bring skin and fresh feet.

Feet and modern shoes. Direct into Wazzakstan works too. Little harder, way scarier.

3 fun thin bouldery moves of 23 and then pleasant rambling with good gear. Direct start is slightly easier but not quite as engaging.

Topo is wrong. All share the same start, or start CSD. Can go very slightly independent of CS at 1st break with what looks like a good wire and nice climbing (but slightly worrying ledge of Lishenback). Well protected, sustained crux with just enough good holds. R foot 3" higher than obvious is key for the not tall people.

Great delicate, insecure climbing. Bit of a softy? No hard pulls or killer crimps really, with some fun sidepulls. Direct over the bolt works and is easier than trending left. Just the right amount of gear. Doubles could help. Don't pull off the block that's partly gone. Most of the 21s around here are as hard. Congrats to Ant & Ben (160 Vic) for the send. Deserves way more attention.

R. 20 year re-visit. Start is as bad as I remembered. Traverse low to stay close to the ground. Alright after the 1st bolt. Pumpy into cruxy undercling mono deadpoint. Pleasant sustained slabbing in-between with the fun EW finish.

Yes the 1st pitch is icky and a bit hard but the 2nd pitch is the money. So airy and take just 1 or 2 smallish cams...not a full rack! Typical summer arvo from smoke-filled, baking 28C to 15C, heavy mist and massive windchill. As noted this does the Screen Gems crux and then some. Multi-ing is a good option and yes you can walk off.

Not a sandbag, just proper 22. Not a warm-up though. Boulder start and then very pleasant locks and jams.

Groundfall with bonus ledge fall. Spectacular edging with an unexpected nails crux. Lack of traffic means it will need a brush, probably best to rehearse anyway. Loses one star for old bolts, dirt and potential serious injury. Start in the middle of the wall is slightly better/easier. Good warm-up for Age of Reason?

21-25 height dependent. 22/23 for most. Multiple cruxes and nice movement. Tricky OS, specific beta takes out a lot of the sting. Stick clip first bolt for a sport route. Very well bolted.

More perfect ringlocks in 15m than the rest of the blueys, with one all-in there crux move. Taped knuckles, comfy shoes, and 0.5s.

Typical blueys.

I guess gear is optional if you don't fall off. Obvious cam placements and maybe a wire or two. Doesn't need extra bolts and the crux is well protected. Doesn't seem R. Will have to tie in and see.

Sport route with optional cams. Some delicate arete moves. Start is more pleasant than it looks. Probably still soggy at 18. Nose-butting sharp edges not recommended, chunky gusher.

Who am I to argue it's classic.

25 year repeat. Less gear than I remembered but not as pumpy.

Nice climbing made engaging just by being on decent spaced gear with those bomber nuts to finish. Very, very soft for the grade with the crux off the ground and before the bolt.

Fun slightly overhanging edge pulling. A bolt or two less would increase the flow. Small but active wasps nest in the hole makes for some judicious circumvention.

E grade slab that's more engaging than it looks. Burly headwall that keeps on givin'. Deserved 3 stars.

Better and harder than it looks. A little speccy. The flake to the left was super fun but a big chunk of it might not stay.

The best pitch of 19 in the mountains? Sutained splitter with good gear. Too much sport climbing makes the crux last 5m the easiest bit. Didn't do 2nd pitch - needs small gear to rps; looks fun but an easy rap after the money pitch makes an easy choice.

Is this edgy and dull direct?. Fun through the bulge. Easy but sparsely protected finish.

Nice climbing and positions; don't know what Geoff's on about. 1st climb with people since covid.

Great warm-up. Fun easy hands to cool traverse all with good gear. Easy but slightly runout slab. Rap off the tree down the gully with care of rocks. Drop the ropes down the gully rather than toss. Lots of trees for ropes to wrap around

Strong line. Pretty steep with long pulls and big flat edges, Pumper.

Lower-offs to the left.

sporty without the one bit of gear.

classic and sustained at grade.

fun top-out