Routes in Mount York for selected grade

Start as for Jargon. Up hard wall to cavey ledge. Rap.

Start: On the right side of the gully coming down. Hideous looking carrots.

Start as for RotTCG, left and up. 3 rings and gear.

Great climbing the whole way but barely adequate trad gear in the first half.

Start: Start 1m R of Lishenback.

Independent face just left of Birds Nest. A bit of trad down low and several bolts up high (carrots and hangers).

Great climb on some really weird rock ... Well worth it. Was once carrots, since retrobolted with rings.

All bolts removed 13/5/2019

Right from Engineering Feats. The left side of the arete before the 'Exhibition Wall'.

Serious direct start to Crystal Palace starting below arete of Iron in the Soul

Very thin and technical. Used to have only 2 carrots. The line of rings beneath EW, joining Exhibition Wall halfway. The retrobolt still retains the need for small slcd's.

Definitely perhaps ... A far more sociable version of the route. Alternate easier highball start to AoR via SF on right side of wall. Up as for SF to break and traverse left to good gear at left of break as for first gear on AoR. Continue up following breaks then up. Cams and wires. Optional sling.

Start pretty much as for SF, on face left of SF mark avoiding fragile flake arête as much as possible. Get good first gear on left at first main break. At second break instead of heading R on bolts (SF) head up to cam pod and up following obvious crease. Climbing eases towards top. Either runout or various snall/medium RPs or similar and medium and small cams. Offsets in both may help.

Route and gear placements sussed out on abseil, and climb TR'd a number of times before finally being lead. Feel free to improve on style but be careful!

Note: 2015 BM guide topo is incorrect. The line shown for SF is actually this line.

Start on right edge of wall at mark.

Up face, avoiding rather fragile thin flake edge, to break and first gear then continue up to next break before heading right and up following carrots with good #000 C3's instead Up to to break and gear; old school opposed wires or even just a hex. Continue up using as many small brass nuts as you can place to avoid needing the top two bolts.

Has be done just on gear as described after gear inspection and rehearsal, but feel free to improve on this. Bolts are in fine condition (2016) and this climb should not ever be retro bolted.

Note: Topo in 2015 BM guide is wrong, see 2010 edition instead.

Start as for Age of Rubber. Follow till bolts but ignore them, if possible, heading right to gear at third bolt and finishing up DF. Possible to use a high gear placement on Age of Reason to avoid runout. Cams, wires, RPs and optional sling.

Exactly!

Start: 7m LEFT of TDotSPF.

As for RD for first two bolts, then trend further left and up to 'breaking wave' finish.

As for MP, moving left after first bolt and up steep face. Great.

The glorious arete. Starts 1m right of the huge 'MP' marking.

2m right of Silly Chimney. Bolts.

U-bolts up steep corner, but break out left around the arete.

Steep classic on good rock and rings all the way. High first bolt can be supplemented with small cam in a break, or a long stick clip from first ledge if you wish.

Start: 4m right of M.

Starts 1m LEFT of of the FR initials - all ringbolts. Awesome pockets to start then butt hard move through bulgy arete and long pump to the anchors. If you scare bring a bolt plate for the old carrot after the crux.

To ledge, around overhang, up left then up.

Start: 4m right again.

From right of slab, head to slot crimp, left yellowish rail, if previous 2 break - go higher, then across, then jug finish of RC.

Start on 2 crimps, pop up to line of rails and traverse out to jugs for top match.

Start as for Wolfgang low and move up to the horizontal break and then big move out left to finish jug of ‘meat Bishop’.

Sit start. Use arete, make a long move, climb to the lip and mantle up to finish.

Traverse the obvious crack and top out when the crack stops. Fun and engaging. you can start from ALBOF sit start and traverse over for an extra grade.

A fun little number up next to the big gum leaning against the boulder. Sit start.

sit start and then over to the far left and mantle

Sit down start - climb the arete and then insecure to topout, take lots of matts

Anonymous arete but judging by the wear marks on the rock looks like V3 or V2 ish...straight up the arete with rockover to a long reach