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Routes as trad in East (Right) Side

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Showing all 24 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Wargasm

Start as for Mosh and traverse left along the break. A rack of cams is handy.

FA: S.Squires & J.Ryan, 1997

Trad 15m
16 Two Carrots Purple

Start: 1m left of the arete.

Single SS glue-in carrot at the top, and a minor rooflet and arete, which the other three carrot climbs on this wall do not.

Mixed trad 10m, 2
14 Two Carrots Red

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

FA: 2000

Mixed trad 10m, 2
15 Two Carrots Orange

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

Mixed trad 10m, 2
15 Two Carrots Yellow

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

FA: 2000

Mixed trad 10m, 2
18 Tall Dwarfs

Start: This and the following 2 routes are on the uninspiring wall with the overhanging dinner plates.

Up finger crack then over roof with rings.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 2
18 Terror Couple Kill Colonel

Up slab to roof with a wire placement between the first and second bolts. Finish at DBB

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 6
18 Deathburger Highway

Start at large stringybark. Up past carrot and large bird's nest in alcove past overhang with broken holds to thin huge rings.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 3
15 Cosmic Gall

Start: The dirty corner/ramp to the left of SN. Carrot at overhung crux.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 1
19 th(rush)

Start: Between The Reprieve and SOTC.

Low angled corner crack to ledge below overhanging wide section and narrow topout. Medium gear and extend belay from tree 5m back to ledge on left to avoid rope jamming in notch.

No doubt climbed before, FA please name and claim.

Trad 17m
6 It's Crap Ray No.1

Start: 1m right of arete.

3m steps to carrot then a few chances for nuts in notches, slings, and 2 cams to intact tree belay.

FFA: S Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 1
13 Not So Crap

Start: 3m left of "It's Crap Ray No.1" at smaller tree. 3m to rusty carrot then possible nuts in notches and slings to ledge, stainless carrot 2m up (crux) then another nut/sling to top and single galvanised glue-in carrot anchor.

[Renamed: the only thing worse than Crap is Unknown - Ed.]

Mixed trad 10m, 2
6 It's Crap Ray No.2

Start: At flake/corner.

Corner with wires to ledge with rusty carrot hidden behind jug next to bomber sling (former belay?), then a few notches to the top and carrot anchor.

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 1
19 Wowza

Up flake the left and through rooflet to crack

FA: C George, 2006

Trad 20m
15 Karmic Block

FFA: S. Squires & D. Geraghy, 1996

Trad 12m
8 New Rose (in Town)

FFA: S. Squires, 1999

Trad 10m
Single Carrot Arete

Runout is an understatement. Single carrot ~5m up.

Mixed trad 1
17 Morris Chopsuey

FFA: S. Squires & D. Hartley, 1996

Trad 15m
15 The Worl According to RURP
Trad 15m
18 Tofu & Vegies

Done ground up / onsite. Follow the seams and cracks heading generally straight up. Walk off and lower from tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 3.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 2009

Trad 10m
Upper Tier
19 Bela Lugosi

The line of rings and a thread just left of the corner up to DRBB lower-off.

The bolts are in a straight line but the climb wanders. Start up the corner, traverse to clip the 1st bolt then return 2m right and up to cave, traverse horizontally past 2nd bolt and up 2m left of 3rd bolt to thread, can supplement with cams. Clip 4th bolt and easier ground left to large ledge. Runout unnerving sandy rounded edges up to lower-offs,.

FA: J Allwood & C Allwood, 1999

Mixed trad 25m, 4
19 The Big Corner

Name says it all. You can traverse to 'Bela Lugosi' anchors to get off.

FA: J Smoothy, 1980

Trad 25m
21 Route Rustler

The obvious undercut crack. Head for a fixed hanger on a sharp nose then left and finish up 'Nudity'.

FA: J Clark, 1998

Mixed trad 15m, 3
19 Kamikazee Jumbos

20m right of Route Rustler is a short dog leg crack, that is trickier than it appears.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2005

Trad 15m

Showing all 24 routes.

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