Ascents in Pierces Pass West Side

10/10 Choss. Crux move probably on pitch 2. Generally eats bigger gear, you wouldn’t be mad about taking 5 and/or 6. Long bush bash back to Bells line.

Connecting the first two pitches works well with a 60 rope.

First multi experience! Thanks to Mitch for throwing me in the deep end on this one!!

This is a very fun route! The gear is good, the climbing on the upper two pitches is excellent if you are a corner conisuer.

Alec's first multipitch!

Pitch 1: and 2 are your standard mountains horizontal face trad. Onsite.

Pitch 3: I guess after the rain this week there was 5 key holds on the Crux of this pitch that were wet. Still climbable you just have to do a harder sequence. The crux is superfun on this pitch!

Fell off on the onsite. Fell off second shot due to the dampness Lowered to the base of the crux and went to the top so overlaping 1 sit.

Pitch 4: Another wet hold 😞 Second shot placing This was a rad corner pitch!

This route is still climbable even if the holds are damp!

Stoked to get the 24 pitch done on my 6th pitch of the day 🙌

Plenty of cool/exciting holds. Get on it while they're still there!

Low hanging fruits for late starters . Jugs all the way, could be a great new set at villawood, holds are gentle on the skin and the great is soft on the ego of you don’t get phased by a bit of loose goods lying around.

Dirty and quite uneventful

Seconded the two first pitches clean.

I started the lead up the 3rd pitch (23) but needed a take after barely making it across to the horizontal break after the first two carrots. It was actually already very difficult for me, especially with several holds wet, slimey, sandy and broken. Moving up from here was even hard for me to aid, and after taking so long to progress beyond the next bolt up, I decided to bail (down climbed using sling assistance on carrots and then traversed left along ledge to double rings on the climb over).

Pretty cool moves but I'd say the 23 pitch is more like grade 24/25.

A superb outing, pitch 3 is exceptional. I'm surprised this doesn't see more regular traffic as its just so good and very easy to get too !!

We got on this thinking it was the iron throne. First pitch is a pile of choss featuring a nice fridge sized death block ready to pop out. 2nd and 3rd pitch are quality though on great rock. We bailed before the final pitch, was able to get to the belay for pitch 2 rapping on double 60s from the top of pitch 3.

Repeat, leading oposite pitches than last time. Pitch 2 is still the crux pitch. Really enjoyed pitch 3 this time.

Great to finally tick this one off.

Adventurous is the right description only because contrary to the description, the rock is not that solid, especially in the corner. The flake/pillar in the corner feels like it would pull off without too much effort. Funny position for the belay bolts at the end of the first pitch. Nonetheless a nice addition to Bladderhozen. We have to go back to do the rest.

One of the best climbs in the Blue Mountains. Last pitch is exciting.

In FULL shade by 10:30 (2nd Jan). 23 crux pitch is AWESOME and doesn't feel hard for grade, I guess because enough jug rests throughout. That flake is so exciting! Also didn't feel run out to me given bolt positions and easier sections. No where really to place cams anyway, so no need to bring.

Had several falls figuring out the moves up to the lip of the roof. The crack was loose finger size for me and I'm not good enough at jamming that size with steep terrain. Eventually got all the moves.

great summer outing. Start was in shade after 10am as advertised, but first anchor not till ~11. Fortunately I climbed slow, aided by resting near the third bolt with a massive flash pump and some sandy rounded confusion. But after that it was juggy. Cédric and I both appeared at the top saying the last pitch was easier than any 22 pitch on Yak Banquet, make of that what you will. Took cams and placed a few but they were pretty pointless (one gave Cédric a good laugh).

great route. just punted the crux as usual

A canyon and choss adventure day. Left car park at 745. Scrambled with much sketch up a landslide gully, hugged the cliff, negotiated an approach pitch that i dived into a little too hastily at about 920. The route in general is probably more aesthetic than it is good in movement but certainly has its moments going through the many roof traverses. Climbing generally gets better with height which was nice. Probably nothing harder than gr18 but the grade probably reflects the need to have quite a good temprament under big easy runouts and most importantly, the ability to discern between good holds and landmines. Yim got a head jam in p5 that he insisted on a photo of. Finished climbing at 2, somehow only made the car at 5 after a couple raps, a skinny dip in the creek and alot of swearing at broken branches. Then to cap it off a red belly black arked up at yim 50m from the carpark.

A great route for a half day of climbing. Challenging pitch 2 and 4, and to me the crux sequence of pitch two was the hardest climbing of the whole route. Ended up doing the pitches a little out of order as I didn't get pitch two on the first try. After onsighting pitch 4 I figured I should have another attempt on pitch two while rapping back down.

Pitch 4 was hard off the belay but then ended up being very juggy climbing, to a finish with large moves between ledges in a great position.

A thoroughly adventurous sport route. The middle 2 pitches are fantastic. Pitch one is best approached as access pitch to the climbing proper. I'm still traumatised from offering Monty a catch on the last pitch, trying to interpret whether the vague rope jerks were an attempt to use our '2 tug = take and start lowering' communication system, or if it was drag, or wind, or a feeble attempt to clip and not whip into space. Have some means of subliminal communication sorted people! So much type 2 fun was had today

The good bits were really good, the bad bits were really bad... so: standard blueys sport multi, then?

Proper humid conditions today meant gallons of sweat.

P1 was kinda junk, with lots of loose rock and about 5m of good climbing, but I'm happy to take it as the price of admission.

P2 was a fairly pleasant slab with an interesting start, thin finish, and inoffensive easy middle.

P3 (2nd shot pink point) was rad varied steep face climbing. Fairly sustained at 24 with a hard crux down low to earn 25. Would be classic as a single pitch anywhere else. On my onsight, I couldnt get on the mid-crux draw, and ended up whipping back to the belay!

P4 (10 milionth shot red point) has a hideously nails start boulder to gain the stance below roof (the hardest move on the entire route for me... took me about 15 shots to stick it, made harder when I broke off one of the key holds). Then a wild boulder througbh a body length roof 100m off the deck (took me 3 shots to stick it), with a few punchy moves after turning the lip. Unfortunately, everythimg above this point is hideous sand, and I did not enjoy it. Full disclosure: after sticking the initial boulder, i didnt lower back to the belay to send the pitch properly after figuring out the roof sequence, I just went from thr no-hands rest below the roof (3m up from the belay).

I think the grades are bang-on. I reckon P4 would feel 25 in anything less than a billion percent humidity, though in today's conditions it felt every bit a 26

All in all, though, a worthy day out, just one I'm not in a hurry to repeat. We did it in about 7 hours car to car (including the redpointing of the pitcheS).

FFA. Has all those ingredients you want in a Pierces Pass multipitch. Some adventure, some easier climbing, some harder climbing, all well-protected on U-bolts but with a feeling of growing intensity as you get higher. If you've not been to this wall before, it's around 25 mins walk-in from the carpark to the base of the route, mostly on an excellent track (see Bladderhozen approach notes in guide). Climb, rap back down, walk out. Or combine with The Iron Throne or Bladderhozen for more sport pitch fun in the same zone.

only got 1 and 3 pitch clean. will have to come back to it. really cool sequence 2nd pitch and epic pumpfest 4th

only got 1 and 3 pitch clean. will have to come back to it. really cool sequence 2nd pitch and epic pumpfest 4th

only got 1 and 3 pitch clean. will have to come back to it. really cool sequence 2nd pitch and epic pumpfest 4th

only got 1 and 3 pitch clean. will have to come back to it. really cool sequence 2nd pitch and epic pumpfest 4th