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Ascents in Shipley Lower

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 288 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
25 The Prozac Years - with David Dearnley
1 24 40m
2 25 7m
3 20 20m
Sport 67m Blue Mountains Classic
Paul Frothy Thomson
Sat 28th May 2022
What a journey! I've wanted to do this for years (we've all seen that photo of Greg Child on the roof cut-loose and mantle), especially because I've never heard of anyone ever doing it (even asking many of the local legends). If it ever gets rebolted and a bit of TLC, this would be a genuine multipitch classic!

I linked P1 and P2 into a giant 40m Onsight, then set up an improvised belay just below the roof (using 2 bolts and a #1 cam) so I could reduce the roof and mantle to a manageable boulder problem. These pitches are beautiful, sustained face climbing on great rock. P2 in particular follows a super-cool vague-flake thing with tricky feet, and finishes with an old-school "padding" traverse.

Ticking the roof and mantle took me a bunch of shots (initially cause I was using totally wack beta) and at one point involved such a massive sideways fall that I broke a biner. Once I sorted my beta and rested up, it went down surprisingly easy. I'd probably call the mantle a V3?

Pitch three is quite easy, but has a proper gripping traverse at the grade. I'm glad I didn't fall off.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Ben Hanley
1 18 20m lead by Grace Mackie
2 20 25m lead by Ben Hanley
3 15 16m lead by Ben Hanley
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Grace Mackie
Sat 20th Jun 2020
Great route! Start holds are a bit suspect so take care off the ground. Ben tried his best to punt me off P2 with a few very firmly placed wires but to no avail, there are jugs galore! Linked P2 and 3

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with james ritchie
1 18 20m lead by Ryan Armstrong
2 20 25m lead by james ritchie
3 15 16m lead by james ritchie
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Ryan Armstrong
Sat 4th Jul 2020
20 Clockwork Orange - with Hugh Sutton
1 18 20m
2 20 25m
3 15 16m
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Good
Justine Jenkins
Sun 8th Aug 2021
The second pitch was awesome, but I don't know that this climb lives up to the hype, considering pitch 2 is guarded by pitches 1 and 3. The first pitch is ok if you take lots of small wires and some C3s, the second pitch is stellar, but the last pitch is a chossy gully with basically no pro. I can't help but think that Solomon and Fer de Lance are similar, if not better climbs, if I'm being honest. They can't match the aspect of Shipley lower, but they are def at least the same quality and more accessible. It was worth doing once. We did it in two pitches, linking 2 and 3, and had a fair amount of small wires and C3s.

 
20 Clockwork Orange
1 18 20m
2 20 25m
3 15 16m
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Hunter Cole
Tue 21st Sep 2021
Absolutely stella!

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Peter
1 18 20m
2 20 25m
3 15 16m
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Tom
Sat 30th Jul 2022
20 Clockwork Orange - with Tom
1 18 20m lead by Tom
2 20 25m lead by Peter
3 15 16m lead by Peter
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Peter
Sun 31st Jul 2022
20 Clockwork Orange - with Lauren Hunter
1 18 20 Trad
2 20 25 Second lead by Lauren Hunter

Pumped out trying to remove a stuck piece of gear

3 15 16 Trad

Scary! Chossy rock without many good gear placements on 1st half

Trad 61m Blue Mountains Good
Pedro Rocha
Sat 17th Dec 2022
Cool climbing! Great 1st and 2nd pitches, bit chossy on 3rd pitch.

 
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Nick Cormack
Wed 3rd Feb 2010
Stoked. Real onsight no info little chalk on route but above all a great line. Get on it!!!!! Thanks for the rebolt Coggy

 
25 Nikita - with Emil Mandyczewsky Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Lee Cujes
Sun 4th Sep 2016
Super proud-looking line and a worthy climb.

 
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Gus
Sat 22nd Jul 2017
So much fun! Quite physical at the start and the traverse was a lot more pumpy than it looked but made a lot easier with some good footwork and body position. It unfolds into a really nice flow between good edges and rests with great moves all the way to the top! One of the best I've tried in a while at 25 the rock quality in this area is nuts

 
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Ben Jenga
Sun 13th Aug 2017
Such a classic line. Took me a few attempts to commit to the first hard move then hold on for the pump ride. It's not over till the last move for sure.

 
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Jake
Mon 1st Jul 2019
rad!

 
24 25 Unfork Ita - with Chris, Will Vidler Sport 35m, 15 Blue Mountains Classic
Gee Rad
Tue 30th Jul 2019
Out roof with weirdness.................... Drag your heels, but don't dawdle........ Crimpdercling to win!

 
25 Nikita - with ryan holm Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Max lesoine
Sat 9th Nov 2019
Unique feature

 
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains
Mattia Fornari
Mon 13th Jan 2020
25 Nikita - with ryan holm Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Steffen Ha
Sun 5th Apr 2020
24 25 Unfork Ita Sport 35m, 15 Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Aaron Jones
Sat 27th Jun 2020
Primo.

 
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains
Nathan
Sat 22nd Jul 2023
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Andy Brown
Fri 4th Aug 2023
Awesome top section after the ramp.

 
24 Sausages and Light Bulbs - with Emil Mandyczewsky Sport 50m, 18 Blue Mountains Good
Lee Cujes
Sun 4th Sep 2016
The slab has one of the smallest holds I've ever used in rockclimbing. That's just mental. No like!

 
24 Sausages and Light Bulbs Sport 50m, 18 Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Jake
Mon 1st Jul 2019
One of the best 24s i have ever done.

 
24 Sausages and Light Bulbs Sport 50m, 18 Blue Mountains
Mattia Fornari
Thu 28th May 2020
24 Sausages and Light Bulbs - with Heidixe
1 24 50m
Sport 50m, 18 Blue Mountains
Wojjy
Fri 29th Jul 2022
24 Nuclear Winter - with Match
1 23 20m
2 24 25m
Trad 45m Blue Mountains Classic
Paul Frothy Thomson
Sun 31st Jul 2022
Pretty stoked with the onsight given the (obvious) lack of wear/traffic and dirty holds after the recent deluge.

Linked both pitches into a giant 45m pitch from the ground. I don't necessarily recommend this unless you use 2 ropes, or pull up and drop the rope (for a clean run of rope) at the end of P1, as the rope drag was horrible.

A very old school, wandery, cryptic, and intimidating line. P1 starts inauspiciously, but ends with some pretty hard slabbing a long way above a carrot. P2 features some heart-stopping climbing to gain the arete, turn it, and continue up the slab on the other side before finally getting another carrot. Both pitches were good fun if you like the style, but P2 proved gripping enough to be memorable, and I'll readily admit that I was a bit freaked.

 
24 Sausages and Light Bulbs Sport 50m, 18 Blue Mountains
Nathan
Sat 22nd Jul 2023
23 St Valentine's Day Massacre - with Greg James, Andrew McAuley Sport 55m Blue Mountains
Adrian Kladnig
Sat 25th Feb 1995
23 Bowstring - with Heath Black
1 Trad
2 Second
Trad 55m Blue Mountains Very Good
Jacques Beaudoin
Sun 19th Nov 2023
Great climb. Had to fight to onsight this one.

 
17 22/23 Orange Marmalade Mixed trad 55m, 1 Blue Mountains Good
Aidan Smith
Sat 21st Jul 2012
1st pitch

 
22 Hooray for Fish Sport 32m Blue Mountains Good
Ben Jenga
Sat 24th Aug 2013
The best tick of the day... Long and varied climbing on mostly good rock sadly it not that great to climb with some weird and awkward moved. Pumper.

 
22 Hooray for Fish - with Heath Black Sport 32m Blue Mountains Very Good
Aaron Jones
Sun 1st Dec 2019
Varied climbing up an interesting wall. Use long slings especially at the overlaps.

 
22 Hooray for Fish Sport 32m Blue Mountains
Mattia Fornari
Thu 28th May 2020
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
michael batchelor
2000
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Roger Austin
Sun 7th May 2006
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Wendy Eden
Tue 13th Apr 2010
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Adam Bramwell
Sat 4th Sep 2004
bliss. thanks keith!

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Steven Martin
Sat 5th May 2007
Doesn't look much from the ground but climbs beautifully. Led 1st pitch 2nd 2nd pitch.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Mark Hateley
Tue 13th Apr 2010
Awesome, all gear

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Nick Clow
Sat 12th Jun 2004
beauty.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
russ
Tue 13th Apr 2010
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Tim Haasnoot
2001
The second pitch is a gem!

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
James Hardy
Tue 13th Apr 2010
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
duanne white
Mon 1st Apr 2002
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Very Good
Tony Williams
Wed 25th Aug 1999
good climb with Mr Luck

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Rod Smith
Sun 20th May 2012
Do it! JB p1, Me P2, JB p3. Cruised it. Took our time. 2hr 45 mins. Glorious sun. Belay is more than adequate at start of third pitch. Beware the rap in. Take an extra rope for the rap and expect it to get wet from the waterfall.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Adrian Kladnig
Sat 9th Apr 1994
20 Clockwork Orange - with Cam Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Damien Ayers
Mon 7th Jan 2013
Had some trouble finding my trad head and calves, but super cool climbing.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Marty Doolan
Tue 9th Nov 2010
20 Clockwork Orange - with Paul Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Matt Short
Sun 31st Aug 2014
Great climb, amazing second pitch, glad to get it without a fall.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Carlos
Sat 20th Sep 2014
Awesome!

 
20 Clockwork Orange
1 lead by jenna
2 lead by jason
3 lead by jason
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Jason McCarthy
Wed 22nd Oct 2014
We made a bit of an epic getting to this, looked at rapping down but would of got a wet rope from the waterfall. Walked down but ended up way to low, bush bashed up the slope to the bottom of the water fal . Jenna lead 1st pitch, I linked 2nd and 3rd. Awesome route, best trad I've done in the bluies. Needs an easier rap in?

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Andres Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Alastair McDowell
Sun 25th Oct 2015
So stoked on this route! A technical start on small gear past interesting features on pitch one before you get the first glimpse of the intimidating crux pitch - which turns out to be amazing! But wait there's more... Full-value trad-multi adventure.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Stephen Winnacott
Sat 21st May 2016
20 Clockwork Orange - with jodie Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Gee Rad
Sat 8th Apr 2017
Excellent. ..and yet, only half the route Catch the Wind is.

I used a red x4 and some small wires on the tricky first pitch start, lots of finger to hand sized cams on the second and third (I linked these), and big nuts all round. It would be quite easy to sew it up without many cams. I think you'd have to build a hanging belay off a #4 and some .75s to make a bombproof second pitch anchor.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Che Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Ro-boat
Sat 28th Jan 2017
Awesome, steep, involved climbing, up an inspiring line, on great gear and rock. Essentially the epitome of mega classic. Maybe not quite as memorable as Catching the Wind, but excellent all the same. Done as 2 pitches.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Gus
Sat 22nd Jul 2017
What a beautiful little piece of climbing. Good rock and gear and the last section of pitch two is super fun. Really wish it was pure crack but for the blueys at this grade it's quite a full package. Got lost trying to get back after topping out though... bit of a bush bash, how does everyone else do this?

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Will Vidler
1 20 61m lead by Harry Kadi
2 lead by Will Vidler
3
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Harry Kadi
Sat 5th May 2018
Climbed as 2 pitches: 1st pitch is super fun and cruise, the intimidating start is really quite easy but protected by some questionable small wires. 2nd pitch is mega classic steep corner climbing with lots of stemming stances and bomber gear! The final section with is claimed to be 15, felt very solid at the grade!! Awesome route

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Harry Kadi
1 18 61m lead by Harry Kadi
2 20 lead by Will Vidler
3 15 lead by Will Vidler
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Will Vidler
Sat 5th May 2018
Great route and one that I've been meaning to do for a while. First pitch is really good and much easier than it looks, second pitch (linked with the fantastically solid third) was the money though and definitely lived up to its classic status. Had a pretty standard trad onsighting experience where I hung around in a stance getting pumped and being intimidated for ages before finally committing and cruising through the jugs; rinse and repeat. Great morning!!

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Alex Riegelman
Sat 22nd Sep 2018
Good first pitch and great second pitch. Wildly overhanging for a trad pitch at this grade - massive holds though.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Levi Worden
Fri 26th Apr 2019
20 Clockwork Orange - with Josiah Hess
1 18 20m lead by Dani Hess
2 20 25m lead by Josiah Hess
3 15 16m lead by Josiah Hess
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Dani Hess
Mon 25th Nov 2019
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Lawrence Curran
Mon 13th Jan 2020
20 Clockwork Orange - with Dan
1 18 20m lead by Roman
2 20 25m lead by Roman
3 15 16m lead by Roman
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Roman
Sun 1st Mar 2020
Exciting start, the second pitch crux section alone is worth it!! Even the top of the 15 is great

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Sean Peters, Dean Trad 61m Blue Mountains Good
Oliver
Fri 28th Feb 2020
20 Clockwork Orange - with Grace Mackie
1 18 20m lead by Grace Mackie
2 20 25m lead by Ben Hanley
3 15 16m lead by Ben Hanley
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Ben Hanley
Sat 20th Jun 2020
An awesome route, and surprised myself with an onsight of the second pitch.

Pretty tough start with high gear on pitch one, and up the groove on good gear. Second pitch started with a fun slab, then through the bulge on bomber gear and surprisingly juggy holds. Just when I thought I was going to pump off, more jugs appeared! Linked the second and third pitches.

Definitely recommend approaching it from Shipley Upper and rapping in, the walk along the base of the cliff was a lot longer than expected.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Ryan Armstrong Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
james ritchie
Sat 4th Jul 2020
2nd the first pitch. Led the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Was good to have a .3 cam and small wires for off the deck. Small cam also useful.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Max Gordon
1 18 20m lead by Max Gordon
2 20 25m lead by Dylan Tubaro
3 15 16m lead by Dylan Tubaro
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Very Good
Dylan Tubaro
Fri 23rd Oct 2020
Pitch two is the money.but pitch one and three are average. Definitely not a classic in my books Linked pitch two and three.

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Good
Max Gordon
Fri 6th Nov 2020
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Gavin
Sun 16th May 2021
Killer line and great moves. Somehow i was closer to slipping of some silliness in the 15 section than at the crux

 
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Very Good
Zac Lazatin
Mon 17th May 2021
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Anzhela Malysheva
Sun 6th Sep 2020
20 Clockwork Orange - with James Collins
1 18 20m lead by James Collins
2 20 25m
3 15 16m
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Kit Wilson
Tue 6th Jul 2021
A line to remember. Raced up this classic after a day of cragging around CG and Upper Shipley. Accessed by rapping - got a little soaked by the waterfall on the way down.

First pitch is great, and can be done entirely on bomber wires (micro cam could be useful for starting moves). The second pitch is breathtakingly steep and looms above. Great gear throughout and plenty of positive holds for those with an aversion to jamming. Again this crack takes awesome passive pro - hexes were handy! Link last pitch - it had a some spice but still quite enjoyable!

As the crack isn’t quite splitter, this climb could comfortably be done with a single rack of Cam (micro/big size useful), a nice selection of nuts and hexes.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Hunter Cole
1 18 20m lead by Ben Sanford
2 20 25m lead by Hunter Cole
3 15 16m lead by Ben Sanford
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Ben Sanford
Tue 21st Sep 2021
Great route, first six metres of the first pitch are fairly spicy, used tiny wires and cams to make myself feel better. Really awesome all the way up to the end of pitch two. Pitch two was awesome, big holds, good jams, good feet, awesome rock. Pitch 3 is worth linking to avoid an average belay. Pitch three had a bit of sting in it for a 15, chossy too.

 
20 5 Go Adventuring Again - with Heath Black Sport 50m, 8 Blue Mountains Average
Paul Frothy Thomson
Sun 7th Aug 2022
Linked both pitches. The start is quite dangerous and on very average rock. There is a nice section of steep scoops following this, but the upper section is dull climbing with a deathy runout. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, really.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Tom
1 18 20m Trad
2 20 25m Trad
3 15 16m Trad
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Dylan Glavas
Wed 14th Dec 2022
Unreal route!! Finishing that first pitch and viewing the overhanging second pitch is daunting! Took Tom up for his first multi! Killed it! Quite an experience with the extremely high winds and exposure! Linked pitches 2 & 3

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Pedro Rocha
1 18 20 Second lead by Pedro Rocha
2 20 25 Trad lead by Lauren Hunter
3 15 16 Second lead by Pedro Rocha
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Lauren Hunter
Sat 17th Dec 2022
Fully trad multi! Made a 4 piece anchor at the top of 2, in the slightly sandy potentially breakable rock. Added a bomber hex and cam as backups.. Third pitch was spicy because of said rock quality. Topped out and used the tree, it's good. Bit of bush bashing to get back to upper shipley but thankfully Pedro has a sense of direction, head up and left then down across the creek.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with root
1 18 20 Trad
2 20 25 Trad
3 15 16 Second
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
rickau
Sun 18th Dec 2022
Great adventure line which is worth the walk down to lower shipply.

First couple of moves on the first pitch are a bit suspect with some absolute choss holds. Make sure you get a spot for this part.

Second pitch is the money, link up with the 3rd pitch to avoid the shit gear at the top of the second pitch.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Henry Burt
1 18 20m Trad
2 20 25m Second
3 15 16m Second
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Tad Karapetian
Thu 28th Dec 2023
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
James Hockey
Tue 13th Feb 2024
20 Clockwork Orange
1 18 20m Second
2 20 25m Trad
3 15 16m Trad
Trad 61m Blue Mountains
Sunny G
Wed 24th Apr 2024
20 Clockwork Orange Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Brendan Coulter
Thu 25th Apr 2024
Awesome fun. That corner looks so intimidating from below, but it climbs surprisingly reasonable.

Sandbagged ourselves by assuming we could rap off, so took packs to the base. I got the honours of bush-bashing out at dusk with the gear and rope, whilst Aidan got to rap down, and do the long walk with one pack stuff inside the other.

 
18 18 R St Clemmen's Crack Variant Trad 40m Blue Mountains Classic
Carlos
Sat 20th Sep 2014
Committing finish

 
17 St Clemmen's Crack Trad 50m Blue Mountains Very Good
Paul Frothy Thomson
Sat 24th Aug 2013
Climbed as one monster pitch, with very little rope drag (could easily be split into 2 pitches, though). Very traddy crack climbing in all styles, with 3 distinctly hard sequences surrounded by sustained climbing. Contender for the worlds hardest trad 17? I think Clockwork Orange is easier. A tad vegetated, a bit sandy, but the majority is completely worthwhile.

 
17 St Clemmen's Crack - with Will Vidler Trad 50m Blue Mountains Good
Harry Kadi
Sun 25th Jun 2017
Good quality at the bottom and the top, dirty, chossy and scary in the middle. Only went to the first double bolts then rapped off.

 
17 St Clemmen's Crack Trad 50m Blue Mountains Average
Alex Riegelman
Sat 22nd Sep 2018
Not awesome. Very very overgrown. Some suspect rock. Fully cleaned up it might get one star. Skip it and just go climb Clockwork Orange.

 
17 ~19 St Clemmen's Crack - with sophie Trad 50m Blue Mountains Classic
nathaniel glavurdic
Sun 7th Jan 2024
Radical adventure climb, alot more engaging than flake crack at the grade! Epic rockclimbing

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Stubbsy
1 18 20m
2 20 25m
3 15 16m
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
Match
Tue 6th Aug 2019
Morning multi!!!! quite a cool steep line. the crux pitch is awesome unfortunetly I didnt get it clean.

I am seriously concerned about the two sandy jugs on pitch one on the initial moves climbers right. Stubbsy said he felt them flexing first and I noticed them seriously flexing. If either of these holds break. It would likely end up a ground fall for the leader or second. I don't beleive these holds can b glued as they are literal choss IMO.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Karina Lukowska
1 18 20m Trad lead by Peter Melouney
2 20 25m Trad lead by Peter Melouney
3 15 16m Second lead by Karina Lukowska
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Very Good
Peter Melouney
Sat 27th Apr 2024
20 Clockwork Orange - with Dani Hess
1 18 20m lead by Dani Hess
2 20 25m lead by Josiah Hess
3 15 16m lead by Josiah Hess
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Josiah Hess
Mon 25th Nov 2019
Mega classic! Reminds me of Catch the Wind at Engineers Cascade, but easier. Linked pitches 2 and 3.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Sean Peters, Oliver
1 18 20m lead by Oliver
2 20 25m lead by Sean Peters
3 17 16m lead by Dean
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Very Good
Dean
Fri 28th Feb 2020
Approach: followed the trail instead of ducking the fence at Sail Away wall. Had to bush bash up to regain cliff line.

P1: went pretty briskly: stems, hops and a couple of very smooth holds that are a bit scary if you've got sweaty fingers. Looked much harder on lead due to the marginal/fiddly pro. May even have used a finger lock - advantages of swollen joints?

P2: I enjoyed the stemming and the spacing of good holds was just right. Slightly soft for 20. Used laybacks to make some ground, and hand jams as a rest for tired fingers. Belay stance was terrible for our party of 3 - gear and rope everywhere, leader hanging below the ledge kinda in the way, not really a good place for me to sit or hang as second. I dropped my shoe (which very luckily landed on the ledge at the top of P1 before Ollie started climbing).

P3: easier than the first pitch but still tricky due to lack of pro. I ran it out as much as I could without risking hitting the ledge too hard; C4#0.3, 0.75, over-cammed 2 and a thread, probably could have stitched an extra small wire in down low too. Couple of thought-provoking sequences felt more like 17 than 15. For the last few metres, went up the R face using the least fragile jugs I could find. Tree anchor because I didn't see the bolts.

Exit: long bush bash around gully, across creek, then up the other side. There are huge strips of bark and leaves everywhere - if there's a trail there we couldn't see it.

I thought it was a classic while climbing, for the interesting steepness and stemming, but after debriefing I was convinced the marginal pro and variable rock quality detracts especially on lead.

 
20 Clockwork Orange - with Kit Wilson
1 18 20m lead by James Collins
2 20 25m lead by Kit Wilson
3 15 16m lead by Kit Wilson
Trad 61m Blue Mountains Classic
James Collins
Tue 6th Jul 2021
An awesome climb to finish an epic day, topping out at sunset! Linked pitch 2&3, some spice 🌶 on pitch 3.

 
27 The Unforgiven Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Mega Classic
Dave Hoyle
Sat 27th Jun 2020
One of the best!

 
24 25 Unfork Ita - with Heath Black, Paul Frothy Thomson Sport 35m, 15 Blue Mountains Classic
Matt Pascoe
Sun 11th Feb 2018
What a way to get back into climbing in Aus. A little cruxy getting off the ground but is a great line.

 
24 25 Unfork Ita Sport 35m, 15 Blue Mountains Classic
Paul Frothy Thomson
Sun 11th Feb 2018
Brilliant! Great rock and climbing up a stunning series of linked features, and avoids the poxy, snappy boulder-problem of Nikita. Lots of challenging moves but also lots of good holds. Should be on everyone's hit list.

 
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Classic
Meef
Sun 1st Jul 2018
25 Unfork Ita Sport 35m, 15 Blue Mountains Classic
Dave Hoyle
Sat 27th Jun 2020
25 Unfork Ita Sport 35m, 15 Blue Mountains
Marty Doolan
Wed 12th May 2021
25 Nikita Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains
David Barrie
Sat 16th Dec 2023
Thought we were doing Unfork Ita by starting up the left line of bolts, but ended up going back into Nikita straight off the ledge which I think is too early for the intended linkup. So while this ascent isn't Nikita proper, I feel it's close enough.

Hard move off the ledge but very cool! Great line.

 
24 Sausages and Light Bulbs Sport 50m, 18 Blue Mountains
Tom Payton
Sun 25th Jun 2023
23 St Valentine's Day Massacre - with Heath Black Sport 55m Blue Mountains Very Good
Aaron Jones
Sat 30th Nov 2019
Tricky balancy start then backs off to the top. Draws were up (thanks Neil!) otherwise would be difficult to clip some of the rings. The old carrots are generally in the right place, bring some bolt plates!

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 288 ascents.

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