Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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25 |
★★★ The Prozac Years
- with
David Dearnley
1
24
40m
2
25
7m
3
20
20m
| 67m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Ben Hanley | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Jun 2020 | ||||
Great route! Start holds are a bit suspect so take care off the ground. Ben tried his best to punt me off P2 with a few very firmly placed wires but to no avail, there are jugs galore!
Linked P2 and 3
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with james ritchie | 61m | Blue Mountains | Sat 4th Jul 2020 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
- with
Hugh Sutton
1
18
20m
2
20
25m
3
15
16m
| 61m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 8th Aug 2021 | ||||
The second pitch was awesome, but I don't know that this climb lives up to the hype, considering pitch 2 is guarded by pitches 1 and 3. The first pitch is ok if you take lots of small wires and some C3s, the second pitch is stellar, but the last pitch is a chossy gully with basically no pro. I can't help but think that Solomon and Fer de Lance are similar, if not better climbs, if I'm being honest. They can't match the aspect of Shipley lower, but they are def at least the same quality and more accessible. It was worth doing once. We did it in two pitches, linking 2 and 3, and had a fair amount of small wires and C3s.
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20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
1
18
20m
2
20
25m
3
15
16m
| 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Sep 2021 | ||||
Absolutely stella!
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20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
- with
Peter
1
18
20m
2
20
25m
3
15
16m
| 61m | Blue Mountains | Sat 30th Jul 2022 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Tom | 61m | Blue Mountains | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
- with
Lauren Hunter
1
18
20
3
15
16
Scary! Chossy rock without many good gear placements on 1st half | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 17th Dec 2022 | ||||
Cool climbing! Great 1st and 2nd pitches, bit chossy on 3rd pitch.
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25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Feb 2010 | ||||
Stoked. Real onsight no info little chalk on route but above all a great line. Get on it!!!!! Thanks for the rebolt Coggy
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25 | ★★★ Nikita - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Sep 2016 | ||||
Super proud-looking line and a worthy climb.
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25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jul 2017 | ||||
So much fun! Quite physical at the start and the traverse was a lot more pumpy than it looked but made a lot easier with some good footwork and body position. It unfolds into a really nice flow between good edges and rests with great moves all the way to the top! One of the best I've tried in a while at 25 the rock quality in this area is nuts
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25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Aug 2017 | ||||
Such a classic line.
Took me a few attempts to commit to the first hard move then hold on for the pump ride. It's not over till the last move for sure.
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25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jul 2019 | ||||
rad!
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24 25 | ★★★ Unfork Ita - with Chris, Will Vidler | 35m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Jul 2019 | ||||
Out roof with weirdness....................
Drag your heels, but don't dawdle........
Crimpdercling to win!
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25 | ★★★ Nikita - with ryan holm | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | ||||
Unique feature
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25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | Mon 13th Jan 2020 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Nikita - with ryan holm | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Apr 2020 | ||||
24 25 | ★★★ Unfork Ita | 35m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Jun 2020 | ||||
Primo.
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25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | Sat 22nd Jul 2023 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | ||||
Awesome top section after the ramp.
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24 | ★★★ Sausages and Light Bulbs - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 50m, 18 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 4th Sep 2016 | ||||
The slab has one of the smallest holds I've ever used in rockclimbing. That's just mental. No like!
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24 | ★★★ Sausages and Light Bulbs | 50m, 18 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Jul 2019 | ||||
One of the best 24s i have ever done.
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24 | ★★★ Sausages and Light Bulbs | 50m, 18 | Blue Mountains | Thu 28th May 2020 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Sausages and Light Bulbs
- with
Heidixe
1
24
50m
| 50m, 18 | Blue Mountains | Fri 29th Jul 2022 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Nuclear Winter
- with
Match
1
23
20m
2
24
25m
| 45m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | ||||
Pretty stoked with the onsight given the (obvious) lack of wear/traffic and dirty holds after the recent deluge.
Linked both pitches into a giant 45m pitch from the ground. I don't necessarily recommend this unless you use 2 ropes, or pull up and drop the rope (for a clean run of rope) at the end of P1, as the rope drag was horrible. A very old school, wandery, cryptic, and intimidating line. P1 starts inauspiciously, but ends with some pretty hard slabbing a long way above a carrot. P2 features some heart-stopping climbing to gain the arete, turn it, and continue up the slab on the other side before finally getting another carrot. Both pitches were good fun if you like the style, but P2 proved gripping enough to be memorable, and I'll readily admit that I was a bit freaked. |
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24 | ★★★ Sausages and Light Bulbs | 50m, 18 | Blue Mountains | Sat 22nd Jul 2023 | |||||
23 | ★★ St Valentine's Day Massacre - with Greg James, Andrew McAuley | 55m | Blue Mountains | Sat 25th Feb 1995 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Bowstring
- with
Heath Black
1
2
| 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Nov 2023 | ||||
Great climb. Had to fight to onsight this one.
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17 22/23 | ★★ Orange Marmalade | 55m, 1 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 21st Jul 2012 | ||||
1st pitch
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22 | ★ Hooray for Fish | 32m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 24th Aug 2013 | ||||
The best tick of the day...
Long and varied climbing on mostly good rock sadly it not that great to climb with some weird and awkward moved. Pumper.
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22 | ★ Hooray for Fish - with Heath Black | 32m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | ||||
Varied climbing up an interesting wall. Use long slings especially at the overlaps.
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22 | ★ Hooray for Fish | 32m | Blue Mountains | Thu 28th May 2020 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2000 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th May 2006 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 4th Sep 2004 | ||||
bliss. thanks keith!
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th May 2007 | ||||
Doesn't look much from the ground but climbs beautifully. Led 1st pitch 2nd 2nd pitch.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Awesome, all gear
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 12th Jun 2004 | ||||
beauty.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2001 | ||||
The second pitch is a gem!
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Mon 1st Apr 2002 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Aug 1999 | ||||
good climb with Mr Luck
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 20th May 2012 | ||||
Do it! JB p1, Me P2, JB p3. Cruised it. Took our time. 2hr 45 mins. Glorious sun. Belay is more than adequate at start of third pitch. Beware the rap in. Take an extra rope for the rap and expect it to get wet from the waterfall.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Sat 9th Apr 1994 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Cam | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Jan 2013 | ||||
Had some trouble finding my trad head and calves, but super cool climbing.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Tue 9th Nov 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Paul | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 31st Aug 2014 | ||||
Great climb, amazing second pitch, glad to get it without a fall.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Sep 2014 | ||||
Awesome!
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20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
1
lead by
jenna
2
lead by
jason
3
lead by
jason
| 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd Oct 2014 | ||||
We made a bit of an epic getting to this, looked at rapping down but would of got a wet rope from the waterfall. Walked down but ended up way to low, bush bashed up the slope to the bottom of the water fal . Jenna lead 1st pitch, I linked 2nd and 3rd. Awesome route, best trad I've done in the bluies. Needs an easier rap in?
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Andres | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Oct 2015 | ||||
So stoked on this route! A technical start on small gear past interesting features on pitch one before you get the first glimpse of the intimidating crux pitch - which turns out to be amazing! But wait there's more... Full-value trad-multi adventure.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Sat 21st May 2016 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with jodie | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Apr 2017 | ||||
Excellent. ..and yet, only half the route Catch the Wind is.
I used a red x4 and some small wires on the tricky first pitch start, lots of finger to hand sized cams on the second and third (I linked these), and big nuts all round. It would be quite easy to sew it up without many cams. I think you'd have to build a hanging belay off a #4 and some .75s to make a bombproof second pitch anchor. |
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Che | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 28th Jan 2017 | ||||
Awesome, steep, involved climbing, up an inspiring line, on great gear and rock. Essentially the epitome of mega classic. Maybe not quite as memorable as Catching the Wind, but excellent all the same. Done as 2 pitches.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jul 2017 | ||||
What a beautiful little piece of climbing. Good rock and gear and the last section of pitch two is super fun. Really wish it was pure crack but for the blueys at this grade it's quite a full package. Got lost trying to get back after topping out though... bit of a bush bash, how does everyone else do this?
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Will Vidler | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th May 2018 | ||||
Climbed as 2 pitches: 1st pitch is super fun and cruise, the intimidating start is really quite easy but protected by some questionable small wires. 2nd pitch is mega classic steep corner climbing with lots of stemming stances and bomber gear! The final section with is claimed to be 15, felt very solid at the grade!! Awesome route
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Harry Kadi | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th May 2018 | ||||
Great route and one that I've been meaning to do for a while. First pitch is really good and much easier than it looks, second pitch (linked with the fantastically solid third) was the money though and definitely lived up to its classic status. Had a pretty standard trad onsighting experience where I hung around in a stance getting pumped and being intimidated for ages before finally committing and cruising through the jugs; rinse and repeat. Great morning!!
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Sep 2018 | ||||
Good first pitch and great second pitch. Wildly overhanging for a trad pitch at this grade - massive holds though.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Fri 26th Apr 2019 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Josiah Hess | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 13th Jan 2020 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Dan | 61m | Blue Mountains | Sun 1st Mar 2020 | |||||
Exciting start, the second pitch crux section alone is worth it!! Even the top of the 15 is great
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Sean Peters, Dean | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Grace Mackie | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Jun 2020 | ||||
An awesome route, and surprised myself with an onsight of the second pitch.
Pretty tough start with high gear on pitch one, and up the groove on good gear. Second pitch started with a fun slab, then through the bulge on bomber gear and surprisingly juggy holds. Just when I thought I was going to pump off, more jugs appeared! Linked the second and third pitches. Definitely recommend approaching it from Shipley Upper and rapping in, the walk along the base of the cliff was a lot longer than expected. |
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Ryan Armstrong | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 4th Jul 2020 | ||||
2nd the first pitch. Led the 2nd and 3rd pitch.
Was good to have a .3 cam and small wires for off the deck. Small cam also useful.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Max Gordon | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Oct 2020 | ||||
Pitch two is the money.but pitch one and three are average. Definitely not a classic in my books
Linked pitch two and three.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Fri 6th Nov 2020 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 16th May 2021 | ||||
Killer line and great moves. Somehow i was closer to slipping of some silliness in the 15 section than at the crux
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th May 2021 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | Sun 6th Sep 2020 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with James Collins | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 6th Jul 2021 | ||||
A line to remember. Raced up this classic after a day of cragging around CG and Upper Shipley. Accessed by rapping - got a little soaked by the waterfall on the way down.
First pitch is great, and can be done entirely on bomber wires (micro cam could be useful for starting moves). The second pitch is breathtakingly steep and looms above. Great gear throughout and plenty of positive holds for those with an aversion to jamming. Again this crack takes awesome passive pro - hexes were handy! Link last pitch - it had a some spice but still quite enjoyable! As the crack isn’t quite splitter, this climb could comfortably be done with a single rack of Cam (micro/big size useful), a nice selection of nuts and hexes. |
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Hunter Cole | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Sep 2021 | ||||
Great route, first six metres of the first pitch are fairly spicy, used tiny wires and cams to make myself feel better. Really awesome all the way up to the end of pitch two. Pitch two was awesome, big holds, good jams, good feet, awesome rock.
Pitch 3 is worth linking to avoid an average belay. Pitch three had a bit of sting in it for a 15, chossy too.
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20 | ★ 5 Go Adventuring Again - with Heath Black | 50m, 8 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | ||||
Linked both pitches. The start is quite dangerous and on very average rock. There is a nice section of steep scoops following this, but the upper section is dull climbing with a deathy runout. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, really.
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20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
- with
Tom
1
18
20m
2
20
25m
3
15
16m
| 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 14th Dec 2022 | ||||
Unreal route!! Finishing that first pitch and viewing the overhanging second pitch is daunting! Took Tom up for his first multi! Killed it! Quite an experience with the extremely high winds and exposure! Linked pitches 2 & 3
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Pedro Rocha | 61m | Blue Mountains | Sat 17th Dec 2022 | |||||
Fully trad multi! Made a 4 piece anchor at the top of 2, in the slightly sandy potentially breakable rock. Added a bomber hex and cam as backups.. Third pitch was spicy because of said rock quality. Topped out and used the tree, it's good. Bit of bush bashing to get back to upper shipley but thankfully Pedro has a sense of direction, head up and left then down across the creek.
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20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
- with
root
1
18
20
2
20
25
3
15
16
| 61m | Blue Mountains | Sun 18th Dec 2022 | |||||
Great adventure line which is worth the walk down to lower shipply.
First couple of moves on the first pitch are a bit suspect with some absolute choss holds. Make sure you get a spot for this part. Second pitch is the money, link up with the 3rd pitch to avoid the shit gear at the top of the second pitch. |
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20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
- with
Henry Burt
1
18
20m
2
20
25m
3
15
16m
| 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Dec 2023 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | ||||
20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
1
18
20m
2
20
25m
3
15
16m
| 61m | Blue Mountains | Wed 24th Apr 2024 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | ||||
Awesome fun. That corner looks so intimidating from below, but it climbs surprisingly reasonable.
Sandbagged ourselves by assuming we could rap off, so took packs to the base. I got the honours of bush-bashing out at dusk with the gear and rope, whilst Aidan got to rap down, and do the long walk with one pack stuff inside the other. |
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18 18 R | ★★ St Clemmen's Crack Variant | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Sep 2014 | ||||
Committing finish
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17 | ★★ St Clemmen's Crack | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Aug 2013 | ||||
Climbed as one monster pitch, with very little rope drag (could easily be split into 2 pitches, though). Very traddy crack climbing in all styles, with 3 distinctly hard sequences surrounded by sustained climbing. Contender for the worlds hardest trad 17? I think Clockwork Orange is easier. A tad vegetated, a bit sandy, but the majority is completely worthwhile.
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17 | ★★ St Clemmen's Crack - with Will Vidler | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 25th Jun 2017 | ||||
Good quality at the bottom and the top, dirty, chossy and scary in the middle. Only went to the first double bolts then rapped off.
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17 | ★★ St Clemmen's Crack | 50m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 22nd Sep 2018 | ||||
Not awesome. Very very overgrown. Some suspect rock. Fully cleaned up it might get one star. Skip it and just go climb Clockwork Orange.
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17 ~19 | ★★ St Clemmen's Crack - with sophie | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jan 2024 | ||||
Radical adventure climb, alot more engaging than flake crack at the grade! Epic rockclimbing
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20 |
★★★ Clockwork Orange
- with
Stubbsy
1
18
20m
2
20
25m
3
15
16m
| 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Aug 2019 | ||||
Morning multi!!!! quite a cool steep line. the crux pitch is awesome unfortunetly I didnt get it clean.
I am seriously concerned about the two sandy jugs on pitch one on the initial moves climbers right. Stubbsy said he felt them flexing first and I noticed them seriously flexing. If either of these holds break. It would likely end up a ground fall for the leader or second. I don't beleive these holds can b glued as they are literal choss IMO. |
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Karina Lukowska | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Dani Hess | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | ||||
Mega classic! Reminds me of Catch the Wind at Engineers Cascade, but easier. Linked pitches 2 and 3.
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Sean Peters, Oliver | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | ||||
Approach: followed the trail instead of ducking the fence at Sail Away wall. Had to bush bash up to regain cliff line.
P1: went pretty briskly: stems, hops and a couple of very smooth holds that are a bit scary if you've got sweaty fingers. Looked much harder on lead due to the marginal/fiddly pro. May even have used a finger lock - advantages of swollen joints? P2: I enjoyed the stemming and the spacing of good holds was just right. Slightly soft for 20. Used laybacks to make some ground, and hand jams as a rest for tired fingers. Belay stance was terrible for our party of 3 - gear and rope everywhere, leader hanging below the ledge kinda in the way, not really a good place for me to sit or hang as second. I dropped my shoe (which very luckily landed on the ledge at the top of P1 before Ollie started climbing). P3: easier than the first pitch but still tricky due to lack of pro. I ran it out as much as I could without risking hitting the ledge too hard; C4#0.3, 0.75, over-cammed 2 and a thread, probably could have stitched an extra small wire in down low too. Couple of thought-provoking sequences felt more like 17 than 15. For the last few metres, went up the R face using the least fragile jugs I could find. Tree anchor because I didn't see the bolts. Exit: long bush bash around gully, across creek, then up the other side. There are huge strips of bark and leaves everywhere - if there's a trail there we couldn't see it. I thought it was a classic while climbing, for the interesting steepness and stemming, but after debriefing I was convinced the marginal pro and variable rock quality detracts especially on lead. |
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20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange - with Kit Wilson | 61m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Jul 2021 | ||||
An awesome climb to finish an epic day, topping out at sunset! Linked pitch 2&3, some spice 🌶 on pitch 3.
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27 | ★★★ The Unforgiven | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Jun 2020 | ||||
One of the best!
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24 25 | ★★★ Unfork Ita - with Heath Black, Paul Frothy Thomson | 35m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Feb 2018 | ||||
What a way to get back into climbing in Aus. A little cruxy getting off the ground but is a great line.
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24 25 | ★★★ Unfork Ita | 35m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Feb 2018 | ||||
Brilliant! Great rock and climbing up a stunning series of linked features, and avoids the poxy, snappy boulder-problem of Nikita. Lots of challenging moves but also lots of good holds. Should be on everyone's hit list.
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25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Jul 2018 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Unfork Ita | 35m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Jun 2020 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Unfork Ita | 35m, 15 | Blue Mountains | Wed 12th May 2021 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Nikita | 35m, 16 | Blue Mountains | Sat 16th Dec 2023 | |||||
Thought we were doing Unfork Ita by starting up the left line of bolts, but ended up going back into Nikita straight off the ledge which I think is too early for the intended linkup. So while this ascent isn't Nikita proper, I feel it's close enough.
Hard move off the ledge but very cool! Great line. |
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24 | ★★★ Sausages and Light Bulbs | 50m, 18 | Blue Mountains | Sun 25th Jun 2023 | |||||
23 | ★★ St Valentine's Day Massacre - with Heath Black | 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Nov 2019 | ||||
Tricky balancy start then backs off to the top. Draws were up (thanks Neil!) otherwise would be difficult to clip some of the rings. The old carrots are generally in the right place, bring some bolt plates!
|
I linked P1 and P2 into a giant 40m Onsight, then set up an improvised belay just below the roof (using 2 bolts and a #1 cam) so I could reduce the roof and mantle to a manageable boulder problem. These pitches are beautiful, sustained face climbing on great rock. P2 in particular follows a super-cool vague-flake thing with tricky feet, and finishes with an old-school "padding" traverse.
Ticking the roof and mantle took me a bunch of shots (initially cause I was using totally wack beta) and at one point involved such a massive sideways fall that I broke a biner. Once I sorted my beta and rested up, it went down surprisingly easy. I'd probably call the mantle a V3?
Pitch three is quite easy, but has a proper gripping traverse at the grade. I'm glad I didn't fall off.