Ascensiones en Shipley Lower

There happened to be a party on Clockwork Orage when we rocked up, so did the first pitch of this to kill the time.

Despite the description, the “bolted belay” of the adjacent route is actually 2 carrots… so lowered Aidan and then down-led the pitch. Cleaned up an old stuck sling in the process too, which literally pulled apart in my hands.

Awesome fun. That corner looks so intimidating from below, but it climbs surprisingly reasonable.

Sandbagged ourselves by assuming we could rap off, so took packs to the base. I got the honours of bush-bashing out at dusk with the gear and rope, whilst Aidan got to rap down, and do the long walk with one pack stuff inside the other.

had a bit of a time on this one, faffed around bumping gear around then committed to the traverse, got scared and tickled the ground. My partner tried with the same results. Managed to pull through on my second shot with a thank jesus sit once i got a cam in. Then i just had to persevere through a gross hanging belay on two pieces just above the roof. Bring more three's if you like feeling all warm and fuzzy. Pretty classic all up, it felt legit for only being 10m off the ground.

softy but a goody

Radical adventure climb, alot more engaging than flake crack at the grade! Epic rockclimbing

Primo line

Mellow climb. Would be good to have a rap anchor. Would be much more value if you didn’t have to walk back to the waterfall rap past Clockwork Orange.

Hardcore version of Firebug. Definitely harder than 17. Always take a Keith Bell 17 with a grain of salt. Would be much better value if there was a rap anchor at the top of the second pitch.

Thought we were doing Unfork Ita by starting up the left line of bolts, but ended up going back into Nikita straight off the ledge which I think is too early for the intended linkup. So while this ascent isn't Nikita proper, I feel it's close enough.

Hard move off the ledge but very cool! Great line.

Great climb. Had to fight to onsight this one.

Had team send for breakast with Evan. Thanks Nikita for the draws. A memorable send!

Got an early start and gave this awesome route the tag team send it's been begging me for in the cool am

Soooo fkn gooood

Direct

Awesome top section after the ramp.

Brilliant route, let down by some average rock in the middle section. Boxed at the crux on the onsite, muffed the footwork on the second attempt and sent it 3rd go. Highly recommended!

Came off trying to stick the utterly desperate move above the 3rd bolt. Highly agree with the other comments - just pull past this and do the route at 22M1 to open up a super enjoyable and engaging arete route. The 2 cams are bomber but the first placement is hard to see until you've climbed above it.

Sent it clean above that minging 3rd bolt move

Pretty psyched with a 1 sit but blew out a fingertip on the top headwall and had to retire for the day..next time 🤞

Unforgettable

Dogged up 2/3 of the route. Pulled through some hard-ish moves and failed to clip with all the pump and rope drag. Got scared and took a long-ish fall. Fun time!

Great adventure line which is worth the walk down to lower shipply.

First couple of moves on the first pitch are a bit suspect with some absolute choss holds. Make sure you get a spot for this part.

Second pitch is the money, link up with the 3rd pitch to avoid the shit gear at the top of the second pitch.

Second pitch was epic fun! Last pitch was choss central

Cool climbing! Great 1st and 2nd pitches, bit chossy on 3rd pitch.

Fully trad multi! Made a 4 piece anchor at the top of 2, in the slightly sandy potentially breakable rock. Added a bomber hex and cam as backups.. Third pitch was spicy because of said rock quality. Topped out and used the tree, it's good. Bit of bush bashing to get back to upper shipley but thankfully Pedro has a sense of direction, head up and left then down across the creek.

Unreal route!! Finishing that first pitch and viewing the overhanging second pitch is daunting! Took Tom up for his first multi! Killed it! Quite an experience with the extremely high winds and exposure! Linked pitches 2 & 3

Little sidebranch from the upper shitley day. The waterfall was falling upwards with the wind so the rap down was actually a canyon and we were soaked on p1. Committing moves at the start felt trickier than the crux pitch but maybe i was just wet. We were both pretty stoked on the route and stumbled out the top in time to get up 4 pitches at upper. Good stuff