Routes in Stateline Gully

Awesome!!

Start: Obvious.

May require a modicum of thought!

Start: Slab to the right 2m.

Doh! Up left side of small corner to top.

Start: 1m right again.

Cossey?

Start: 2m right again.

Pointless!!!

Start: 60m right of B&L. Right side of the sharp arete on you left as you walk up the gully.

To roof, across it, up arete.

Start: 5m right of B.

Up arete to break, left to end, across and up to arete, up.

Start: 10m right.

Arete.

Start: As for WOB.

To break - take care - up.

Start: 25m right of NF.

Direct finish to WLIAB. Good Value!

Start: As for WLIAB, left a little and onto wall, right to arete and up past 2 bolts to top. 2 bolt belay

Start: Obvious wide crack on the right side of the gully.

Arete and left wall to ledge, walk over mank and choss to top.

Start: 4m right of SL.

Crack over roof to ledge, escape left or finish up KtP.

Start: 7m right of BB.

Start: 'Arete' above previous route.

Start: 2m right of OotB, left hand side of shallow square gully.

Painful. Aptly named.

Start: 6m right of NP.

Corner to roof, left to ledge and up.

Start: 5m right of RHE. (Crunch's Corner start).

Bridging.

Start: Up wall, bridge corner, right and up.

Up to ledge, stroll across right a bit, around overhang and up wall.

Start: 1.5m right of CC.

'...typical 'Junkyard' route. Watch out for old car bodies...looks awful but has an interesting start."

Start: 6m right of TtF.

Spectacular!!!

Start: 3m right, faded initials.

Juggy wall to ledges to desperate beached-whale topout with very little pro .. trash?

Start: 6m right.

Surmount bottom chimney via inside (Cain) or outside (Abel) variant. Bridge to avoid short dirt chute then up short left corner crack.

Surmount bottom chimney via inside (Cain) or outside (Abel) variant. Bridge to avoid short dirt chute then up short right corner crack.

One of the better routes here! It took a 'brains trust'!

Start: 1m right of C.

Start: Yellow bulging wall 8m right of G.

Take seam with bolts - ha ha! - to rejoin KK and up!

Start: As for KK.

One of the best in the area. Do it!!!

Start: 5m right of S.

Solo!

Start: 3m right, wide crack and corner.

Wall and corner left of roof.

Start: 1m right.

Crack to roof and up.

Start: 2m right again.

Start: 5m right. 'Steep' flakey wall.

Im sure they fought over this one!

Start: 4m right.

May be 'marked' incorrectly - who cares!

Start: On lower ledge 20m right of B. Scramble from track!

Start: 3m right of M.

Use tree to get to wall, then flake on wall - bolts - finish left of blocks. Rubbish!

Start: 3m right again.

Up to flake, up and left to wall and vague rest then slightly right and up.

Start: 3m right again.

Take all your friends with you!

Start: Crack 3m right again.

Start: Bolts right.

Start: 4m right of Cosmed!

Start: 2m right again.

Scramble from track, up, up and a bit right.

Start: On lower ledge 10m right and below the previous route.

Traverse right, then flakes to ledge below slab, up to roof then off right.

Start: As for KD.

Marked CC.

Start: 6m right of SP.

"A bit of lurching around on monster buckets, with a great finish. The crux is a bit reachy."

Start: 6m right of CC.

Aparently quite good.

Start: 5m right of HaM, then scramble up 15m to corner.

Corner.

Start: As for S.

Crack, cave and pillar. You can make it harder by jamming through the roof!

Start: 2m right of S.

Bolts to ledge, middle of wall, roof to ledge, up wall. Badly placed pro!

Start: 5m right again.

Up and a bit right.

Start: 2m right and below the previous route.

Good crack and wall. 'WOB' is marked at track level.

Start: 'Grovel' up to ledge 6m right of SD.

...the only 'flared' offwidth at the crag.

Start: Offwidth!

"A very difficult start indeed. Some may even find it necessary to use a cheat stone...all may find it necessary."

Start: 3m right of D at overhang.

Corner and through shale roof, up a bit left. 2). AS for the previous routes.

Start: Open book 2m right.

Corner, left to weakness in overhang, to ledge. 2). Wall and right to crack.

Start: 5m right.

"Not really the Leper's finest hour. The kind of route that gives The Leprosarium its name....the few hard moves getting off the ledge give this climb its grade."

Start: 10m right of TI. Big black wall.

Solo.

Solo.

Start: 7m right.

Up short wall and trudge up corner to wires (bring your own!) deep in the back of the cave above the ferns. 2). Over bulge and to roof, gain corner and up to top.

Start: 12m right of SS. Topo notional - see route marking

The first pitch of this and the 2nd of the previous route sound like the makings of a classic. Ben Cossey??

Start: 2.5m right.

Must have been quite a fight...

Start: Below corner 4m right of HF. Topo notional - see route marking

As for Bi to where corner becomes vertical, right to wall, break and flake, then up BI. No good pro! Take Care.

Start: As for BI.

Up wall, through 2nd rooflet, left to arete, up to ledge, right to tree. 2). Finish as for BI.

Start: 7m right of BI.

Wall and rooflets as for CU, left to the piton then straight up about 3m right of arete to tree. 2). Up BI.

Start: As for CU.

As for CU through 2nd rooflet, right, through overhang, right to arete, up to crack (Boomer). 'Arete' and wall on left to tree. 2). As for BI. No pro!

Start: As for CU.

"Can be pleasant" 1sn and 2nd pitches can be combined if you take care of rope drag.

Start: 4m right again.

Up the wide scrubby crack, right past small roof to ledge, up, slightly left, diagonally right to tree.

Start: 6m right again.

"Obvious...starts in a delightful hand crack."

Start: Corner 10m right of B.

Crack on left wall of corner. Right across choss to ledge, through roof to ledge, overhang, right to vorner, up to ledge. Right wall and slab to scrubby ledge, scramble through vegetation to gully and up.

Start: 12m right of AC.

Into small left facing corner, up, right to ledge, right, up, back left, to ledge and cave. 2). Chimney then left,up into right crack then wall.

Start: 25m right of TSoSF.

To roof, left and up corner then crack or wall.

Start: Obvious line 32m right again.