Route in Gondwana

This climb takes the buttress right of The Emu. Pitches 1 & 2 are enjoyable climbing on good rock. The third pitch is a more serious lead, not offering much protection. The climb wanders up from here. Start: At the first main buttress 50m right of The Emu. Scramble unroped (maybe 15m?) up left gully until blocked by steepening rock.

1. 33m. Climb left gully for 5m and traverse right over arete and then up on jugs to cave. Exposed - move right past bolt runner to large friend belay on right arete

2. 37m. Up juggy wall right of arete to ledge and climb left side of arete to top of large block.

3. 28m. (Crux) Start on main wall at broken drill hole. Mantle up and climb immediately right onto grovel ledge. Interesting move around arete and climb wall to tree belay.

4. 30m. Easy up wall and wonder right to tree belay.

5. 20m. Walk right for 12m and up on juggy rock and scrub.

6. 30m. Climb black slabs to slab ledge. Next three pitches zig zag through the choss overhangs.

7. 15m. Move left 7m and climb steep juggy wall to ledge.

8. 30m. Traverse right on ledge over choss.

9. 20m. Continue traversing right and up short wall.

Paul Davies, Hayden Brotchie 22.8.96 (Alternate Leads)