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Routes as trad in The Noisy Place

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Showing all 24 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
18 Petrophile Pulchella

The first climb on the left side (facing out). Start 4m left of G.O, up past 4 bolts and a distinct reachy crux. #2 and #3 cam for top to hidden lower off anchors.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Mixed trad 15m, 4
19 Goat's Overhead

Starts at tree stump in middle of the buttress. Begin with a couple of medium sized cams then five bolts up face and through roof. Lower off or even better rap from old chains (that slaughter your rope). Rebolted June 2014

FA: A.Farquar, Murphy & G.Williams, 1990

Mixed trad 20m, 5
20 Kneely There

Best route on the wall. Starts right of tree stumpy. Clip first bolt from twin pocket then hard move leads to #0.5 cam break. Then straight up wall passing 5 more bolts and #2 cam to double ring loweroff.

FFA: Eww, 14 May 2015

Mixed trad 15m, 5
18 Unbolted 2

Bolts and anchor removed 5/5/19. Kneely There is really near. Farewell Bwian Bwown!

FA: A.Farquar & A.Jones, 1989

Mixed trad 15m, 3
23 Intimidation

Start off teetering cairn 4m LEFT of Twisted Ash.

'Steep' crack all the way through top flake in roof. Bring 4 bolt plates. Belay carrots set 6m back from top.

FA: A.Farquar, 1995

Mixed trad 18m, 4
22 Twister Ash

Start in left side of alcove, just left of choss wall with roof crack. From corner move left to #2 Friend break, up to BR. Traverse under roof, up past 2 FHs, fixed wire and #3 Friend. Stay on small arete. Lower-off rings at top - all other bolts are originals.

FA: F.Yule & P.Tansley, 1991

Mixed trad 15m, 3
18 La dura dura dura dura dura

Corner/roof right of Twisted Ash. Bring extra #3 & #4. Build belay before last mantle, walk off.

FA: Eric Butler, 2013

Trad 20m
Roof crack - project?

5m right of La Dura is an appealing choss wall capped by a prominent 30-45mm crack through a dead flat 4m roof with a single ringbolt?? over the lip.

Either a project or unrecorded climb. Could be easier and safer, or cheating, to traverse in from the corners at either side. Looks hard, but possibly only 28’ish…

Mixed tradProject 1
Imperfectly Safe - Project

Up right hand corner with care, out right hand roof and up to 2 carrot belay. Rap or scramble off with care.

TradProject
Ommitment Compassion Comradery

Continuation of crack in middle of wall to top. Passing two carrots and a good horizontal (med cams) near top. Tree anchor set 10m back hence 50m route length.

Mixed trad 50m, 2
22 Unbolted 3

all bolts removed 7/5/19

FA: A.Farquar, 1990

Trad 12m
22 Unbolted 4

All bolts removed 7/5/19

FA: A.Farquar, 1994

Trad 15m
21 Unbolted 5

All bolts removed 7/5/19

FA: A.Farquar, A.Jones & B.Pearse, 1989

Trad 12m
22 Cat Scratch Fever

Not a great warmup! Mixed face route with one very hard move that is harder than anything on the 24 to the left. Medium wire and small cam to bolted finish (FH at crux). No anchor - scramble through tree and top-out or just lower off last bolt.

FA: A.Farquar & A.Jones, 1989

Mixed trad 15m, 3
24 Chilled Puppy Complex

Excellent orange face with a distinct crux. Hard committing start (or stick clip) and past 4 FHs to anchor chain over top (or use lower offs on the 24 to the left). This is still a mixed route and requires medium size cams.

FA: A.Farquar, 1990

Mixed trad 15m, 4
22 Endotoxic Shock

Hairline crack with one bolt at the start (where the heinous sandbag crux lives). The top is just good fun well protected pods. Lower-off anchors at the top.

FA: A.Farquar, A.Jones & B.Pearse, 1989

Mixed trad 15m, 1
25 Unbolted 6

All bolts and anchors removed 7/5/19

FA: A.Farquar, 1991

Trad 15m
22 Die, Fox, Die

Rattly finger / thin hand crack splitting the face, quite unique and sustained for the mountains. Sling a tree to rap/lower off and retrieve easily on way back up track.

FA: M.Baker, 1990

Trad 15m
14 The Crunched Dog and the Ducati

Clean corner crack on left end of wall. Layback or jam - you choose.

FA: A.Farquar, 1989

Trad 15m
17 Green Eggs and Ham

Black arete 2m left of The Crunched Dog with two rusty carrots

FA: G.Williams & A.Farquar, 1990

Mixed trad 14m, 2
21 Beepers and Biters

Start: Undercut left of GE&H. Dyno first move.

FA: A.Farquar & B.Pearse, 1989

Trad 15m
17 Sodom

Start: 20m left of GE&H. Slab. Right hand route.

FA: A.Jones & A.Farquar, 1989

Trad 15m
20 Gomorrah

Start: 2m left again, in a sea of greasy red lichen.

FA: A.Jones & G.Williams, 1991

Trad 15m
14 Whippet Overboard

Start: Left end of the slab.

FA: G.Williams & A.Farquar, 1990

Trad 10m

Showing all 24 routes.

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