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Routes as sport in Shakes and Flakes Wall

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Showing all 5 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
25 The Racer's Edge

Proud black arete. Best to start on the left side of the scoops at short flake crack past a BR (shared start with E Racer). The rest has been rebolted with rings - but still worth bringing a # 4 and # 0.75 cam for the runout easy middle section. Can be finished two ways - both the same grade. The original finish heads left up the cleaner streak away from the arete for the last two bolts (same finish as E Racer). The arete direct is still really good climbing but a little mossier.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

Sport 30m, 9
23 E Racer

Line of bolts 2m left of Racer's Edge which eventually joins into that routes original left trending finish right at the top. A mix of FHs, carrots and rings. At the 3rd bolt trend right boldly into Racers Edge for a few moves then back left to the worn sidepull (doing the move without this dogleg looks highly contrived and very hard!). Graded 24/25 in the Carter print guide.

FA: I Valenta, 2014

Sport 30m, 7
21 Shakes and Flakes

Great technical slab/face climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Only one bracket required for the high first bolt - the remaining are FHs and rings.

FA: M.Law & M.Johnson, 1979

Sport 30m
23 Let's Nail God

The wall directly below the lower-off for Shakes and Flakes - shares the top 2 bolts of that route. No brackets required. About 7 or 8 bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1990

Sport 30m
23 Tips for Troubadours

Blank, but with hidden holds. Just left of Let's Nail God - and shares that routes easy slab start and first high ringbolt. Once established on the main wall weave around on good edges and small pockets to exciting finish just right of arete to lower-offs. The original version traversed right above the anchors across mossy slab to join into top of Shakes and Flakes - this is still possible but requires a long runner.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

Sport 30m

Showing all 5 routes.

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