Routes as trad in Cocker's Gully

This 'well known test piece' is about 15 metres down Cocker's Gully on the right hand side of a small buttress. Up the crack to a ledge then up the short wall.

Start about 25 metres down the gully from Crack of Dawn. Climb the crack on the left of the buttress, up the rubble blocks and a crack to the top.

Start ten metres left of (and around the corner from) Idle Moments. Climb the finger crack, widening up higher.

Start just left of an arete, five metres left of Idle Moments. A boulder problem up the short wall past two bolts leads to easier climbing up right to the arete, to finish up Packer Gets First Cone. The second bolt was missing a hanger at last report.

Contrived climbing up the brushed wall with three bolts. Start just right of the arete and a metre left of the Idle Moments crack (hands off). A hard start, then straight up the wall/arete, finishing with a mantle.

The left-most crack in the corner alcove. Climb the crack and corner to a crux move over the summit bulge (originally a dubious tree root provided a handy jug here, but this has vanished).

Desperate! Start up the corner (Battle of the Bulge), then move left to the central crack on the left-hand wall. Climb up to and through the bulge (bolt), then straight on up.

The wide corner, which is either laybacked or jammed. A bolt obviates the need for super-large gear (#5 Camelot is nice)

Hard slabbing. Climb the crack (Plimsoll Line) for five metres then step left onto the wall. Crimp delicately past three bolts and finish up a short crack. Name changed by Mike in 2023.

Tacks on a little extra. Climb the crack to the left of the belay ledge.

Good varied climbing that is quite delicate in places. Up the crack on the right wall, moving right to a belay ledge at the top.

Chimney up the prominent fissure right of Scungy Wall.

Up the flared chimney and crack above, step right at the horizontal break and continue to the top.

The tree may now be burnt, but it was on. The roof and crack between Stentor and Snot. Pull through the horizontal break then up the crack to the top.

Apparently better than the name. The chimney a few metres right of Treason.

1. 25 metres - Up the chimney and corner above to a good ledge.

2. 20 metres - Climb the leftwards slanting crack then the block and arete.

Thin and fingery face moves up the downhill end of the buttress, with wires and bolts.

The thin, left-slanting crack. Placing protection is strenuous.

The climb's bad but the name (Realised Ultimate Reality South Pacific Beach Bum Walrus) is worse. Up the crack to an awkward mantle, and continue up the off-width.