Route as trad in Hermes

A classic. The intimidating roof section is easier than it look. Start at the left-hand side of the pillar four metres left of 'Little Hermes'. A large cam is required to safely protect both pitches (#5 is ideal, but a #4 will suffice if you're happy to wriggle in to place it).

1. 24 metres - Climb the chimney and corner crack to the top, step right and climb a short wall to a good ledge. Climb the slab, using a thin crack, to a tree belay (originally done in two pitches).

2. 26 metres - Up the magnificent corner crack (#5 protects potential ledge fall) and out right under the overhang. Belay on the ledge above or eight metres right.