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Routes in Booroomba Rocks for selected grade

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
South Buttress Integral face
11 Marmalade

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

  1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.

  2. Left over ledges then up the slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

FA: John Price & Peter Aitchison, 1967

Trad 44m, 2
South Buttress Peter Pan Area
11 Peter Pan Variant Start

Start 10 metres left as for Rise and Fall, but take the right-hand crack.

FA: Peter Cocker & Peter Sands, 1966

Trad 15m
South Buttress Possum area
11 Pseudopossum

An easier variant of Possum. Start from the first belay on Possum.

  1. 16m - Right along the ledge from the belay then back left up a ramp to join the second pitch of Possum at the end of the traverse; up to the big ledge.

  2. 10m - Walk up the slab and corner behind the trees.

FA: Unknown

Trad 26m, 2
South Buttress Cocker's Gully
11 Channel Chimney

Chimney up the prominent fissure right of Scungy Wall.

FA: Neil Anderson & Peter Aitchison, 1969

Trad 25m
North Buttress Northern Slabs
11 Prohibition

An easy enjoyable slab on very coarse rock with a surprisingly exposed second pitch. Start 15m left of Tachyon and up through the scrub, where a vegetated ramp heads right and a crack/ramp heads left.

  1. 17m - Climb the leftward slanting crack to the foot of the ramp.

  2. 22m - Diagonally right on the slab above the ramp to a recess at 7m, then up (crux) trending slightly right to a ledge with a large, loose block.

  3. 45m - Straight up then slightly right to avoid the overlap. Continue steeply right to a horizontal crack. Above the crack either brave the lichen or move right slightly to join the final pitch of Eagle Eye Direct.

FA: Tony Wood & Ian Taylor, 1970

Trad 74m
11 Melmoth

Another easy slab, with small gear. Start 15m left of 'Aquanaut' at a wide, shallow groove with incipient cracks.

  1. 34m - Up the slab then the groove (crux) to a ledge and DBB.

  2. 27m - Easy climbing up the orange scoopy rock to the overlap. Climb the overlap then continue up the low-angled scoop and right to the ledge and abseil anchors. Finish up the third pitch of 'Drunken Delight' or walk off.

FA: J. Hoskins, 1971

Trad 80m, 2
11 Euripus

Parallel to 'Melmoth', starting about 10m to the left. Unlike Melmoth this route feels like a climb.

  1. 33m - Climb the slab moving slightly right to the crack. Up the crack then step right and climb easy slabs to trad belay on the ledge.

  2. 40m - Easily left to a large block below the black water streak. Climb the water streak then up the grippy slab to belay at the overlap.

  3. 10 metres - Climb the short wall on hollow rock. Walk off right.

FA: John Armstrong, 1971

Trad 83m
Darwin Buttress
11 Slim Fingers Crack

At the extreme right. Up the twin cracks, finishing to the left.

FA: Peter Cocker & John Armstrong, 1971

Trad 15m

Showing all 8 routes.

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