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Route as trad in Equilibrium

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
17 Equilibrium
1 15 50m
2 17 35m
3 28m
4 24m

Quality climbing and one of the more popular routes in the area. The start is marked with a faint "E" (no longer visible as of 2017) and is located approximately 40m left of Denethor. This is around 10m right of Sunstroke.

  1. 50m (15*) A rope stretcher. Climb the left slainting groove for approximately 20m. Traverse right to sloping ledge and long break (cams). Head up the slab above to DBB rap station.

  2. 35m (17**) The money pitch. Traverse left and up to first bolt. Directly up to vertical break and 2nd bolt. Keep padding away to tree belay.

  3. 28m - Climb right along the overlap until you reach a wide crack. Up this to the slab above, and continue to the next overlap.

  4. 24m - Continue right along the slab to the corner then climb the overlap. This is now easier following the demise of an enormous flake. Move diagonally right on the higher slab to a short corner. Up this to tree belay. Walk off.

Various alternative finishes are possible from the top of P2: traverse right to join 'Counterbalance' or 'Balance'; traverse down and left to join 'Solantic'; or climb 'Grandad's Big Day Out'.

Rebolted 2011.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Peter Cocker, 1969

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 2

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