Routes in Black Stump Buttresses

Line of rings to ledge, crux boulder problem at top.

Start: Left side of buttress.

Up face to ledge then top. 3m Right of Coral Reef.

Start as for Bio-orgasmic Plasma Gun, traverse left at the ledge, then up the off-width. Top out and tree belay.

Start 2 metres to the right of Rename. Climbs the orange slab, until you hit the headwall with some insecure and reachy moves. Lower off.

Up L side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off.

Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.

Start up the far left side of the cliff left of unknown, slinging tree. Up to ledge, traverse across placing natural gear and up the cracked blocks to top out.

An unknown route to the left of Pink Panzer. A long move to a large undercling guards the second bolt. Mosey upward, avoiding some questionable rock, after which a second crux can be found pulling the bulge above the ledge. Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with PP.

2m L of HITHP. One of the best grade 18's at the cliff. A little pumpy before the rooflet, but has some great moves for the grade and is very well protected.

Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RBs to lower-off. Crimpy for three bolts, before moving left into corner with pumpy climbing ensuing.

Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly right of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.

In memory of Annabel Choy. Up steep wall to double U-bolt belay.

Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to double U-bolt belay.

Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD.

Alright pro with an exciting topout before clipping the Anchor. Uses Sun Chaser's lower off.

Start: About 1 meter left of 'Sun Chaser', straight up the crack.

Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB.

Starts just to the right of Sun Chaser. Contrived route on ringbolts.

6m right of Via the Rainbow. Climb pockets to ledge. Up face to slopey exit. Poor pro. More of a solo. Anchor off gumtree.

Rebolted. A rising traverse which begins on the gritty apron to the left. Crappy rock in the lower half soon gives way to more solid terrain with a few delicate, balancy moves.

Five UBs, joining Spike at last bolt. Hard start.

Hard start. Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broken off the start, increasing the grade from 18.

Heel hook start, quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains.

Very thin start (direct), quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UBs to DUBB.

Starting in the corner just to the left of 'Little Wednesday'.

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off. Find a gullible seconder to clean.

Start 2 metres right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

The overhanging fist crack between Big Friday and Passage.

Finish as for Passage. Plenty of gear is available in the passage section so resist the urge to clip bolts for maximum Trad Lass/Lad points.

Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UBs to DUBB. Stays to the L of the UBs, with "Right Of Passage" staying to the R (hence the name).

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

A Link-Up. Up 2 bolts of right of passage then to 3rd bolt of dream catcher. Traverse up and right into the crux of shake and bake (avoid the temptation to drop down a few moves to the start of the crux) and finish up S&B. Changes the crux a fair bit and adds a dozen or more moves to the start. I enjoyed it.

Similar start as to RoP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

Thin and techy, just R of Dreamcatcher. Five RBs to DBB. Possibly harder to onsight than the ever popular Little Wednesday. Beware of the red ants.

Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.

After a long week without climbing due to injury, addicted climbers start suffering Climbing Deprivation. After going with his friends to the crag to just belay and take pictures the subject develops Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder. The symptoms include palpitations or pounding heart, accelerated heart rate, sweating, trembling or shaking, dry mouth (not due to medication or dehydration), trying to mentally on-sight a 25, and falling. The only apparent cure for this disorder is to find an easy nearby climb to solo. At Black Stump, this is it.

Easy and dirty climb. A few nice hand jambs and back footing and you are on the ledge. From there, take some pictures of your girlfriend doing a real climb or your friends struggling to clean Little Wednesday. Then chimney up and top out to clean one of your friend's climbs and at least feel you did something productive for the day. If a 7 is too hard for your injury, then change your sneakers and get your climbing shoes.

Since it was my only climb in a whole week I might be overselling it. It's probably (definitely) an awful climb not worth doing.

Starts 2m left of My Brothers Keeper. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBK.

Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.