Showing all 67 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
27 | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Mary Valley Rattler
Start clipped into the 2nd bolt of Central to Blackheath. Reachy moves to the lip before powering up to the big rail next to the bolt. Work your way round and clip the last bolt under the roof before committing left through the crimpy slab traverse. Rejoins Blackheath for the last bolt and anchors. FA: Rainer Scheu & Bryson Klein, 2023 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | |||||
26 | Crimp And Dyno | 7m | |||
26 | ★★★ Thomas the Crank Engine
A linkup. Crank out the moves on the Mary Valley start and keep that train rolling through the Blackheath finish. FA: Rainer Scheu & Bryson Klein, 2023 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★ The Time is Right
Start 2m R of CTBH the right trending line of bolts under the scary block. Crank around the lip and climb up to DBB. FA: Steve Kloske & Henk Morgans FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 15m, 6 | |||
V5 | |||||
V5 | ★ Crimp & Dyno (Boulder Version)
Was a mini-route, now a boulder problem. Single ringbolt on white wall. Boulder problem to dyno, then up to tree. V5 or 26 FA: Hayden, 2004 | ||||
25 | |||||
25 | ★★ The Great Knut
Climb left from the corner then blast straight up passing several RBs until you reach the DBB. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 18m | |||
25 | ★★★ Tangential to Blackheath
A linkup. Central to Blackheath start into Rattler slab crux. FA: Rainer Scheu & Bryson Klein, 2023 | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | Dreaming of the Blueys
FA: Hayden, 2004 | 15m | |||
25 | Lithgow Layback
Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge. FA: Hayden, 2004 | 15m, 3 | |||
24 | |||||
24 | Don’t chop me, climb me
Left hand variation, joining back at the crux of Woosah FFA: Cal, 1 Jun 2023 | 25m | |||
24 | ★ Woosah
Starts 10 metres right of JG in corner. Start easily on rings trending right. Clip 6th bolt with a long sling and move out left to the arete. Climb arete to anchor at top of the wall. FA: Graham Page | 25m | |||
24 | ★★★ Central To Blackheath
Start on the right of the cave under the overhang. Up to the first bolt then traverse left under the roof until you can pull over. Second to clean. FA: Graham Page, 2009 | 15m, 6 | |||
24 | ★ Bosnian Broth
The L route with two RBs. Sustained crimping and tech footwork, the mantle is interesting. FA: Saul Squires, 1996 | 7m, 2 | |||
23 | |||||
23 | ★★ Stepping Stone
Feeling kinda sporty? Start: The thin wall 3m L of corner and 2m R of arête. FA: Albury Carter, 1997 | 10m, 3 | |||
23 | Who Is On First!
Climb the crack on natural gear to the juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above. Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's vegetated and needs cleaning. Start: Starts about 15m L of "CAC" at crackline running through the middle of the wall below the roof. FA: Herb Brandmeier, 2000 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ Blinky Bill's American Breakfast
The R route with three rings. You'll want to stick clip the first one. FA: Aubury Carter, 1997 | 8m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Tally-Ho The Fox
Initialled. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings. FA: Herb Brandmeier Paul wright, 1991 | 25m | |||
23 | Spoonmate
Start 4 meter left of 'Fatman Scoop'. Follow the shallow rib till you hit the break. Rock over a rooflet to get to the anchor. Unfinished, needed to recharge. Set: Radest, 2010 | 21m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Fatman Scoop
Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off. FA: Lee Cujes, 2009 | 20m, 4 | |||
22 | |||||
22 | ★★ The Finest Climb on the Edge of a Dime
Scramble up to starting platform as per the next route, and continue scrambling up the gully a little. Stick clip first bolt on left wall of the gully. Climb the right trending rings to high anchor at the top of the wall. FA: Steve Kloske | 15m | |||
22 | ★ Johnny Gun
Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BRs), then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station. FA: Heath Black, 1997 | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | Hero
Contrived, but fun variation to Celluloid Hero. Climb to the right, keeping bolts on your left FA: Raven, 20 Dec 2021 | 2 | |||
22 | ★ Prima Donna
Start: 2 Metres left of 'Prima Diva' FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002 | 8m, 3 | |||
21 | |||||
21 | ★ Mr Tinder
The middle of the three routes on the platform. Steep jug pulling for three bolts, until a tricky move right to topout. Keep moving up the slab, staying on the left side of the corner feature, finishing with some gritstone style trickery to anchor. FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham | 18m | |||
21 | ★ Woosah Variant
Climb Woosah until you reach the large ringbolt where you would normally move left to the arete. Instead move right and up into the corner, before moving back left to finish up Woosah at its last bolt. Confusing, I know. FA: Graham Page | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Celluloid Hero
There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station. FA: Herb Brandmeier | 15m | |||
20 | |||||
20 | Bust A Move
Marked BAM. Four BRs and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later. Start: 3m L of arête FA: G Page, 2004 | 10m, 4 | |||
20 | Let's Bail
One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank. Start: The arête 5m L of corner. FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty., 1993 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Community
Climb up corner trending right to pull the lip out left past 4 RBs to anchor on large ledge. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 17m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Hanging Gardens
Starting about 30metres left of JG on obvious platform, with a gully/scree on the right. Scramble up to starting platform, but can belay from the ground. This is the right of the three close together climbs on the platform. Climb the jugs for four rings, before a hard topout. The climb completely changes character, as you move up the slab staying right of corner feature, while encountering a few sketchy moves on gritty rock. Anchor is way over the top out of sight. FA: Steve Kloske | 20m | |||
19 | |||||
19 | The Dog's Day Off
The vertical crackline 1m R of LB. | 10m | |||
19 | ★ Love Hurts
Starting on same platform as previous two climbs. This is left route of the three. Climbs the steep wall trending left for three bolts before tipping out and continuing up slab for another two bolts to anchor. FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham | 16m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Leave No Tern Unstoned
3m L of the arête you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Climb the blocky corner (originally done on natural gear) to beneath the daunting but surprisingly juggy wall. Climb this overhang on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out. The chain is way back, recommend bringing up a second to clean and rap down. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 13m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Looking For The Sun
The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crack line. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb! Start: Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993 | 40m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Private Investigation
Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight up rain drain on RB's. Up onto and through steep orange wall. Start: Start 3 left of Tally-ho the fox FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 25m, 6 | |||
18 | |||||
18 | Pantsed
L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheatre is this pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With its bottomless start, it could be harder. | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Prima Diva
Start: Start 3 metres left of CW FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002 | 8m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Digit Crucifixion
Tough start. Start: Start 3 metres left of TGWLOHH. FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993 | 10m, 1 | |||
18 | ★★ Up a Rat in a Drainpipe
A steep, fun start off the ledge. 7 UBs and take a couple of slings. You can finish either L through the bulge (recommended) or R up the black slab (both variants are bolted). Start: Belay from bolts on ledge. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002 | 20m, 7 | |||
17 | |||||
17 | Prospector | 20m | |||
17 | The Skirt
Starts 1m left of Celluloid Hero on the arête. Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to ledge. Finish at Celluloid Hero's anchors. | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Little Ray Of Sunshine
Start 3m left of '2,4,5-T'. Hard moves (crux) to the first bolt, then easy to final roof. Climb through roof direct. FA: G Page & D O'Flaherty | 45m, 10 | |||
17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T
Nicest of the three. Fully bolted with runouts on some easy sections. No rings at top, so check how you plan to set up a top belay before you climb. Start: Start at right of tree at end of corridor FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998 | 42m, 9 | |||
17 | ★★ Send Me an Angel
A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RBs. FA: Graham Page & Clint Westwood, 2000 | 40m, 11 | |||
17 | ★ The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill
Anyone who can provide any insight into the rationale for this route name or provide route beta please do so here, thanks. FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993 | 8m | |||
17 | ★★ Free Range Heggs
Great climb up some beautiful and exposed orange rock. Access the start of the climb by climbing 'Digit Crucifixion' or scramble up to large ledge from the right. Belay from DUBB. BR's have been replaced with hangers. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002 | 20m, 8 | |||
17 X | |||||
17 X | (Unknown 2)
Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to a tree belay. (Safety note: we've been told this tree is now very dodgy - take care!) Start: Starts 1m L of CH on the arête. | 15m | |||
16 | |||||
16 | ★ Chicken Wings
Start: Start 4 metres left of CAC FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002 | 15m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Choss And Chickenheads
Start: Start about 35m L of LFTS and 1m L of detached pillar of rock. Now a fully bolted sport route. | 45m | |||
16 | ★★ It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy
Start at the end of the corridor, about 5m left of LFTS. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002 | 45m, 8 | |||
16 | ★★ The Pioneer
A good introduction to lead climbing, 11 RBs lead to a pumpy and steep finish, mantle then a top belay. Start: 5m L of LFTS. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998 | 40m, 11 | |||
15 | |||||
15 | Random Freak
Nearly gets a star! Start up corner as for Woosah Variant, using ring bolts for Unknown on your right or natural gear, take your pick. Continue straight up to horizontal hand crack, traversing right and up crack on good natural pro. Rap off huge tree or chains as for Woosah. FA: Ryley Broekman & Adam Finney, 25 Mar 2016 | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Tea for 2
Now fully bolted with rings. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998 | 35m, 10 | |||
15 | ★ Miss Kandy Kane
The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off. FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1999 | 20m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Miss Manners
Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK. FA: Sam Cujes, 2009 | 20m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Falkor
Up the well protected blunt arete, steeper than it looks. Please update with the name if you know. | 8m | |||
14 | |||||
14 | ★ 2 For Tea
Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998 | 32m, 9 | |||
14 | ★ Travails of a Tripping Termite
Long (pointless?) traverse. Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill. FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993 | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Rumpelstilzchen
Up the orange streak 2m L of G. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 7m | |||
14 | ★ Giftzwerg
15m L of L. Up to L of crack. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 8m | |||
14 | Lilliputian
The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 6m | |||
14 R | |||||
14 R | ★ Piccolo
Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 6m | |||
13 | |||||
13 | Meandering Maze | 35m | |||
13 | ★ Reid Road Rally Race
Up the sloping ramp on good holds to a set of big Brooyar rings on top. | 14m, 6 | |||
11 | |||||
11 | The Big Nothing
This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay. Start: 8m R of the Let's Bail arete. | 7m | |||
11 | ★ Lichenous Fury
Little trad climb. Take a big cam Start: Below the starting boulder of '2 For Tea'. FA: Matt Schimke & Chester Ryan, 2008 | 6m | |||
10 | |||||
10 | Treason
FA: Matt Schimke | 7m |
Showing all 67 routes.