Routen in Eagle's Nest

The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb.

15m L of L. Up to L of crack.

Up the orange streak 2m L of G.

Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.

Up the well protected blunt arete, steeper than it looks. Please update with the name if you know.

Up the sloping ramp on good holds to a set of big Brooyar rings on top.

The line of FH's starting partway up the gully of UR3 and heading R up the face.

Line of FH's up the sloping gully just L of UR2.

Long (pointless?) traverse.

Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill.

Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off.

Start 4 meter left of 'Fatman Scoop'. Follow the shallow rib till you hit the break. Rock over a rooflet to get to the anchor. Unfinished, needed to recharge.

Initialled. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings.

Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight up rain drain on RB's. Up onto and through steep orange wall. Start: Start 3 left of Tally-ho the fox

A steep, fun start off the ledge. 7 UBs and take a couple of slings. You can finish either L through the bulge (recommended) or R up the black slab (both variants are bolted).

Start: Belay from bolts on ledge.

Great climb up some beautiful and exposed orange rock. Access the start of the climb by climbing 'Digit Crucifixion' or scramble up to large ledge from the right. Belay from DUBB. BR's have been replaced with hangers.

Tough start.

Start: Start 3 metres left of TGWLOHH.

Anyone who can provide any insight into the rationale for this route name or provide route beta please do so here, thanks.

The L route with two RBs. Sustained crimping and tech footwork, the mantle is interesting.

The R route with three rings. You'll want to stick clip the first one.

The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crack line. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb!

Start: Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête.

A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RBs.

A good introduction to lead climbing, 11 RBs lead to a pumpy and steep finish, mantle then a top belay.

Start: 5m L of LFTS.

Little trad climb. Take a big cam

Start: Below the starting boulder of '2 For Tea'.

Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

Now fully bolted with rings.

Nicest of the three. Fully bolted with runouts on some easy sections. No rings at top, so check how you plan to set up a top belay before you climb.

Start: Start at right of tree at end of corridor

Start 3m left of '2,4,5-T'. Hard moves (crux) to the first bolt, then easy to final roof. Climb through roof direct.

Start at the end of the corridor, about 5m left of LFTS.

Start: Start about 35m L of LFTS and 1m L of detached pillar of rock.

Now a fully bolted sport route.

Start: Start 4 metres left of CAC

Start: Start 3 metres left of CW

Start: 2 Metres left of 'Prima Diva'

Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge.

Climb the crack on natural gear to the juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above. Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's vegetated and needs cleaning.

Start: Starts about 15m L of "CAC" at crackline running through the middle of the wall below the roof.

The small roof to the right of CH. Closed project.

Contrived, but fun variation to Celluloid Hero. Climb to the right, keeping bolts on your left

There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.

Starts 1m left of Celluloid Hero on the arête. Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to ledge. Finish at Celluloid Hero's anchors.

3m L of the arête you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Climb the blocky corner (originally done on natural gear) to beneath the daunting but surprisingly juggy wall. Climb this overhang on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out. The chain is way back, recommend bringing up a second to clean and rap down.

Start 2m R of CTBH the right trending line of bolts under the scary block. Crank around the lip and climb up to DBB.

Start on the right of the cave under the overhang. Up to the first bolt then traverse left under the roof until you can pull over. Second to clean.

A linkup. Central to Blackheath start into Rattler slab crux.

A linkup. Crank out the moves on the Mary Valley start and keep that train rolling through the Blackheath finish.

Start clipped into the 2nd bolt of Central to Blackheath. Reachy moves to the lip before powering up to the big rail next to the bolt. Work your way round and clip the last bolt under the roof before committing left through the crimpy slab traverse. Rejoins Blackheath for the last bolt and anchors.

L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheatre is this pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With its bottomless start, it could be harder.

An unfinished project to the right of Woosah on slab. Has a black diamond sling threaded through first ringbolt. Bolting is unfinished, as it needs a second bolt and anchor.

Nearly gets a star! Start up corner as for Woosah Variant, using ring bolts for Unknown on your right or natural gear, take your pick. Continue straight up to horizontal hand crack, traversing right and up crack on good natural pro. Rap off huge tree or chains as for Woosah.

Climb Woosah until you reach the large ringbolt where you would normally move left to the arete. Instead move right and up into the corner, before moving back left to finish up Woosah at its last bolt. Confusing, I know.

Starts 10 metres right of JG in corner. Start easily on rings trending right. Clip 6th bolt with a long sling and move out left to the arete. Climb arete to anchor at top of the wall.

Left hand variation, joining back at the crux of Woosah

Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BRs), then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station.

Scramble up to starting platform as per the next route, and continue scrambling up the gully a little. Stick clip first bolt on left wall of the gully. Climb the right trending rings to high anchor at the top of the wall.

Starting about 30metres left of JG on obvious platform, with a gully/scree on the right. Scramble up to starting platform, but can belay from the ground. This is the right of the three close together climbs on the platform. Climb the jugs for four rings, before a hard topout. The climb completely changes character, as you move up the slab staying right of corner feature, while encountering a few sketchy moves on gritty rock. Anchor is way over the top out of sight.

The middle of the three routes on the platform. Steep jug pulling for three bolts, until a tricky move right to topout. Keep moving up the slab, staying on the left side of the corner feature, finishing with some gritstone style trickery to anchor.

Starting on same platform as previous two climbs. This is left route of the three. Climbs the steep wall trending left for three bolts before tipping out and continuing up slab for another two bolts to anchor.

Climb up corner trending right to pull the lip out left past 4 RBs to anchor on large ledge.

Climb left from the corner then blast straight up passing several RBs until you reach the DBB.

This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay.

Start: 8m R of the Let's Bail arete.

Was a mini-route, now a boulder problem. Single ringbolt on white wall. Boulder problem to dyno, then up to tree. V5 or 26

Feeling kinda sporty?

Start: The thin wall 3m L of corner and 2m R of arête.

The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank.

Start: The arête 5m L of corner.

Marked BAM. Four BRs and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.

Start: 3m L of arête

Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to a tree belay. (Safety note: we've been told this tree is now very dodgy - take care!)

Start: Starts 1m L of CH on the arête.

Shallow orange corner. BRs.