Routes in Brooyar

Start: Start about 35m L of LFTS and 1m L of detached pillar of rock.

Now a fully bolted sport route.

"Big, evil, overhung crack thing". The R-leaning overhung corner to ledge, then up crack to top. A bit grungy.

L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheatre is this pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With its bottomless start, it could be harder.

More herb unethical chipping.

A pumpy endurance number. The smooth flake starting on the very far L and traversing R (remember, no bottom ledge). At the end, drop down to the next flake, then a long move past blankness (crux) and continue to finish on little prow.

Sit start as for Swiss 🧀. Traverse right and link into 🥜 Pebble.

Doesn't see many ascents, might actually contain okay climbing under all the lichen but nobody can say for sure.

Start: Start 2m left of TJC

Please stay off until sent.

The middle of the three routes on the platform. Steep jug pulling for three bolts, until a tricky move right to topout. Keep moving up the slab, staying on the left side of the corner feature, finishing with some gritstone style trickery to anchor.

R to L traverse. Total bum dragger, bring ya shovel. Lay down start as far R as you can, traverse L across the great slopers, pull up where logical and traverse into the flake. Monkey out roof and top out or just drop off the jugs on the top face. Perfect example of the absurdity of bouldering.

After the first bolt, move up and right to a #2.5 SLCD at R of horizontal break, then around arete. More natural and FH. R into "pea-pod" then back L.

Climb Woosah until you reach the large ringbolt where you would normally move left to the arete. Instead move right and up into the corner, before moving back left to finish up Woosah at its last bolt. Confusing, I know.

The Right hand (3rd) bolt on the bird / spread your wings. please stay off until sent

After 2nd bolt go right not straight up.

Sit start matched on pebble.

2m R of AWITG. Filthy and lichenous. To see any action this route would need a thorough cleaning and bolting. Starts at the obvious undercling then straight up the wall on worsening slopes. Crux at 4.5m.

Not Inspiring.

Start: Middle of right-facing wall.

Starting on same platform as previous two climbs. This is left route of the three. Climbs the steep wall trending left for three bolts before tipping out and continuing up slab for another two bolts to anchor.

Project on ring bolts.

Start 2m R of CTBH the right trending line of bolts under the scary block. Crank around the lip and climb up to DBB.

Up thin crack.

Sit start with divits on rail. Up and left

Oliver Rickford

Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC. Recently rebolted with three FHs to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with.

Now an independent route! Starts right under ICSJ, and climbs the rings to ledge. Big, stupid runout to the third RB, before climbing straight up the white streak with a technical move near the top. Fun climbing, but beware the runouts in a few places.

Starting on same platform as previous two climbs. This is left route of the three. Climbs the steep wall trending left for three bolts before tipping out and continuing up slab for another two bolts to anchor.

Start in obvious corner, traverse to right following bolts (Awkward 3rd clip if you're short). Power up to 4th bolt and finish.

More like wading through compost. Stay away.

Start: Start in 110 degree corner 20 metres right of descent gully.

Up and right through the overhang to the big ledge. You can also go straight up, of course, doing it the easy way. But, who would want to do it the easy way? The third bolt, hidden in a big pocket, is visible from the ledge.

Start: Start at left end of overhang below overhanging block.

Start at the corner and keep left.

Not overly dirty, could be okay. 10m R of the descent gully is this ever-steepening naturally-protected corner with an exciting exit.

Up the well protected blunt arete, steeper than it looks. Please update with the name if you know.

Sit start under small overhang. Do a few moves up the tufa like feature and mantle the highest point on the boulder.

Tamati Kennedy

Start 2m R of 'MD'.

Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

5 bolts to anchor 2m right of FF

Start at the corner and keep right.

Up the sloping ramp on good holds to a set of big Brooyar rings on top.

Thin start , tend right , gain ledge - watch your head!

Short little route in the gully on the descent. On the left facing downhill as you pass the large tree. Straightforward with a slightly interesting top out.

Start with left hand in lower good portion of cracky side pull and right hand on slimper. Move up through some moves then top out at the top.

This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay.

Start: 8m R of the Let's Bail arete.

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings 7-9 are for top anchor.

nice move over the bulge and cruisy.

Not good.

Start: Initialled

An unfinished project to the right of Woosah on slab. Has a black diamond sling threaded through first ringbolt. Bolting is unfinished, as it needs a second bolt and anchor.

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start with high jugs.

Route or boulder problem, its a fine line.

Start: Right end of ledge

Sit start on big flake. Traverse left then move up through pocket and unlikely jug to top out.

Start 2m right of SSYM up the immaculate hand crack pull through the bulge and finish up the slab. Anchor on the left.

Sharp pocketed climbing for masochists.

Start: 5 metres left of great devoid.

Go up SHGTTD and continue in the YCT extension. Adds more climbing to a short route but no change in grade.

The FH's up the massive flakes. Rap chain at top. The rock looks okay, but the big flakes on this are pretty creaky and fragile. Fun, but belayer beware.

Start: Initialled. 1.5m left of Sunny day.

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start matched on rail.

There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.

A variant to a 4 metre route?

Sit start on right side of boulder using side pull and dish. Stare into the abyss. Levitate up the arete and top out using glory jugs.

Oliver Rickford

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

The seam on downhill side of big tree on descent track. Puke.

Shallow orange corner. BRs.

Starts 1m left of Celluloid Hero on the arête. Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to ledge. Finish at Celluloid Hero's anchors.

Stick clip first bolt, ruffle your feathers, spread your wings then ascend this 45 degree overhanging arete.

3 RB to mantle and top out trending Left

Sit start on potato. Head straight up.

You'd have to be bored to climb this one.

Start: Start at back of chimney.

An unknown route to the left of Pink Panzer. A long move to a large undercling guards the second bolt. Mosey upward, avoiding some questionable rock, after which a second crux can be found pulling the bulge above the ledge. Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with PP.

Line of FH's up the sloping gully just L of UR2.

Start 3m left of '2,4,5-T'. Hard moves (crux) to the first bolt, then easy to final roof. Climb through roof direct.

Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to a tree belay. (Safety note: we've been told this tree is now very dodgy - take care!)

Start: Starts 1m L of CH on the arête.

Sit start on crug, shoot right to diagonal rail then mantle directly above crug.

The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

Very little to recommend this climb.

Start: Start in middle of chimney

The small roof to the right of CH. Closed project.

Starting about 30metres left of JG on obvious platform, with a gully/scree on the right. Scramble up to starting platform, but can belay from the ground. This is the right of the three close together climbs on the platform. Climb the jugs for four rings, before a hard topout. The climb completely changes character, as you move up the slab staying right of corner feature, while encountering a few sketchy moves on gritty rock. Anchor is way over the top out of sight.

The line of FH's starting partway up the gully of UR3 and heading R up the face.

The obvious yellow lichenous crack 2m L of T&T. Tree belay well back.

Starts 10 metres right of JG in corner. Start easily on rings trending right. Clip 6th bolt with a long sling and move out left to the arete. Climb arete to anchor at top of the wall.

Thin slab to small ledges- techy moves to anchors

Well-named route setting an unpleasant precedent (slots at the start of this route have been chipped - totally unacceptable). After blank wall, through overhang with some acrobatic moves. Two FHs, two BRs.

The line of huecos in the roof, perpendicular to the lip, starting as far in as possible on an undercling pocket. Work straight out the pockets to where it blanks, then throw up R and move up to the top flake, then (as for TJNNFT) out this to the jug 1m before the lip.

Sit start on jug traverse right to small arete and then head up.

Yep, drive 4.5 hours away from frog to jam your way up some sandstone...