Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
23 |
★★ Agrippa
- with
JB
1
2
| 64m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rapped in after Caligula to where the lower hand crack eases off. Awesome pitch. Offset small wires very handy for seam cryx
|
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Sultan - with JB | 65m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Did it in 3 pitches. Pitch 3 maybe my favourite pitch at buffalo. Such a great climb.
|
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Back Wall Area Back Wall | |||||||
15 | ★ Heamophillia | 110m | ★ Good | ||||
Some amazing climbing at the start of P1 and end of P2, horrendous bush bash in the middle.
Take cams, lots of slings, gardening gloves and a pruning saw. |
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
15 Hard | ★★ Falls Corner | 70m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A little bit of everything in an atmospheric position by the waterfall. The short hand crack on pitch two is a highlight. Save a #3 for the run out slab to the top.
Can be a bit tricky finding the rap line, you drop first to a huge sloping ledge, from the bottom right (facing out) of that ledge you'll peer down through the fronds of a bush and spy an alluring - if dank - corner. Down she goes. |
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Mackeys Lookout | |||||||
13 Easy | ★★ Noblesse Oblige | 420m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice cruisey adventure up a big slab. Currently dry, and fairly easy to find and follow.
Handy to have a few mid size cams and hexes, in addition to runners and extra slings. |
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
28 |
Crack glove
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- with
Lee Cujes
1
23
25
lead by
Aaron Jones, Lee Cujes
A couple of meters of nice slab climbing before degrading into moist mank.
2
28
52
lead by
Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones
The most spectacular, beautiful and intimidating corner soaring up to infinity and beyond. We both sent it first shot on lead, after an hour or so on TR solo the day before. The best beta I've heard for this pitch is "if you find yourself pulling hard, you're not stemming well enough".
3
25
30
This was soaked, we jugged passed it unfortunately.
4
24
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Sketchy stemming for about 5m, then the gear improves and it backs off and becomes more enjoyable to the awkward hanging belay.
5
22
30
lead by
Lee Cujes
A stunning, sustained finger sized corner, with the jambs becoming more pleasing the higher one gets. This one combined with the crux pitch must be 2 of the best single pitches of granite in Oz.
6
22
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Old skool grunge involving most sizes of crack. Thoroughly enjoyable...after the event. Watch the drag.
7
19
15
lead by
Lee Cujes
Sweet airy traversing, with a spot of tree climbing thrown in for good measure (sorry tree). Glad to have converted to the dark side and donned crack gloves for this one.
8
14
20
lead by
Aaron Jones
End rock climbing. Commence canyoning. But how do you get off the ledge?! | 270m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A long term goal fulfilled '*'. It took many years to gather the grit to commit to this one.
Due to weather we only had 2 and a half days on the route. This reduced the pressure somewhat, because the scale of the thing felt insurmountable. Knowing how my brain works, this is probably is the reason it came together.
|
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28 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- with
Aaron Jones
2
28
52
lead by
Lee Cujes
Tons of falls on one TR solo session. Then, unbelievably, led cleanly first try the next day. Both led. MEGA!
3
25
30
Too wet and slimy to attempt. A shame.
4
24
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Long and intricate. In hindsight, better to stop the pitch earlier at natural stance.
6
22
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Grungy, dirty and hard. Fist jamming through an overhung V-slot. Necessary but not enjoyable.
9
10
25
lead by
Lee Cujes
I got lost and had the scariest moment of the entire route, trying to mantle a round boulder above a ledgefall in approach shoes. | 270m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
When Aaron said he wanted to do this route, I didn't respond for over a week. I reeeeally didn't want to climb some coarse granite nightmare. But for that exact reason I figured it was best to say yes and get outside the old comfort zone. In the end, all the training and preparation paid dividends and despite the rain only giving us about half the climbing days we had planned and keeping one of the pitches saturated, we climbed 8 of the 9 pitches (including the crux) in 2 days and had a fantastic time doing it. A very memorable first ever trip to Buffalo. Probably can't top that, might never return.
|
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side Wilkinson's Lookout | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Silk And Satin - with brad and Karl | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So good. It's getting a bit of traffic which is great.
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★ Beg, Borrow Or Steal | 60m | ★ Good | ||||
Great 1st pitch and 2nd is fun too.
|
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
15 | ★★ Falls Corner - with Jordan | 70m | ★ Good | ||||
Amazing position and interesting fun well protected climbing (except for the final slab)
|
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Bannister's Rush | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Gave it a really good brush on the way down. Solo TR lap after that. Amazing pitch
|
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
19 | ★ On Remand | 30m, 3 | Average | ||||
A bit dirty with lichen
|
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah Flake Start | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
didn't have to dog up the wide crack this time using the flake start / wide crack hybrid approach
|
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Wall Of China | |||||||
11 | ★ Mod-Diff | 70m | ★ Good | ||||
could clean up into a very pleasant route
|
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
lay back hard nice and scary to watch lead from Alex
|
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Mackeys Lookout | |||||||
13 |
★★ Noblesse Oblige
1
8
35m
2
8
25m
3
13
40m
sport climbed
4
13
40m
also sport climbed
5
12
45m
6
11
50m
7
10
45m
8
8
40m
9
4
100m
| 420m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
spent more time finding the route than we spent climbing the route soloed harder slabs finding the route than the actual route, great morning route
|
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Body Heat | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Delicious technical slab arete. Only had time for a top-rope, really keen to come back for this, the top was definitely the crux for me, such terrible feet!
|
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20 | ★★★ Home James | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great, delicate and engaging climbing, pretty runout where its easier, the crux moves are very well protected.
|
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16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Placing gear after Rach's onsight, fun!
|
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation - with Conor White | 90m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The slab traverse on the second pitch was very thrilling!!!
|
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah Flake Start | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat, led top pitch this time.
|
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 |
★★★ The Initiation
1
2
3
| 90m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the better multis under 20 ive done, every style of buffalo climbing in one package, damn that flake is good!
|
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Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - with Conor White | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun engaging arete slab! With some spooky feet and positions 👻
|
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Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
15 | ★ Fantasies Of Gail | 35m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
One exciting move and its all over. It sure is an exciting move though!
|
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||||
15 | ★ What Ethics? - with Ti | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Granite cracks yooo
|
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land - with Ti | 15m, 3 | |||||
Yeeee
|
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land - with Ti | 15m, 3 | |||||
Spooked myself up top gah!
|
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Tatra Inn The Tombstones | |||||||
16 | ★ Mako - with James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sharp on the hands. Step left at the end, it is easier and safer this way.
|
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17 | ★★ Spunky - with James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 27m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Might have mixed this up with Spooky.
|
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16 | ★★ Spooky - with James Callander, Anthony Shilton | 27m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route. Worth going back for and now also retro bolted with new lower off anchors.
|
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani The Monolith | |||||||
11 ~12 | ★ Erectomy | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
felt extremely difficult and scary without big gear
|
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Maharajah
1
2
| 42m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
the initial crack took years of my life, a lot of my dignity and even more of my skin - I will be back
|
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
13 | ★ Dick Selector | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
didn't have any gear bigger than a 2 which was an effort
|
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17 | ★★ Profanities | 45m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
tricky start
|
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
not brave enough
|
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Mon 11th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah - with Sam | 42m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did the flake start. Committing to get established on the flake but wasn’t expecting to struggle with the crack. Some flared jams, really have no idea what to expect from crack grades
|
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Mon 11th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Torpedo Rock | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Torpedo Crack - with Sam | ||||||
Awesome line, steep climbing on sinker jams. Couldn't commit to the top-out without more pads
|
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Mon 11th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
20 | ★★ Cows with Guns | 50m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic long slab
|
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★ Bloodnok | 27m | |||||
good lead by chris
|
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral Crack of Anguish area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Total Recall | 30m | |||||
its got everything, hands, fingers, fists and choss, what more could you ask for
|
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation - with Sam | 90m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tricky start followed by extremely flowy easy flake hauling, incredible. Kept forgetting to place gear
|
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
17 | ★ Bloodnok - with jeremy | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
Started directly up the slab from below (as per new guide - very good) rather than traversing in from the R (topo on here). Got thoroughly spanked slipping out of sweaty fist jams in the sun on the crux and landed on the ledge below. Eventually pulled through but the fun wasn't over as swarms of tiny black ants and irritating grass tufts guard the top crack - a classic Buffalo experience.
|
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral Crack of Anguish area | |||||||
16 | ★★ Crack Of Pleasure - with jeremy | 15m | |||||
repeat
|
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Mackeys Lookout | |||||||
13 |
★★ Noblesse Oblige
- with
Emma, AAA crew
| 420m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easy, low-angled slab climbing up mostly clean dykes. Expect runouts up to 25m (ie one bolt per pitch), extremely minimal natural pro. Great exposure and setting! 20 min approach and 3h 10 min leisurely climb.
|
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 Hard | ★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant - with Emma | 70m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome jamming on P1. P2 is the money pitch with a great layback but the gear is quite marginal in the top half, and it eventually becomes run out slab climbing where the seam ends. P3 was good but starting to be a bit polished with traffic.
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Bannister's Rush - with Dan Bodd | 55m | |||||
insane
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Redbacks - with Dan Bodd | 25m | |||||
tricky, glad we didnt pull the rope, tough getting my head round granite
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - with Sam | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Brilliant, sustained and technical climbing. The runout to the fourth bolt is very spicy
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Bannister's Rush | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Probably the best single pitch of climbing I have done at Buffalo, if not anywhere...
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side Wilkinson's Lookout | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Silk And Satin | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good climbing but was feeling a bit ill and came close to fainting after a bit of exertion in the sun - had to sit on the rope for 10 minutes to recover.
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with brad, Locky | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another lap on this sweet line. Team of 3 this time. Great birthday lap and got to watch the hang gliders launch with a beer in hand up top. So good.
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Mackeys Lookout | |||||||
15 |
★★ The Count of Mounting Crystals
1
2
3
4
| 200m, 10 | |||||
By pitch 3 (9 if you go by the guide book) your definition of what run out is, has truly changed. Pitch 1 (7 in the guide) is awesome. Super enjoyable.
|
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15 |
★ Good Luck & Good Management 510m 14
1
2
3
Sets the standard for what run out actually is.
4
5
6
| 450m | |||||
Pitch one to six before finishing count of mounting crystals. Definitely a good intro into the world of run out slabs.
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
14 |
★★ The Pintle
— 4 attempts
1
2
3
| 70m | |||||
The crux at the start of pitch 2 is ridiculous. Not a chance it’s a 14.
|
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
16 |
★★ The Pinch
1
2
2x Merlin 8 minimum needed to protect chimney | 48m, 2 | |||||
The carrot at the start of pitch 2 made me sad. Tried protecting the offwidth/chimney with big bros, they didn’t sit well. I’d try it again with a 2x Merlin size 8s.
|
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17 |
★★★ Maharajah
- with
Emma, Jordon, AAA crew
1
lead by
Jordon
2
lead by
Riley Bradford
| 42m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing position, exposure and thought-provoking climbing. Fell from top of unprotected slab on top out of P2 about 3m onto the ledge.
|
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Icing On The Cake
- with
Dan Bodd
1
2
| 75m, 9 | |||||
Rapped to the first belay cos we ran out of time, got scared and grabbed the draw once, shoulda tried to stay on cos I got the rest.
|
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Mon 4th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||||
15 | ★★ Falls Corner - with Dan Bodd, Matt Wilson | 70m | |||||
real good, nice lead by matt on the second pitch
|
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- with
kelly
4
24
35m
5
22
30m
6
22
35m
7
19
15m
8
14
20m
9
10
25m
| 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Pitches 4-9. One fall on the corner pitch. Very very stoked. Beautiful, fun, interesting climbing
|
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Campsite Area | |||||||
24 | ★★ Parallax - with peter, haily, karina, HB | 10m | |||||
Quick last day play on TR, interesting to watch Malcolm cruise up.
|
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24 | ★★ Parallax | 10m | |||||
Aided up to setup top rope anchor. Easy jams to half way then gets hard with thin hands and finger locks on steep sharp rock. Final climb of the trip so super stoked to get it clean on top rope.
|
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Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries | |||||||
19 | ★★ Hand Vice - with steve, ben | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a decent flash go, got all the gear in but slipped out of the top-out. Too pumped for another real attempt. This makes Witch looks like a very soft 17.
Will be back - 1*#1, 3#*2, a #3 or #4 for the top (think a sling and #1 for the anchor.) |
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Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Wall Of China | |||||||
18 | ★★ Brontosaurus Waltz - with steve, paula, ben | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good climbing, great position.
|
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Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Commander Cody - with Haily, Karina | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had to come back to give this another shot. Easy access to a ripper of a climb. Second favourite of the trip.
|
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Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral Crack of Anguish area | |||||||
16 | ★★ Crack Of Pleasure - with Haily, Karina | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Looks a bit dirty but climbs nicely. Really enjoyed the jamming on this.
|
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Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Viewpoint Area | |||||||
14 | ★ Dhalgren | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Good but needs some traffic/brush. Anchor has a dodgy "bolt" (half inserted expansion bolt with chain wedged under) and one good bolt
|
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau Kokomo Outcrop | |||||||
18 | Le Souef's Up - with Peter Melouney | 15m, 3 | |||||
Nice climbing and now well-protected. Too roasted at the end of a long day to keep it together through the crux.
|
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||||
14 | The Crystal Edge - with Peter Melouney | 140m | |||||
Did some variant of this... scrambled up avoiding half of the first pitch then linked the second half into p2 and up the cracked arete instead of bushy corner as intended - adventurous and not bad climbing.
|
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18 | ★★ Devilled Cream Direct - with Peter Melouney | 3 | |||||
P1 lead OS - pleasant jamming
P2 tricky moves establishing on the slab - couldn't get it clean in the sun.
|
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21 | ★★★ Commander Cody - with Peter Melouney | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just lovely.
|
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau Kokomo Outcrop | |||||||
18 | Le Souef's Up - with Chris | 15m, 3 | |||||
Good climb. Few medium cams in crack then slab past 3 FH and BR to top. Has rap anchors.
|
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Commander Cody - with Chris | 30m | |||||
Beautiful line with great gear throughout
|
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18 Hard | ★★ Devilled Cream Direct - with Chris | 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
P1 - slabby crack with beautiful jams leads to an awesome trench belay! P2 - tried to go up the corner at first bolt and came off. Next time will traverse onto face slab lower. Very fun climb.
|
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Lake Catani Campsite Area | |||||||
18 | ★ Boldfinger - with steve toal, john fells | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice to come back for a smooth lead after seconding this once a year ago.
|
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout | |||||||
22 M1 | ★★★ Hard Rain - with Karina | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing climb. Was fighting hard for P1 and got to the water streak but pumped out. Definitely keen to give it another shot on a future trip.
|
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Edge Of Pleasure - with danny | 80m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
P.1 seemed harder than p.2.
|
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23 | ★★★ The Dreaming - with danny | 90m | |||||
Bolts seemed to be where you need them, however they are still to spaced for me
|
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf - with haily | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thought maybe I would complete Haily's unfinished lead but conditions and fatigue disagreed.
|
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Caligula - with haily | 60m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Imposing line. Whipped off the roof first go but pulled back on after a rest and felt ok - one to come back for.
Rack 2*0.75, 3*1-3, 2*4, couple of finger sized wires/cams for the top. Could have used another 3. |
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||||
20 Easy | ★★★ Home James - with Karina | 30m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very cool and unique rock formations. Easy access, shade in the arvo and fun climbing.
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Dreaming - with Karina | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Picturesque line with amazing slabbing on good quality clean rock. Heady lead with some spaced BR/FH's and a big runout to the anchors. Led both pitches. This was my highlight for the week.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
- with
haily
1
2
3
| 70m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
More run out than I remembered.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral Crack of Anguish area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Total Recall - with haily | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Made it through the bulges on the flash go but couldn't hand on to the top - good fight.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament - with Karina | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautifully clean crack. First lap did a few strenuous laybacks and only just stayed on. Second lap switched to finger locks and thin hand jams with good feet outside the crack and felt more solid.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Cathedral | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Edge Of Pleasure P1
- with
Karina
1
| 80m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Abseiled in for P1. Great slabbing line. Eases after the first few meters.
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19 | ★★★ The Viking - with Karina | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good climb. P1 - bouldery move off the ground, easy traverse and up to ledge. P2 - slightly wide section to start then great laybacking and few jams to top. Clean rock and really enjoyable pitch.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
21 to 23 | ★★ Injustice - with Melissa | 15m, 4 | |||||
Tricky middle section, more pumpy than expected
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20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land - with Melissa | 15m, 3 | |||||
Exciting, runout, celebratory jug finish
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18 | ★★ Spaceman Spiff - with Melissa | 15m, 6 | |||||
Long moves
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16 | ★★ Buffalo Soldier - with Melissa | 13m, 5 | |||||
Nice climb
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22 | ★ Continental Drift - with Melissa | 12m, 3 | |||||
Hard start, exciting finish
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire - with Haily, Karina | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Linked both pitches. P1 is worth doing. P2 is fantastic.
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
20 | ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle - with Melissa | 25m, 3 | |||||
Favorite of the day, tricky finish
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22 | ★ Susan's Slab - with Melissa | 18m | |||||
Blank wall
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15 | The Crack Corner - with Melissa | 25m | |||||
Fun laybacking
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Melissa | 25m | |||||
Faceclimbed it because I suck at crackw
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Melissa | 18m, 3 | |||||
Tricky establishing, then easy
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16 | ★ Pickled Turnip - with Melissa | 25m | |||||
Horrendous
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
- with
Dave J
1
2
3
| 70m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First pitch of Pintle, second LHV then rapped back down for last pitch of Pintle. Second pitch is something special.
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Dave J
1
17
50
2
16
40
3
16
40
4
17
15
Broke P3 into two right after step over when DJ ran out gear, leaving me with his finger crack crux (crux of the whole climb imo)...
5
17
40
... and giving Davey my ow pitch jiji. Ow reputation did not live up to its reality, just a bit of grunt work- mind you i didn't lead it.
6
10
45
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It was one of those days, not like other ones- days that hurry all too fast along, this day holds firm, steeped in the memories and emotion on Angels. Like a deep spring, it is an adventure to nourish a climber's soul, to draw from for many seasons and sessions to come. One of the most satisfying days I've had in years.
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