Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau Kokomo Outcrop | |||||||
18 | Le Souef's Up - with Chris | 15m, 3 | |||||
Good climb. Few medium cams in crack then slab past 3 FH and BR to top. Has rap anchors.
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
20 | ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle - with Melissa | 25m, 3 | |||||
Favorite of the day, tricky finish
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22 | ★ Susan's Slab - with Melissa | 18m | |||||
Blank wall
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15 | The Crack Corner - with Melissa | 25m | |||||
Fun laybacking
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Melissa | 25m | |||||
Faceclimbed it because I suck at crackw
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Melissa | 18m, 3 | |||||
Tricky establishing, then easy
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16 | ★ Pickled Turnip - with Melissa | 25m | |||||
Horrendous
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Fri 2nd Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face of the Sentinel | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such an absorbing climb. A time machine climb that feels much longer than its meters. New anchors on top to lower off.
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Fri 2nd Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging | 23m | |||||
Planned on an end of day cruise, ended up being a little spicy. Save a #1 or # 2 totem or equiv for top of crack before stepping to face. Great climb with a good variety of techniques.
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Tue 9th Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
19 | Unnamed 1 - with Ben North, Ian Breese | 25m | Average | ||||
Thrutchy start to the arete using the off-width. It might be better as a bridging exercise to the second bolt, but I couldn't get out there to do it.
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17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging - with Ben North, Ian Breese | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The first time I led this there was no bolt on the top headwall and it was a real "Buffalo" experience. Now much easier on the head with the added bolt.
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14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) - with Ben North, Ian Breese | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice. It is a long long time since I first did this route and it appears to have gotten better.
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall - with Ben North, Ian Breese | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
A good lead by Ben
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Thu 16th Feb 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) - with Karina | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun end of day climb
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16 Hard | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Karina | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice - some steep moves toward the top.
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Fri 30th Dec 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Balked at the run out slab top section and rested on the gear. Great varied climb, exciting all the way.
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Thu 1st Dec 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face of the Sentinel - with Ryan Siacci, Nut Busting Unicorn | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Super keen to get back on this one!!
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Wed 12th Jan 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
22 | ★ Susan's Slab - with Ben North, Bridgette Hillebrand | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
The moves above the top bolt are a bit exciting
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20 | ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle - with Ben North, Maree Moloney, Viv Ridell, Bridgette Hillebrand, Aaron Murray | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
As good as always. New chains at top are a welcome change.
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
21 20 | ★★ The Northwest Face of the Sentinel - with Dean Bailey | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Bloody tough. Kept coming off trying to pull onto the climb so will give it the red point. Said I'd give it one last attempt as we watched dark clouds and thunder approach and managed to stick it. Commited then and had to compose myself as I kept fighting to the top while it began to slowly rain, then pelt down just near the top. Full lightning strikes around as I summited so I turfed all my gear straight down the rope. Used Dean as a body anchor on the other side to rapidly clean the route as the sky opened up hail the size of cool mints. Can't get much more epic than that!
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Mon 22nd Nov 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with James Callandar | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bomber gear. Climax at the end. Save some for the last moves.
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall - with James Callander | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Clean nice fun.
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Mon 22nd Nov 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Keep | |||||||
14 | Drawbridge | 15m | Average | ||||
Trees down everywhere. Bushbash in.
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Mon 1st Nov 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Harrie Van de Linde | 18m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Well worth the 2 stars. Climbed on pre-placed gear which probably made getting into the crack easier
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Harrie Van de Linde | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Dylan Glavas | 18m, 3 | |||||
You can’t win them all unfortunately, and the sharp granite crimps beat me today.
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Dylan Glavas | 25m | |||||
Done before, 2 years ago
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Mon 24th May 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) - with Scott | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Over pretty quickly but fun.
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20 | ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle - with Scott | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Ballsy lead - thin start with hard gear placements and then constant grade until the end.
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Scott | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Bit of a kick at the end. Otherwise constant grade. Good clean crack climbing.
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Scott | 18m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky first bolt clip unless you are tall! Get your head sorted before you make the moves past the 3rd bolt.
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Tue 8th Dec 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall - with Alex argentov | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
A little snowy
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Sat 7th Mar 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face of the Sentinel - with Nik Lawry, Ian Breese | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
very nice once you work out some protection for the start
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Sat 23rd Nov 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face of the Sentinel - with Rich | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thin crimpy slab seam that eats small nuts.
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Sat 23rd Nov 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Rich | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Does what it says on the tin. Great jamming!
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Tue 23rd Apr 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
guess the way to get better at climbing cracks us to get on the sharp end
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Bonnie | 25m | |||||
Quite nice climbing
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Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall - with David Carlin | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Stemmable the whole way up which is fun. It was quite short though, but I found it fun for a 13. True to that grade.
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12 | Phoenix - with David Carlin | 12m | Average | ||||
The boulder problem start seems to be well above the grade (unless you are tall), and if you can't crack climb/jam it's also much harder than most people would expect from a grade 12! still we keep talking about it. My hands are torn up from fist jams and side pulling in the sharp granite.
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Mon 25th Feb 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
some proper jamming needed for a couple moves at the top for the steep section. would be way better with some rap rings. the ones over on surfer girl are a bit hectic to get to
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Mostly positive holds
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Felt easier than the corner due to nice size jambs
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15 | The Crack Corner | 25m | Average | ||||
Felt quite thrutch, especially the exit
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22 | ★ Susan's Slab | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Would feel really sketchy to me on lead, getting used to the amazing friction again
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20 | ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Not bad, airy exit
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Sun 24th Feb 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Markus | 18m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Slipped getting to the first bolt and fell onto my butt on the ledge and then down between some boulders (ie gear available but quite an awkward/ painful fall if you come off here). The rest was well protected and fun (on top rope this time!)
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Tue 20th Mar 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall - with mooj | 12m | |||||
Hung on the rope to get the last bit of gear out of the crack.
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall - with Ancala | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
This thing felt almost as hard as the 16!
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with Ancala | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My jamming skills need some work!
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Ancala | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Had to climb Corner and Crack just so I could pre clip the first bolt. Stuffed up the crux sequence as I'm still remembering how to climb granite.
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Fri 26th Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging - with Hilary | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
The top certainly kept me on my toes!
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Fri 26th Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face of the Sentinel - with Hilary | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Such a sick route! A bit longer and it would be worth 3 stars.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2017 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) - with megan charles, megan, charles | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
great fun, used a few trad placements to back up the old rusty bolts.
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack - with charles, megan | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
freakin aweomse climb!
great jamming all the way up, thin hands to fist size, or do it like megan and don't jam any of it...
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Sun 28th Feb 2016 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
21 | ★★ Silver Girl - with Brendan Fraser | 18m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
New favourite!
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Fri 1st Jan 2016 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
15 | The Crack Corner - with Micky Williams | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Much better than described in the guide. Amusing to watch should the leader choose to practice their jamming. Exposed and somewhat tricky access to rap station, can use small cam to protect few moves out from top of climb to rings.
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12 | Phoenix - with Micky Williams | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Chossy start through shrubbery leads to a few decent but desperate moves up the flaring crack. Exciting last few moves past where crack finishes, belly flop onto a sandy ledge with relief, watching out for the jumping jacks that share the ledge.
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall - with Micky Williams | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A discrete bolt on the slab above and a rap station on the top ledge (above the one with a small tree) would add another 2-3 metres of enjoyable slab moves.
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Fri 2nd Oct 2015 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
20 | ★★ Butterflies Are Doodle - with Steven Martin | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sustained slabbing
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Sat 3rd Jan 2015 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face Of The Sentinel | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good gear, just a tough start. Make sure you have a plan on how to get back down!
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Sat 3rd Jan 2015 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
23 | ★★ Jocey And The Pussy Cats | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thin. Great moves up an intimidating arete.
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Sat 8th Feb 2014 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) - with Signe | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
It was a mission to get there!
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Tue 4th Feb 2014 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun climb, good opportunity to practice some hand and fist jams. Pumpy finish, needed to rest near the top.
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Tue 4th Feb 2014 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Northwest Face Of The Sentinel | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome route, tricky but far from impossible. Good gear placements all the way up.
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Sat 1st Feb 2014 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
First trad lead ever, fun easy climb.
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Wed 18th Dec 2013 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall - with Riley Day | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great fun, though its over quickly.
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Mon 18th Feb 2013 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | |||||
This was pretty much the only climb we found in the whole area. Should've gone with a local. Still great fun though.
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Sun 11th Nov 2012 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great features, good climbing all the way
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl | 18m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic climb, balancy start, but solid all the way after that. OS Lead on preplaced gear.
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Tue 21st Feb 2012 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Noice!
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17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
A good lead by David .. none of us new what he was letting himself in for - Yoiks!
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl | 18m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A really nice line with clean solid rock - easy to top rope while you are up there.
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great line and nice rock.
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Sat 17th Dec 2011 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | |||||
Quite nice
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | |||||
Crack climbing at its best.
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Thu 27th Jan 2011 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
15 | The Crack Corner | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
I can see why people don't particularly like this route, but I quite enjoyed it. A supply of bigger gear might help the appreciation. I took doubles of camalots #1 - #3 and single #4 - #6 and placed the lot.
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Thu 27th Jan 2011 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Keep | |||||||
13 | Frigging In The Rigging | 20m | Average | ||||
I found this surprisingly difficult for a 13, thought I might've been tired. The upper crack has some nice moves and quite a lot of grass...
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14 | Drawbridge | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Really scary lead with the best gear for a good deal of the route being the burnt, dead tree that used to hang over the route.
Once you get to the upper crack, the gear is good and the climbing is quite nice. |
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Wed 26th Jan 2011 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
That domey top-out can get the pulse racing if you get yourself into an awkward position
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
First outing on Buffalo crack - coarse!
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14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Straight line up three BR, using arete. Dome top out, hold on! Chains to lower off. hard rock hopping to get to this climb.
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
up well protected crack, a lower off would speed things up here, however walk over the back to find your way down
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Tue 19th Oct 2010 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
Spoilers
Make sure you have good pro in the top of the corner/crack before you step left on to the face. As the comments of others indicate, the bolt is placed high. I was quite scared. |
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Wed 31st Dec 2008 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
22 | ★ Susan's Slab | 18m | |||||
Sustained slab climbing. Our leader took a spill from the top holds.
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17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
Longer than you think and sustained but pleasant climbing in good company
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14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice for old men like me
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19 | Unnamed 1 | 25m | Average | ||||
Hard for old men like me. Harder then it looks
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Mon 10th Mar 2008 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Keep | |||||||
17 | Hopes Deshed - with Geoff Gledhill | 30m | |||||
Pretty cool to 2nd one of the first ascensionists on a repeat of one of his old routes! Embarrassing at the same time because I had a nightmare on it (not having ever really done much jamming before). FA Chris Baxter and Geoff Gledhill 27/01/1991
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Sat 23rd Feb 2008 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
wires & hexes only
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16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
with andy - cold & windy
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Mon 28th Jan 2008 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
access to the base of the climb is a bitch, not helped by the guide. placed a small cam around the arete, above the 3rd bolt to keep things sane. ignore descent description in guide as there are rap chains at the top.
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
with eva, nice climb would be better if longer, rapped off tree to descend
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2008 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
16 | ★★ Corner And Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd climb here, nice
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
1st climb at the buff!
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17 | ★ The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
character building!!
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14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
shazz lead, awesome
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Wed 26th Dec 2007 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||||
19 | Unnamed 1 | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Scary finish way above the bolt with ugly fall potential.
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13 | ★ Tears Begin To Fall | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Get's a lot of raves but not worth it.
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21 | ★★ Silver Girl | 18m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice thin bits down low on the bolts to easy crack finish
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14 | ★ Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
really enjoyed this route. Guide book rave is a load of balls.
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