Bush bash after rapping in was rough, take shoes or sandals we were glad we did. We went too far climbers right and backtracked to the route. Look for a detached pinnacle with a saddle between it and the cliff and the QR is above that. Someone placed a nice bit of quartz in a tree at the base.
Double 60m ropes to rap in, extend from hangers or test pull from below before pulling 1st rap down. It pulled ok for us with a bit of work. 2nd station (3rd set of anchors including clifftop hangers) are down climbers left from 2nd anchors. On a ledge at the top of a prominent buttress 40m down. Then to ground from there.
Added a pic from the vcc update showing variants. I led pitch 1 on a single 60m and took the 2nd variant in the update labeled with ?. It looked fun and less vegetated than the other options. Cool rising crackline traverse into a flared corner (gear available) then belay from solid tree above. Extended as best as I could but had rope drag. Great option if climbing on double ropes. Maybe a tad harder than the rest of the climb for the commiting traverse possibly 16 but I don't know.
This made pitch 1 55m, pitch 2 30m. The corner pitch (3) was a bit mossy and has a rooflet not a roof in it. Also some loose blocks on right as you exit the corner. I belayed from the base of the overlap near the hand/first crack for the start of pitch 4.
Overall a great adventure and the climbing had some cool moments. Pitch 4 was great and cool features. 5 was a non event.
Special spot worth the mission for sure, I've looked at this wall for ages and stoked to get on it.
Variant is probably the best way to go. Don't know what I was thinking on the FA by going over left and bolting. Probably trying to minimise the distance of scrambling on the ramp. Don't understand the concern about vegetation on the first pitch - it was minimal The "Christmas" on the third pitch has gone.
- with
jordan oniel
Double 60m ropes to rap in, extend from hangers or test pull from below before pulling 1st rap down. It pulled ok for us with a bit of work. 2nd station (3rd set of anchors including clifftop hangers) are down climbers left from 2nd anchors. On a ledge at the top of a prominent buttress 40m down. Then to ground from there.
Added a pic from the vcc update showing variants. I led pitch 1 on a single 60m and took the 2nd variant in the update labeled with ?. It looked fun and less vegetated than the other options. Cool rising crackline traverse into a flared corner (gear available) then belay from solid tree above. Extended as best as I could but had rope drag. Great option if climbing on double ropes. Maybe a tad harder than the rest of the climb for the commiting traverse possibly 16 but I don't know.
This made pitch 1 55m, pitch 2 30m. The corner pitch (3) was a bit mossy and has a rooflet not a roof in it. Also some loose blocks on right as you exit the corner. I belayed from the base of the overlap near the hand/first crack for the start of pitch 4. Overall a great adventure and the climbing had some cool moments. Pitch 4 was great and cool features. 5 was a non event.
Special spot worth the mission for sure, I've looked at this wall for ages and stoked to get on it.