Routes as trad in Lake Catani

From Site 16, walk about 30m up the hill to the jumble of scrappy boulders and skirt to the left. A short and wickedly left-curving offwidth, capped by a small roof, presents itself.

Set a top-rope off of bomber boulder anchors on top, lead it (nothing bigger than #4 camalots required), or suck it up and boulder it out...

Excellent after-dinner or after-breakfast entertainment (for spectators)

From the slopey ledge from where Dhalgren starts, and about 2 or 3 metres right of the start of that climb, clip a bolt runner just reachable from the ledge. Gain the dyke just left of the bolt, then follow it rightward, past another bolt, then up right to clip a third. Stay low moving right into the thin seam of Flawed Vision (a few small RPs or equivalent wires advisable). Follow FV to its end (or up, trending a little left past the top bolt of Dhalgren if you prefer).

Not bad. Starts perhaps 10-15m right of Dhalgren where a boulder leans against the main wall, immediately below a thin seam/crack. Take a handfull of RPs or similar small wires to protect the seam. Bridge off the boulder to gain the seam, then climb this (not as hard as it looks from below) and continue up the left side of the summit roof/flake.

The route is approximately where the 'e' in choke is on the topo in the 2006 guide.

Where the track reaches the second tree with right pointing arrows on it, head to the left and downhill. There are several gaps between the boulders (cairn) and a short step down through these leads to an open area. On your right (facing out) is a left leaning corner crack.

Tree belay. Descend by rapping off tree.

up the gully for a few meters, then pull onto the slab following the crack. Gear available all the way.

lower off at 25m, probably grade 9 to here.

Follow R hand seam, then slab to ledge and anchor, with just enough gear.

Rap anchor at end of the first slab (grade 8-10).

Clip 1st BR of Fractured Fairytales, then head straight up past another BR through a bouldery crux. Take some gear for the top. A good top-rope anchor can be set using wires under the mini-roof.

Step across the gap (preferably clipping a BR first), then traverse left. Clip another BR before climbing around the nose and then up.

L-leaning crack at the R hand side of the block. when the crack finishes, either slab boldly to chains, or step R into groove to chains. Great climbing

link up. Startup Glace, then traverse R past 3 bolts to UtBHH, finish up this.

The offwidth roof crack visible from the walking track. Crux is at the lip to easier wide crack above.

Crack on the other side of the track from 'Plaything'.

An excellent overhanging hand crack. Was given 17 by the FA but most agree it's a couple of grades harder.

This route can be hard to locate because it faces out into the valley. The best option is to locate Homer's Butt Crack; Hand vice is the same split but in the other side of the boulder. From Homer's Butt Crack, walk back down the track to find find a gap through the boulders that you can walk through. A short scramble takes you to the route.

up crack on LH side of the block, then slab up blunt arete passing 2? carrots to top.