Routes in Mackeys Lookout for selected grade

(1) 20m From where the gully steepens, continue up to belay beside the slab. (2) 40m Climb the slab passing 3 BRs, keeping as far to the L as prudent. Belay above the overlap. (3) 40m The faint groove and beyond.

Start: Starts in the gully on the R side of the 'Stiletto' Slab.

When the wombat comes a crossing, look the other way.

Ten pitches of dangerous run-out slab following the waterfall of Stiletto Slab to the top. Sometimes slab, sometime mountaineering (may even be well iced in winter?), and always, always lichen growing on polished granite.

Approach as for Noblesse Oblige and continue past Good Luck and Good Management. Keep walking left (if facing the cliff) along the slabs to the high point of one set of trees. Down to the bottom of this slab/ gully. Continue to next high point then down to the bottom of the next gully. This is where the climb of horror begins.

1. 55m - From base of slabs up a right until you reach mossy choss on your right. Keeping around 4m to the left of this until you can belay from bucket seat like scoop in wall off one decent cam and two marginal micro-nuts.

2. 50m - Up a left from scoop keeping to the right of small arete in slab. Once clear of arete move diagonally up a left to place gear in wet crack that the waterfall runs through in summer. Cross "waterfall" crack and belay from small scoop ledge of 3 micro-cams.

3. 55m - Head for large bolder directly above on the right side of the break in the trees. The bolder has a visible crack around its base. Set up belay on right side of bolder about 2-3 meters after you first reach it. Left of the boulder is thick lichen which has the consistency of seaweed in rain.

4. 50m - Up past larger boulder avoiding loose rock missiles which would most likely hit your belayer. Keep moving as directly up as possible, but going left when lichen halts your progress. Belay of decent gear from small sloped ledge with a bush on the right and a thick band of trees directly above.

5. 60m - Up and left through heading towards large scoop in rock, that is high on the left and low on the right. Belay from left hand side of scoop.

6. 50m - Move right 2m from belay placing small micro-cam to prevent fall factor 2. Up and left leaving scoop onto main slab heading towards white polished section of wall. Belay from ledge where there may be a small "foot-bath" to refresh your feet.

7. 50m - Head towards steep water washed white granite wall up and slightly left. Belay where possible near bush directly below the "white wall."

8. 60m - Easy scrambling to the base of steep wall. Skirt right heading towards blocky steep gully. Belay halfway up gully.

9. 60m - Up through gully keeping to the right of main wall (you are now on Stiletto Slab). Once rope runs out head into scrub on right and belay off small trees.

10. 50m - Up through dangerous choss (mossy and loose) slinging largest vegetation possible. Aim for large boulder slightly overhanging wall. Belay from top of this avoiding the "shark fin" boulder which is begging for a one way trip to the ground.

From the boulder you can bash through seriously thick bush directly behind for 10- 15 meters and up onto another slab. Walk up a few more meters until you reach "The Big Walk." Make a right turn down the track to head towards Mackey's lookout, while you question your sanity and why on earth you listened to a wombat that morning.

Another long and somewhat engaging slab outing on this long sweep of stone.

Pitch 1 - start as for 'The Wombat Of Misdirection' but rather than crossing the waterfall at its second pitch (not recommended if the falls are flowing heavily) continue to ramble upwards staying mostly on the cleaner slabs keeping right of the falls all the way to the top of the cliff. Many cruxes including a variety of steep slabbing, slippery moss gardens, vertical jungle scrambling, bouldering, avoiding waterfalls and general adventure shenanigans. Optional belays abound allowing any would be repeat ascentionists to split this single pitch 500+ metre route into as many pitches as you like, but fair warning - most of the possible 'pitches' would be unprotectable and belays would likely be rubbish anyway (unless you belay at various trees and bushes along the way). First Ascent was soloed and while not recommended, may not be much more dangerous than attempting to pitch it out. Repeat at your own risk.

Long multi-pitch slab left of Noblesse Oblige and right of Stiletto Slab. No bolts.

Best long easy slab at Buffalo, Easy slab climbing up a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hexes or tricams are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground.

Stash a bicycle near the top beforehand, for an easy way back down to retrieve the car afterwards.

Start: Drive up about 1 km from 'Eurobin Falls' and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here, tape on tree to mark start a bit further right. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes, there are some small cairns and yellow tapes. You solo an easy slab, then there is a tree with double yellow tapes on it, go right here to the start The climb takes about 1 or 2 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack.

Basically 4 or 5 pitches up a black streak up a buttress. Then an easy traverse 20m right to a black streak up the next buttress for 3 pitches, then 2 easy finishing walk/scramble pitches.

1. 35m (8) Head up right to a short crack with a flake at the top at 10m, then leftwards past another flake then a BR, to belay in a big scoop off a single bolt and gear.

2. 25m (8) Climb up past flakes to 2 BB in a deep bushy scoop.

3. 40m (13) Go right up a dyke to a poor sling runner, up to BR, and then past another sling to a double bolt belay in a scoop.

4. 40m (13) Up past BR to a dyke at 30m, walk R 6m to a sling and bolt belay.

5. 45m (12) Walk back left 6m to black streak and up past BR, to 2 bolt belay..

6. 50m (11) Traverse diagonally right past a crack, a thread-able flake and more cracks to a bush in the black streak on the next buttress to the right. Up black streak to double bolt belay.

7. 45m (10) Up streak past gear in scoops and one BR to bolt belay.

8. 40m (8) Head up slightly rightwards (~ 12.30 o'clock direction) past 3 bolts, and up white slab to double bolt belay on ledge.

9. 100m (4) Continue scrambling in the 1 o'clock direction up the dirty slabby buttress to the "Great Walk" track.