Ascents of Ozymandias (free version)

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Showing all 16 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality	Climber
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	Crack glove ★★★ Ozymandias (free version) - with Lee Cujes 1 23 25 Trad lead by Aaron Jones, Lee Cujes A couple of meters of nice slab climbing before degrading into moist mank. 2 28 52 Trad lead by Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones The most spectacular, beautiful and intimidating corner soaring up to infinity and beyond. We both sent it first shot on lead, after an hour or so on TR solo the day before. The best beta I've heard for this pitch is "if you find yourself pulling hard, you're not stemming well enough". 3 25 30 Aid This was soaked, we jugged passed it unfortunately. 4 24 35 Trad lead by Aaron Jones Sketchy stemming for about 5m, then the gear improves and it backs off and becomes more enjoyable to the awkward hanging belay. 5 22 30 Second lead by Lee Cujes A stunning, sustained finger sized corner, with the jambs becoming more pleasing the higher one gets. This one combined with the crux pitch must be 2 of the best single pitches of granite in Oz. 6 22 35 Trad lead by Aaron Jones Old skool grunge involving most sizes of crack. Thoroughly enjoyable...after the event. Watch the drag. 7 19 15 Second lead by Lee Cujes Sweet airy traversing, with a spot of tree climbing thrown in for good measure (sorry tree). Glad to have converted to the dark side and donned crack gloves for this one. 8 14 20 Trad lead by Aaron Jones End rock climbing. Commence canyoning. But how do you get off the ledge?! 9 10 25 Second lead by Lee Cujes Joyous canyoning.	Trad 270m	★★★ Mega Classic	Aaron Jones
A long term goal fulfilled '*'. It took many years to gather the grit to commit to this one. Due to weather we only had 2 and a half days on the route. This reduced the pressure somewhat, because the scale of the thing felt insurmountable. Knowing how my brain works, this is probably is the reason it came together. Unfortunately pitch 3 was soaking wet and unclimbable, boo.
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) - with Aaron Jones 1 23 25 Trad lead by Lee Cujes Wet, yuck. Both led. 2 28 52 Trad lead by Lee Cujes Tons of falls on one TR solo session. Then, unbelievably, led cleanly first try the next day. Both led. MEGA! 3 25 30 Aid Too wet and slimy to attempt. A shame. 4 24 35 Second lead by Aaron Jones Long and intricate. In hindsight, better to stop the pitch earlier at natural stance. 5 22 30 Trad lead by Lee Cujes All class. Fingerlock laybacks forever. 6 22 35 Second lead by Aaron Jones Grungy, dirty and hard. Fist jamming through an overhung V-slot. Necessary but not enjoyable. 7 19 15 Trad lead by Lee Cujes Diagonal jamming with no feet. A short pitch but I still ran out of gear. 8 14 20 Second lead by Aaron Jones Definitely avoiding the chimney at all costs. 9 10 25 Trad lead by Lee Cujes I got lost and had the scariest moment of the entire route, trying to mantle a round boulder above a ledgefall in approach shoes.	Trad 270m	★★★ Mega Classic	Lee Cujes
When Aaron said he wanted to do this route, I didn't respond for over a week. I reeeeally didn't want to climb some coarse granite nightmare. But for that exact reason I figured it was best to say yes and get outside the old comfort zone. In the end, all the training and preparation paid dividends and despite the rain only giving us about half the climbing days we had planned and keeping one of the pitches saturated, we climbed 8 of the 9 pitches (including the crux) in 2 days and had a fantastic time doing it. A very memorable first ever trip to Buffalo. Probably can't top that, might never return.
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	24	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) - with kelly 4 24 35m Second 5 22 30m Trad 6 22 35m Trad 7 19 15m Second 8 14 20m Trad 9 10 25m Trad	Trad 160m	★★★ Mega Classic	Sam Strong
Pitches 4-9. One fall on the corner pitch. Very very stoked. Beautiful, fun, interesting climbing
Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) - with danny	Trad 270m	★★★ Classic	jack jane
5 sessions on the crux solo Then climbed clean from the ground with 4 pre placed pieces at the crux. This was an exceptional day out. Every pitch is a 2 plus star pitch in its own right.
Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	25	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) - with Dave Cook 3 25 30 Top rope Too wet and scared 4 24 35 Second Psyched to get this one while removing the wires with a nut tool - calf pump was real! 5 22 30 Second 2 sits, what a wild pitch amazing moves. So cold belaying as the corner went into the shade 6 22 35 Second Pulled on 2 carrots, mossy, wet and cold tips! 7 19 15 Trad Needed more #2’s didn’t commit to any run outs 8 14 20 Trad Wet and mossy, stood on the piton - on route to the trolls toll to the boy soul 9 10 25 Second Rope got stuck so self belayed! Lost a gate, a small price to pay the toll troll to enter the hole!! Sunshine was welcomed	Trad 190m		Ryan Macpherson
Abseiled into big grassy! 1 shivering night on the ledge, freed 90% despite dogging every pitch other then the 24 and the troll toll hole to sunshine glory. Dave really was the MVP - the power of friendship got this one done! A little above my pay grade but stoked to aim to free this rig with little to no climbing of late
Fri 2nd Dec 2022 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) P2 - with pat 2 28 30m Trad lead by Michael Lehmann	Trad 30m	★★★ Mega Classic	Michael Lehmann
Today was a very special day, I managed to free the lower crux pitch to the aid belay. I heard a pop in one of my fingers cranking on a shallow pin scar and may have ruptured a pulley, still, incredibly stoked to get the send!! Will have to try to link it into the rest of the pitches from the ground next time!
Wed 30th Nov 2022 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	24	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) - with pat 4 24 30 Trad lead by Michael Lehmann 5 22 30 Trad lead by Michael Lehmann	Trad 60m	★★★ Mega Classic	Michael Lehmann
Rapped in and led from grassy to below the roof, both great pitches. Preplaced gear for the 24, quite a nasty fall off the deck. The 22 was all time! Potentially the best 22 pitch I've done ever, a stellar day out.
Thu 17th Mar 2022 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	25	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) - with Tom, Tristan, Duncan Brown, Emily 1 21 25m lead by Duncan Brown 3 25 30m	Trad 55m	★★★ Mega Classic	Will Vidler
Pretty rad to be down playing on this wall. Not sure how many opportunities i’ll have to try the route whilst working on this film about Duncan with Tristan and Tom for TNF but was cool to have a play as Duncan rested. Seconded pitch one first go which was pretty chill and then did three back to back laps on the 25 pitch. I went up it first to figure it out and fell off a few times, came down to the stance just above the balancy start and climbed from there to the top but figured I should do it properly so lowered back down to the belay and did it pulling the rope through the grigri the whole time which was a bit brutal. Hopefully it feels easier on lead.
Wed 5th Jan 2022 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) - with anthony shilton 1 28 267m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9	Trad 270m		Chris Snell
Abseiled to Big Grassy from lookout. Fixed the ab rope to belay at the end of pitch 6 (before traverse left) and at nice belay on arête after the corner on pitch 5 on the way down.
Wed 29th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	25	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) 1 25m 2 30m 3 25 4 5 6 7 8 9	Trad 55m	★★★ Mega Classic	Michael Lehmann
Second lead attempt, I pre-placed gear, probably my whole rack. Wanted to try free on lead from the ground to big grassy with an aid crew. Rock was pretty out of condition in the sun. Still managed a high point, passed the crux, panicked and grabbed the draw instead of the send. Been choking on some of the runouts. Finished at the aid belay, flashed from there to the next belay, not sure of a grade for the short bit, maybe 25? Struggled up the next pitch from there to big grassy. Was absolutely cooked after 4 pitches!
Tue 28th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) 1 22 25m 2 28 30m 3 15m 4 30m 5 6 7 8 9	Trad 100m	★★★ Mega Classic	Michael Lehmann
First lead attempt with brad. Took at the piton then finished at aid belay.
Fri 24th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) 2 28 267m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9	Trad 270m	★★★ Mega Classic	Michael Lehmann
Another solo session, moves felt unfamiliar first go. Got to the last part of the top crux clean second go. Top needs more dialing. Skin was a bit raw, called it after 2 burns.
Sat 19th Jun 2021 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) 1 28 267m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9	Trad 270m	★★★ Mega Classic	Michael Lehmann
Couple more laps to get comfy with the moves and sequence, still feels like it will be a goey pink point. Definitely lacking the leg endurance, the ozy replicator on the home board has been doing wonders, sticking the crux Dyno consistently now. Want to have 1 more good sesh before tieing in.
Sat 22nd May 2021 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version) 1 28 267m 2 30m 3 4 5 6 7 8 9	Trad 300m	★★★ Mega Classic	Michael Lehmann
Actually got all the moves! Wasn't sure if the movement would feel remotely possible. Not too bad lower down, flashed the free moves to about 15m, probably hard techy 23 to a good rest. Then 8m of maybe grade 26 sequencey stemming to a rest. The crux is 7m of desperately thin laybacking with poor feet. It feels goey and low percentage. Gear uses the good hand holds unfortunately, suppose that comes with the territory, definitely run out. The climbing is a lot less pumpy than I thought it would be, need strong legs for the rests though! Would be an absolutely phenomenal lead. I think there'll be a lot of large whips.
Fri 23rd Apr 2021 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version)	Trad 270m		Michael Lehmann
Opening the account, wet conditions in cloud after rain. Had a burn to figure out rope logistics. 200m rope almost touches the bottom!
Sat 6th Feb 2021 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
	28	★★★ Ozymandias (free version)	Trad 270m		Michael Lehmann
A goal for this year.

Showing all 16 ascents.

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Ascents of Ozymandias (free version)

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