Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with brad, Locky | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another lap on this sweet line. Team of 3 this time. Great birthday lap and got to watch the hang gliders launch with a beer in hand up top. So good.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
kelly
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | |||||
Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Dave J
1
17
50
2
16
40
3
16
40
4
17
15
Broke P3 into two right after step over when DJ ran out gear, leaving me with his finger crack crux (crux of the whole climb imo)...
5
17
40
... and giving Davey my ow pitch jiji. Ow reputation did not live up to its reality, just a bit of grunt work- mind you i didn't lead it.
6
10
45
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It was one of those days, not like other ones- days that hurry all too fast along, this day holds firm, steeped in the memories and emotion on Angels. Like a deep spring, it is an adventure to nourish a climber's soul, to draw from for many seasons and sessions to come. One of the most satisfying days I've had in years.
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Thu 8th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Classic. All the best parts of buffalo on one climb
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Wed 7th Feb 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with JB | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another great day on granite.
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with cam | 230m | |||||
Good to come back 5 years after I got dragged up it and drag cam up it instead, hopefully he'll come back sometime too.
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Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
jai
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
1
17
50
2
16
40
3
17
50
4
17
45
5
10
45
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome day out. 6 hours car to car with a 30min detour of misdirection on the top out. I'd leave the #5 at home next time and have triple #2, #3, #4's. Had wires and micros but didn't need them.
Also on the 70m rope running the 1st pitch to the start of the leftward slab traverse would mean two pitches to the top of the off width. That's the plan next time. |
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 ~19 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolute quality crack climbing but sure is a massive sandbag for the grade. French freed the hard stuff and did the easy stuff. My favourite parts were the chimney sections. Climbing in full sun with too little water not recommended. Dry tears were cried. The exit was cool, used the drawing that’s posted on the crag which helped a lot. Most painful feet I’ve had on a route. Even the last pitch has proper crack climbing moves.
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Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Dmitry Linkov | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Oops I did it again, still on second but no pulling on gear this time and no feet stuck badly anymore.
Still hard and still the best multi at this grade in Australia.
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Ouch…
|
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Climbing: 1.30pm start to 7.30pm finish. Could've took less in backpack.
|
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Luke C
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a unique experience! Lots of fun and pain to be taken here in what is possibly a once in a life time thing to do.
The first two pitches were pure joy of climbing and jamming, at the end of the third the pain was starting to build up and the battle had on pitch 4th and it's offwidth made me almost faint when I got to the top with my TC pro torn apart with a whole in the sole. The exit makes and adventure in itself too. To exit: climb/downclimb the boulder on the left from the end of the last pitch. The on the next ledge climb the slabby boulder on your right. Next use the flake to get on top of the next boulder. After that go deep on the right through the tunnel and keep going upward. Thanks to out gardian angel Greg Blachon for watching from the top when and help us figure out the exit. |
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Sam Pearson, ash
3
17
50m
lead by
ash
4
17
45m
lead by
ash
| 230m | |||||
Class route
100% did a FA on the final pitch needed to have a chainsaw to send haha
All in all went pretty smooth till the last pitch easy best 17 I've done swimming up the crack Offwidth on pitch 4 wish it stayed hand size |
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17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Daniel Razzino, ash
4
17
45m
lead by
ash
| 230m | |||||
For 180m I was utterly captivated by this amazing line until Dan sent it up a visionary death gully ("no man's land" 18R FA:Dan Razzino 2023) because he was chasing a 4 star FA for the final pitch.
FA aside, this climb is the best trad multi in Australia for sure. Would not feel out of place as a 3 star classic at Tahoe or Yosemite. Don't think I placed a single thumbs down jamb the entire time, total cruise control. |
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 ~18 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Just another classic Angels epic.
Started off mid-morning, this would be my first dose of quality granite crack climbing and I was bloody excited. First and second pitch were incredible. Until I whipped near the top of the second pitch. Clean fall but caught my foot/ankle real bad on the wall. After bringing up my second, I got up to lead pitch 3 and nopeee. Unable to weight my foot much, I mix freed and aided. By pitch 4 I could no longer weight or move my left foot at all. With my partner having never lead on trad before, I had to keep pushing, 1-footed aid-climbing. No layers and just a single headlamp meant we were well into epic territory by the last pitch at 11pm. The slightest pressure on my foot was excruciating, nevertheless, found myself on the last move of the entire climb, mantling a ledge while levering on one foot against a cam, as I stepped up the cam blew out the top of the crack and (Having bumped cams the entire way up) I took the biggest whip I've ever taken and landed back at the belay gently on top of my partner. This was no good for my already sub-par ankle. Managed to get up the top eventually and drag myself around a rock to belay. Rescue entailed with thanks to Josh Street. 3am back to car after many hours of hauling, crawling and piggy backs. Glad I cut my teeth solo on Ozy a couple weeks ago for some Aid training haha. Overall, Had a great time and can't wait to get back. |
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Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 Hard |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Geoff
1
17
50
lead by
Peter Melouney
Nice steep jamming to start which eases off after a few meters. Comfy belay spot.
2
16
40
lead by
Geoff
Jamming continues with a nice slab move left. Semi-hanging belay just before bulge.
3
17
50
lead by
Peter Melouney
Awesome pitch with great jamming and a committing slab move from left crack to right. Bit of a cruxy final few moves as crack thins towards ends of the pitch.
4
17
45
lead by
Peter Melouney
Easy chimney to start. Thrutch level increased at offwidth section. Right crack had a comfy stance slot to regain composure, placed two nuts and equalised and then committed to the top.
5
10
45
lead by
Geoff
Easy to get a bit lost. Glad to have Geoff leading the way out. | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
An epic day out and very special to have climbed it with Geoff Gledhill. Low 20s temp with a light breeze and just over 6 hours car to car.
Gear: singles .3-.75, doubles 1-2, four 3s, two 4s, one 5 and a few larger nuts. Only used one of the 4s and didn't use the 5, but nice to have.
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
1
17
50
2
16
40
3
17
50
4
17
45
5
10
45
| 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 ~18 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Anthony Shilton
2
16
40
lead by
Anthony Shilton
Awkward section early on
3
17
50
lead by
Andrew Connolly
More lovely jamming, a cute step across from crack to another and a difficult finger crack to finish
4
17
45
lead by
Anthony Shilton
Oh the horror.
5
10
45
lead by
Anthony Shilton
A novel dyke section but this one is over after 10m | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A rite of passage for all Victorian climbers. The most sandbagged 17 going around (pitches 3 and 4 specifically). Old school dudes were seriously tough. Quite a lot of type 2 fun though.
Impossible without vast amounts of jamming. Wear long pants and use crack gloves. Ohhh, and try to get someone else to lead pitch 4. 7 hours car to car, got sunburned and massively dehydrated despite taking 6 litres between us. 33 degrees. Gear 0.4 - 5. If you had 10 #3's you could use them all on each of pitches 1, 2 and 3 ... Triple up on 1-3 at a minimum, the rest is luxury. Wires are optional. |
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17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
alyssa smirnov
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
| 190m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
21° day predicted 24hrs before, turned out 27°🥵
Still heaps of fun thrashing through the granite
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Mon 19th Dec 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
450am alarm goes off. I spring out of bed. After 5 hrs gear preparation the day before, we were about to embark on our biggest climbing mission yet! 530 just as we pulled bags over shoulders, a dirtbag mobile rolls up with 2 dirtbags in it. Even before they stop, we see haul bags through the window. An awkward discussion ensued between the 4 of us and we realised once they mentioned their bags were at the bottom that we would not be climbing ozymandias today. Instead we accepted a bribe of 4 mountain goat tinnies and lugged our stuff to the start of angels. Yim walked the haul bag down the gully like it was a toy poodle. I went to fill the water from the creek and dropped the cap into the stream. Fuckn day is cursed. We climbed angels in 4 long pitches which worked quite well. The finger crack finish before the first big ledge gave me the most curry. But plenty of moments provoking some thought. Skipped caligula instead opting to nap in prep for attempt 2 at ozy tomorrow.
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Thu 1st Dec 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Imogen
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wow. Seriously walks the line between type 2 and type 3 fun. Was feeling super into it until entering the marathon that was pitch 3. About 50 metres into the pitch I was feeling some pretty horrendous pain in my feet. The crack thins out and I couldn’t take the pain so I placed a nut and pulled through onto the mantle. It sucked to fail at the very last move but that’s how it goes sometimes haha. Feeling defeated I pulled on a few cams in the off width too. A mega classic. Will no doubt make the journey back to hopefully finish off pitch 3 in proper style
|
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Wed 30th Nov 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
JakeSouthen, Imogen, Yaniv
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Ben Taylor
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This route has everything!
Hand jams thin and loose, fists, hand/fist, off width, tight worm chimney, strange 3D stemming, scary slab traverse, tight finger jams with a crux so tight I could only fit in a pinky.
Most pitches felt much harder than the grade listed. If you can't jam, you won't make it 😂 Next time, bring a #5 (and/or more than two #4's) and more than three #3's. We took five #2, five #1, four green, four purple plus doubles down to .2 and we used it all! Really no need for wires. |
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17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Incredible adventure in the gorge, wonderful jamming everywhere.
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Fri 11th Mar 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with tim | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great day out , a must do for sure
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Wed 9th Mar 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Mitch Lindbeck
| 190m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I lead aid pitch 2 and 4. Start 11.50am. Finish 11pm.
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Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 17th Jan 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sick and painful line
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Fri 7th Jan 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Mon 3rd Jan 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Sat 1st Jan 2022 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Jonah Bellet | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 30th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quotes from Rachael which really sum up her experience:
Would definitely recommend tape - from someone who’s done 2 weeks straight here without tap - it’s worth it! Didn’t live up to the hype for me, but I guess if you’re into that style… (masochists) |
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Wed 29th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best and worst climb I’ve ever done. 10/10 would not recommend.
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
shaun
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Full value 17! I've never had to work so hard on a multi, pretty much sustained climbing the whole way. As echoed by the previous comments make sure you have ankle protection.
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17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Fri 17th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Ryan Siacci
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The megatron of all climbs! The best multipitch adventure ive done in australia! Sustained and quality crack climbing with a little bit of slab to keep you guessing 🙃
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Wed 8th Dec 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 24th Nov 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
This was probably the most physically demanding multi I've done (even though climbing itself is not that hard), simply because you carry a lot of gear and do long pitches (I led all of them:) Felt pretty worked when we got back to the car. Took 11 hours car to car as we lost around 2 hours finding the exit. Great jamming, superb friction, very abrassive rock - glad I didn't bring my new shoes. I had double rack of #.3-#2, 5x#3s, 1x#4, 1x#5 and a couple of big nuts (red, green, purple) - that was quite enough.
Finding the exit was still tricky even with a handwritted map that I found in the comments.
Below is my version for the exit. If you want to keep an adventure factor up - don't read further:)
Start last pitch in the corner crack 3 meters below small tree (straight where you finish downclimbing from the end of 4th pitch - don't walk along the ledge), trend left and you end up on a big big ledge, don't stop here, keep walking across to the left, you'll see a steep clean crack, 1 meter to the left of it is another crack filled with awkward jugs all the way up - climb this (tricky to launch yourself into it). Once you get to the next ledge you can belay in the corner slightly to the right. To exit from there you have to cross 3 meter long slab to the left and climb a short crack in the end of it (alternatively you can probably set an anchor at this crack rather than in the corner). This crack is short but quite steep and has big exposure to the left so I'd suggest ropping up for this and protect the move with #3 or #4, once you go over the other side you can do a simple waist belay for your second. There is a visible trail going straight down for maybe 20m and then up a bit (don't downclimb to the left). At some point to the right there is a subtle scramble up which will end in about 5 meters with a boulder with short horizontal flake, you can use that flake to climb up it. then climb a few easier boulders straight up and you will see a cave/tunnel with a bit of a squeeeze to get in there. Once you emerge on the other side you'll see a well worn trail heading up the gully and all the way to the top. |
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Mon 22nd Nov 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Dmitry Linkov | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
My first experience with such an abrasive granite. Got my foot really stuck several times applying my "normal" jamming techniques. I think i almost destroyed my quite new TC Pros. High ankle shoes or ankle taping is the must, even on the exit! Very adventurous and hard for the grade. The last pitch was the most difficult because you can easily loose the right way and start doing silly things)). The exit is tricky too.
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Dylan Glavas | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Second time round, swapped leads from last time. Awesome again!!
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17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Harrie Van de Linde
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Unreal!!!! Mega climb with bomber jams and thrutch in a sick position. Damn long route, get that jam endurance up. 6 hrs, would br good to finish on Caligula. An Aussie classic
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Fri 16th Apr 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
7 hours car-to-car. Broke pitches up when rope drag got out of hand. Technically an easy route (if you can confidently jam), but physically demanding. Went direct up the offwidth, it was a sufferfest. Worth it for the 150m of glorious jams, and good gear, in an epic position. Escape: just get to the massive dead tree at the top of the buttress. Go lookers left, exposed scramble then bust up steep gully until hiking trail. Easy.
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Tue 6th Apr 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Dean Bailey | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Yeah look, it's a classic no doubt. I just have to come to terms with the fact that there are climbs that I just won't enjoy. Maybe it's the granite, maybe it's the poor technique, maybe it was the gut gripping fear making me want to spew my guts out. 10/10 would destroy my hands again.
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Mon 5th Apr 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
We had a very short weather window so went for this line. Faffed around failing to find the carpark of all things and ended up walking in from the Lake Catani campground.
The first 3/4 of this route was grand, if abrasive, jamming with the odd thrutch. Sharp granite, epic friction and bomber hands most of the way if you reach in deep enough. After the climbing per se finished I now understand we erred by heading right and up, rather than around and into the exit gully/crevasse. Many short, hard, ugly pitches up random wet and vegetated cracks ensued while we tried to find a way down into or over to the exit. At some point it got dark and we continued french freeing up mossy cracks by headtorch. Eventually found a point we could rap into the crevasse, topped out and made it back to Catani to drink wine and lick our wounds before the rain started up again. |
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Mon 22nd Mar 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A top 10 Aussie climb, stellar
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17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Charity Maj | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mega hard on the feet. was not prepared for the pain.
Lead every pitch.
Aided a fair bit of it which made us climb a little too slow to make it out in daylight.
Forgot to bring head torch so had to get the ranger to help us out of the exit scramble.
16hr car to car.
still a classic in my eyes
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Wed 17th Mar 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Keith Davison | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Much harder then it looks. I tried climbing it from pitch 1 and pitch 2 but it was too hard and too brutal on me. I just jumarred my way up to belay my friend.
Never been so good at jumarring in my life lol.
Lost the light and got beknighted. Had to call the ranger for help.
Always bring a jacket/bivy, extra batteries for the head torch and extra water.
16hr car to car. Didn’t die.
Highly recommend suss out the approach there (which we did) and the exit out (which we didn’t)
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Sun 28th Feb 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Dean | 230m | |||||
Tue 23rd Feb 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Oliver | 270m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wanted a tradventure and a tradventure I got. Highlights: the glorious jams up the splitters for the first few pitches. Lowlights: the dirty, rope-draggy last few pitches; faffing due to dropped gear.
Gear: wires, 2x #.3-.75, 3x #1-3, 2x #4, 1x #6. Double 60m ropes just in case we needed to escape. 11h car-to-car (including lunch and messing around on P7)! We'd already hiked the approach via Mushroom Rock down & up the day before and it still took us ~45 minutes. From the base it was about 4h to get to the ledge below the chimney (which was before lunch and any of the real faffing began). We were familiar with the exit from scrambling around the Crevasse the day before too. |
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Thu 28th Jan 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Lead every other pitch, rough re-introduction to crack climbing!
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Tue 19th Jan 2021 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Tomas
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | |||||
The description says it all. Proper fat naming session! Loved some of the unique and 3d style of climbing
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Mon 21st Dec 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
18 17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Tina Andayesh | 230m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th Dec 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Fri 18th Dec 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Ryan Siacci | 230m | |||||
Sun 13th Dec 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Stanislav Likane
| 230m | |||||
So sick!! Epic climb, very consistent throughout and a few thought provoking moves thrown in. Don't think it quite deserves the negative rap that many comments give it. That said, if you're unfamiliar with jamming and/or thrutching, OR if you don't have crack gloves/can't handle severe granite jamming, this is probably one to miss. Not a route to get your L plates! #3 cams will be your best friend... we took 3, would have prefered more.
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17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Dave Burt | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Type 2 fun. A heinous thrutch-fest up flaring wide cracks full of sharp crystals. I don't think I have the crack climbing gene. Climbing shoes hurt a lot. Got lost trying to follow complex instructions to get out. Just go up the big gully, easy
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Wed 9th Dec 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
alex argentov
1
17
50m
2
16
40m
3
17
50m
4
17
45m
5
10
45m
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2nd time up. Recommended rack if you don't wanna run it out too much.
- Set of 5 DMM offset nuts, 3 larger nuts.
- BD cams: 1x.3, 2x.4, 2x.5, 2x.75, 3x1, 3x2, 3x3, 3x4.
- 5 draws, 3x60cm slings, 1x120cm sling
-crack gloves
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Fri 31st Jul 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Another lap in the sunshine. For future reference, a 70m rope will probably get you across the first slab traverse in a single pitch from the ground, and a second pitch would probably get you on top of the pillar before the twin offwidths.
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Mon 30th Mar 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Sat 28th Mar 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 9th Mar 2020 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with nat ger | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Rest on p2 for stuck cam. 6hrs, done as 5 pitches.
Rack: (c4 sizes) Single set nuts Double 0.3-#1 #2*3 #3*5 #4*2 few draws/slings. Quick bit of road rash before driving back to Canberra. |
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Thu 19th Dec 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread (Where Angles Fear to Tread) | 230m | |||||
Sat 14th Dec 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Stuart Wales, Rafal | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Deserving of the status, although old school grading. Split the first 2 pitches into 3, ended pitch 4 after the chimney instead of before. Somehow thrutched the nasty off-width on the final pitch instead of taking the easy scramble to it's left (facepalm).
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Sat 7th Dec 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Bret | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Glorious. I never thought a climb this long could be so consistent. Moving between the crack systems were the highlight, as well as finding the crack rhythm and not having the crack run out one move later! Consider hauling your gear through the chimney pitch if you are seconding, worked well for me. Back at the car by 5pm.
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Fri 29th Nov 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Dave Cook | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What an adventure classic!!!! Cruisy yet engaging the whole way samples of hands, fists, offwidths and chimneyjng along the way, with a technical crux to make things interesting! Enjoyed every moment of the line! Highly recommend this to anyone who likes crack climbing, and my only advice is that stacking hands in the wide sections takes away alot of the thrutch!
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Sun 24th Nov 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pulled on gear, aided up sections, cursed, screamed, yelled and fell off.. surprisingly I didn’t hate all of it.
Pretty tough if you can’t jam all that well, but what an impressive crack, bomber gear all the way, just be ready for some cozy belays on the lower pitches.
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Wed 20th Nov 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Harrie Van de Linde | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 16th Nov 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with zac | 230m | |||||
very nice climb, LOTS of hand jams
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Thu 14th Nov 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with g | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Bloc lead G - Struggled getting the chimney move on ?p2, otherwise clean.
Awesome route, bit rough on the footware, 7ish hours? |
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Sun 27th Oct 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of Australias great routes for sure. Obvious and sustained. Was pretty brutal in the sun and just about wore me down to the bone (was getting sick beforehand)
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Wed 9th Oct 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Another lap.
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Mon 30th Sep 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Matilda Elder | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Big day!
12 hours car to car
Onsight P2 and P4 And Clean second the others
P4 has some 18 type off width moves
Some many jams and some much cam Bumping
I think if you could get to the (possible belay) on P1 in the description of P2 would be nicer.( had big rope drag)
Tape up shirt up socks up and start early
So much satisfaction
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Sun 29th Sep 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Sausage
| 140m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This was a really long but rewarding day. I wasn't sure we could make it but Dan (a.k.a Sausage) had the faith. Pitch three, at the top, had one of the major cruxes, especially if you are not good at thin crack. But I thought that pitch 4 was the hardest by far. Very grateful that Dan was psyched to lead the offwidth. It was burly. I definitely recommend sussing out the approach and the exit unless you are a strong granite, crack climber. Simply because it will save you crucial time on send day.
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Sat 27th Apr 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Scott Godwin | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Bonnie | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very climbing, led most of P1, a rope stretching 60m pitch from the step left to the top of the 3rd, and the offwidth pitch.
Can recommed ankle pro
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17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Dane Evans
| 180m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
terrifying but so worth it. 4 pitches to top of pinnacle, 9 hours car to car. so much of the first two pitches was offwidth for me, which was definitely character-building.
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17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Andrew | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome. Last couple of pitches are a bit scrappy, but the first 175m or so of cracks more than make up for it. Next time I would take a few more #3 cams so I could make the pitches longer. Left the car at sunrise, back around lunchtime. Would have gone faster except I was having so much fun charging up the beautiful crack that I climbed straight past the first slab transition and ended up faffing around with some downclimbing to get back on track.
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Fri 26th Apr 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Luke C, Nikhilesh Sharma | 230m | |||||
Beautiful line, mostly good hands and fist jams, but with some horrendous offwidth sections. Overall a long, painful and brutal climb, type 3 fun for sure! Topping out can be tricky in the dark
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Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
"For fools rushed in where angels fear to tread".
Some advice for future ascentionist:
Time taken: 12 hours car to car Tick type: This route goes way beyond that BS. (onsighted the pitches that were lead) Quality: A character building super duper mega hyper classic Rack used: doubles 0.3 to 0.74, triples 1 - 3, doubles 4 and compulsory set of wires. Use the smallest gear possible to build the belays. Joy factor: Instead of muesli, eat concrete for breakfast. |
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17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Sun 21st Apr 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Rowan Blakers | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 10th Mar 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Blake Fuller | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A bit of an epic. Having never crack climbed outside of the hardrock CBD crack, climbed the first four pitches in shorts and a T-shirt getting shredded on crystals and and almost sobbing with each jam. Weather was beautiful though so was still within the realm of enjoyable suffering. However at hanging belay at the top of the 4th pitch it started raining. Aided our way up the next two pitches with a break in the sheltered belay ledge to cuddle for warmth. Did the final scramble out in the dark arriving at the car at 9:30pm, 11.5 hours after we left it. Still processing my feelings about the whole ordeal. If you’re new to crack climbing like us understand that reaching the top without a thousand yard stare will take good conditions, pain tolerance and a whole lot of psyche. Two hexes, a nut, and an elusive cam free to a good home (strong nut tool skills required).
Massive props to Blake Fuller for leading the whole thing and handling some seriously committing climbing in the rain.
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Mon 25th Feb 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Michael Hallang | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This is and will hopefully remain my biggest failure to be logged on thecrag More than 75% of the whole route is an offwidth if you have small hands and feets(?) and I have neither the endurance/technique/pain tolerance to thrutch my ass up 200m. Had 3 cramps by the end of P2 and just gave up!
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Sat 23rd Feb 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Timmy Wong | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a great adventure ramble. Happy to lead every pitch with super consistent pitches.
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Mon 18th Feb 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Harry Kadi
| 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Probably the best long, easy, crack multipitch in Australia! Such wildly good and varied jamming on every pitch, from ring locks all the way to offwidthing and tight chimneys at the top. We did most of it in approach shoes but there is one section on pitch three and pretty much all of pitch four where climbing shoes makes life much easier. Our rack was double cams from 0.3 to 3 with a single 4 and two extra 2s. This was more than enough gear and in reality you could probably just have singles from 0.3 to 0.5. We also had nuts but only placed a few to justify our having brought them.
In regards to taping, it is hugely unnecessary on this climb. The route is so slabby that you rarely have to weight your jams in any meaningful way, so leave the tape or gloves at home and use it as an opportunity to improve on your technique. All up a completely excellent experience with the light rain that flavoured the day keeping the scorching sun away. |
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17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Will Vidler | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So so good. Climbed in 5 pitches that were all close to 50m, mostly in my TX4 approach shoes and no tape or gloves.
Perfect jams, some intriguing slabs, burly off widths and strange chimneying... This route has it all!! Such a good adventure with minimal rattle (all the gear is excellent) and some very light rain that hung around all day that was much preferable to the full sun the route usually gets! |
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Thu 14th Feb 2019 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Retreated after not being able to do the start.
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Tue 27th Nov 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with lara | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | |||||
Sat 26th May 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread
- with
Will Spinelli
2
lead by
Nick McAuley
3
lead by
Will Spinelli
4
lead by
Nick McAuley
5
lead by
Will Spinelli
6
lead by
Nick McAuley
7
lead by
Will Spinelli
8
| 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Unreal day, physically tough.
10 hours from car to car.
Preparation-
Wrap hands
Would recommend taking hiking boots for the 2nd 3rd and 4 pitch. Would be the perfect size for foot jamming.
First pitch was by far the hardest, so if you can get through that you should be good to go.
Know what your in for, if your not a crack climber you in for a big and painful day and want to make sure you have enough time.
If you are a crack climber enjoy what of the best crack climbs Buffalo has to offer.
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Fri 25th May 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Nick McAuley | 230m | ★ Good | ||||
First time fist jamming, watched videos on how to jam and make tape glove the night before which helped a lot. Can never have enough tape with that sort of jamming. Was a fun, gruelling climb with a lot of pain but still worth it.
Hardest pitch was the first one, gets somewhat easier after that but time gets away on you quickly.
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Sun 6th May 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Mark, Bobor | 230m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Three fools rush in where angels fear to tread...Unsurprising didn't even make it to P3 being 3 hours behind schedule and forgot one of the #3 cam in the car First pitch was a burly af wide-fist/offwidth crack that was still wet from previous rain...Will be back next season!
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Sat 31st Mar 2018 - Mount Buffalo | |||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Louis | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Did it in 6 pitches, I lead 1, 3, 5. Took a pretty hefty rack which was pretty thankful for, so didn't have to bump cams continuously Such a great route, and the fact that it is so sustained at the grade for the entire length makes it absolutely mega classic. Something for everyone. Found the wide fists a bit annoying as my shoes kept getting stuck in the crack! The slab transfers were excellent and the finger crack crux was pretty desperate on second. The chimney/offwidth pitch was definitely intimidating as not usually my style but somehow managed to onsight it, and realised what the topo meant by 'slap arete' Glorious day out.
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